1) Engine problems.. If your quad wont run..post in here.

meercat wont start

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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 07:05 AM
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Default meercat wont start

i recently got this quad off a friend as she said it was not going when she gave me it she said it had a spark but when i tryed it it has none i have joined the wires at the brake lever together and also at the back cut off together and wired throw the remote cut off but still not getting a spark i have not striped the front fender off yet as i thot the problem lay with the remote cut off but as i have wired it thro it can not be this is they any bits under the key fob that could be causing this and also it will not turn over on the button that you use to start it had to join the wires on the solenoid to get it to turn over any ideas out there i was thinking off just getting a new wiring loom but do not no where ti get one for it or if there was simply answer i prob would not bother oh it is a 50cc meercat about 4 years old
 
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cj1175
... i have joined the wires at the brake lever together and also at the back cut off together...........
This is incorrect. The back cut off switch (lanyard kill switch) needs to have the two wires *disconnected* to get spark. Shorting those two wire together kills the spark.

Originally Posted by cj1175
...and wired throw the remote cut off but still not getting a spark ...
I'm confused here. To disable the remote module you simply unplug it. I'm not understanding this wiring through the remote cutoff bit, but suspect this new wiring may be partly responsible for your problems.

Originally Posted by cj1175
...it will not turn over on the button that you use to start it had to join the wires on the solenoid to get it to turn over any ideas out there i was thinking off just getting a new wiring loom but do not no where ti get one for it or if there was simply answer i prob would not bother oh it is a 50cc meercat about 4 years old
Get the spark going first, then we'll tackle the start button problem. I wouldn't buy a new wring harness. These problems sound like they will easy to solve.

After you undo the short at the rear lanyard kill switch, and remove the new wiring to 'bypass' the remote, do the following:

Turn on the ignition and set you handlebar kill switch to the run position. Disconnect the CDI and use a meter to measure the kill switch pin resistance in the harness (loom) to ground. You should see infinite ohms. Turn off the ignition and you should see zero ohms. What you are doing is veryfying that the kill switch wiring is correct. Kill switch wiring is the most common cause of no spark problems.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 03:53 PM
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Default Meecat

Thank you for your quick response i will try that and get back to u but there is one bit i do not follow what is the cdi i no this mite be a stupid question but everybody keeps quoting this and i do not no what it is sorry
 
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 10:25 PM
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The CDI is a small relay type box that connects the wires from the stator to the coil and the kill/ignition switches. It is what relays the power from the ignition switch all the way to the plug to put it simply. Yours will either have 4 wires or 5. Follow the power wire from the coil backwards and you will reach the CDI.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 07:26 AM
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just diconnected the cut off at the back of the bike and disconnected the the by pass that i done but now i cant get the the bike to turn over the last time that i got it to turn over was with the putting the two wires together on the solenoid and then it turned over now that does not work either i had a jump set on it so it was not a case off the batt not haveing eough charge very confused now the bike did not ever turn over with the button any way
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cj1175
just diconnected the cut off at the back of the bike and disconnected the the by pass that i done but now i cant get the the bike to turn over the last time that i got it to turn over was with the putting the two wires together on the solenoid and then it turned over now that does not work either i had a jump set on it so it was not a case off the batt not haveing eough charge very confused now the bike did not ever turn over with the button any way
If you follow the wiring from the positive battery terminal to the starter solenoid and on to the starter motor, and then from the frame back to the negative battery terminal, you will see that when you short the two posts together on the starter solenoid you are hooking the the quad battery directly to the starter motor. If you apply steady 12 volts to the starter motor then it should turn. Thus there are three possibilities:

1) You aren't applying 12 volts to the starter: This could be due to a bad connection anywhere in the path from the battery to the starter, or back through the ground return. Or the battery just can't put out enough current to hold up the 12 volts on its output terminals (battery is bad or dead). Use a meter to measure the voltage right at the starter motor input post to the starter motor frame while attempting to crank (using your short method). Do you have 12 volts? Repeat the same test while measuring the battery voltage right on the battery terminals. Do you have 12 volts here while attempting to crank the starter motor?

2) Your starter motor is bad: If you have 12 volts right on the starter motor input terminal to the starter motor case then your starter motor is bad or...

3) The engine is frozen and can't turn: This is the least likely of the the three possibilities. You can try to turn the engine manually with a wrench after removing a side cover to see if this is the problem. But I'd use the meter tests first They are the easiest and the most likely to point at the the problem.
 
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