"Your earlier measurements suggest that the CDI is AC powered. Thus, all energy to run the CDI comes from a turning engine. If the engine is stopped (not turning) then there is no power source to the CDI and so there can be no output of any kind. This is an important question: Did you see this "power" on the yellow-black wire (while shorting the green wire to ground) while the engine was stopped, or did this happen while the engine was being cranked with the starter? If you saw this with the engine stopped then you have made a measurement error somewhere. It simply cannot be. If you saw this with the engine being cranked with the starter, then the next question is: Do you get a spark while doing this?
"

No I didn't see this when the engine is stopped, only while cranking.

 

Good. Its nice when things make sense.

Try doing this again and see it you get spark. If you do then this suggest that it is the trigger circuitry that is not working (blue and white wire).

 

Actually it's around midnight here, I will check this tomorrow :P

And I have some question , can I check if the spark plug is getting some power without the spark plug, on the yellow and black wire for example.

It's because i'm not sure if my spark plug still good. I will change it tomorrow if necessary.

For the new performance cdi and the original cdi they will arrive soon probably in the middle of the next week. I almost sure the new cdi is the problem, In last fall I try to start my atv with the perf. cdi and with the original ( before I destroyed it with the lawnmower ... haha) and the atv start easily with the original.. After this I ordered a new cdi under warranty. But the atv never started. I cannot believe I got 2 broken cdi. I will check for the last time tomorrow, otherwise I will wait for the new cdi and give you some feedback :P

 

Good question, but a tough one. The problem is that on a working ignition system the voltages here are really high (up to 350 volts peak at fast running engine speeds), and are really narrow pulses with long periods of silence (0 volts) in between. Meters are not designed for this, and different meters measure differently.

On your analog meter I would expect that if you are getting ignition pulses from the CDI you would see ticks in the meter movement at roughly 10 ticks per second. This is because the cranking speed is about 600 RPM which equates to 10 RPS (revolutions per second). How high those tick go depends on how fast your meter movement is. Who knows...

Other digital meters take a snapshot of the voltage at various times and report that. On these style meters you would get mostly zero readings (during the mostly silent period) with random numbers interspersed within them. The random numbers are when the meter just happens to catch all (or part) of the very narrow ignition pulse(s), and then applies some unknown filter to it on the way to the meter display.

Other meters do it differently still.

Worse, there are different CDI designs as well - with substantially different output waveforms between them. And, you have a known non-standard CDI that you are trying to measure.

If you measure absolutely nothing with your meter at the ignition coil primary then that is perhaps a clue. But if you get something, and you are trying determine if it is correct, that is a total guess.

 

I am having this problem right now with my 2008 beast. has a resolution been found other then a gas can and a match ???

 

Alright, so today I did some tests that lyn instructed giodon to do. I got some very different numbers then what is being displayed here on this site. I was not getting 56VAC from my ignition power, but 44.56VAC. I originally thought it was my coil that was pooched but when i test across it i get 0.4 ohms and (from my good friend google) I was told this was normal for an ATV coil. I also have gotten 0's across the power telling me it is an AC unit.

I am not getting ANY spark at all. Not even the slightest glimpse. I ust purchased the quad and I have done nothing but mess about with the connections, taped them up and traced everything insuring they are connected and not broken. I have not replaced any parts yet. I dont have a spare 200 Gio hanging around like Don does so I cant exactly just swap out parts to trouble shoot. With my luck I will replace every stitch of wire and electrical component just to find out that the kill switch was on the whole time. I would rather not drop money into this bike that i dont have too. I do however at some point, intend to upgrade CDI, COIL, CARB, SHOCKS and plastics. I have the cammo grey and black and I wont be caught dead riding it.

I would just like to know some more ideas and what I can do to trace or eliminate items, such as coil, cdi, stator.. etc

Does anyone know the correct measurement I should get across a factory coil ?

Does anyone know from information I have already stated, where I should be focusing ?

Thanks for any help you may offer, in advance.

CoryMac
2008 GIO BEAST 200cc

 

My responses are embedded in Blue:

You did some of the tests, but there are more tests to do.

1) Unplug the CDI. Set all of you kill switches to the run position. Turn on the ignition, but leave the engine stopped. Measure the kill switch pin resistance in the wiring harness to the ground pin in the same connector set. Use something like 20K ohms scale. You should infinite resistance (open). This is the same reading as when the meter leads are not connected to anything. Turn on a kill switch and the resistance should go to zero ohms.

2) Set your meter to the 2K ohms scale. Measure the resistance of the trigger pin in the wiring harness to the ground pin. You should read something like 150 ohms (0.150K Ohms).

3) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale possible. Measure the AC voltage on the Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 0.3 to 0.4 volts AC.

4) Plug the CDI back in. Measure the AC voltage from the ignition coil pin to ground (use the 20 volt AC scale) while cranking the engine. You should see mostly zero readings with occasional random values interspersed. What do you see?

 

1) open

2) 145

3) 0.25

4) it goes from 10 to 16 mV rapidly

hope this helps me help you help me... thnaks Lynn !

 

alright. i got spark. sort of.

i took all my plastics off because i intend to paint it all flat black. i had my 2 year old son out there with me and he was pretending to fix the bike with his plastic tools. i don't know for sure but i may have a mechanic in the works here and a dang good one too because whatever he touched, got me spark.

now, i think my plug may be bad. when i put it in the bike it fired right away and started and then dies right away. i took my plug out, no spark. i waited about 10 minutes, and it began to spark again. then it started and stalled again. Is this the happenings of a foul plug ?

or,

could there be something potentially wrong with something else ?

thank you for all your help and look forward to chatting with you again about your thoughts.

cheers,

CoryMac

 

2 DR8EA plugs (bike came with DR8ES) for 10 bucks.... fired right up like it was nobodys business. Any problem using these plugs in this bike and if so, what is everyone else using ?

Now iam looking for a wiring diagram for this bike... the wiring on this is really strange... soldered wires everywhere. everything is working, but as a preventative maitenance task i plan to shrink wrap the wiring harness so before i go trace all the wires and write it down iam gonna be lazy and ask if this has been done. if not..... i will do it and post a diagram.


I also intend to paint the plastics. any good ideas for method and paint types for these plastics. all advice generously given will be generously accepted.


cheers,

CoryMac