110cc Engine wiring help, please
#1
110cc Engine wiring help, please
I just bought a new engine to replace one that the chain cover broke on and took out part of the crankcase, i.e hole in crankcase.
Anyway the wiring on the new engine is different colors than the old wiring and I'm not sure how to wire it up. Here is what I have
Engine Wiring
Green, Blue/White stripe, Black/Red stripe, Yellow, Pink
Frame side
Green, Red/Black stripe, Yellow, White, Blue/White stripe
I know green goes to green because the connectors are reversed from the other 4.
Thanks in advance!
Anyway the wiring on the new engine is different colors than the old wiring and I'm not sure how to wire it up. Here is what I have
Engine Wiring
Green, Blue/White stripe, Black/Red stripe, Yellow, Pink
Frame side
Green, Red/Black stripe, Yellow, White, Blue/White stripe
I know green goes to green because the connectors are reversed from the other 4.
Thanks in advance!
#2
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So if we match green to green (ground), and blue/white to blue/white (ignition trigger), that leaves only three wires left.
I would wire up the black/red to the red/black (AC Ignition Power I think). Leave the other two disconnected for now.
Try to start up the quad. Does it start up? If not, do you have spark?
If it starts up and runs then hook up yellow to yellow, and pink to white (battery charge windings).
Now start up the quad, and with the headlights off measure the DC voltage on the battery with the engine running at a medium fast clip. You should measure 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC. If it does then you are all set up.
If your quad runs and you have the correct battery voltage at speed then you stator (the wires coming out of the engine) are wired correctly and working.
I would wire up the black/red to the red/black (AC Ignition Power I think). Leave the other two disconnected for now.
Try to start up the quad. Does it start up? If not, do you have spark?
If it starts up and runs then hook up yellow to yellow, and pink to white (battery charge windings).
Now start up the quad, and with the headlights off measure the DC voltage on the battery with the engine running at a medium fast clip. You should measure 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC. If it does then you are all set up.
If your quad runs and you have the correct battery voltage at speed then you stator (the wires coming out of the engine) are wired correctly and working.
#4
Well I got it wired up and even a test run. Was Green to Green, Red/Black to Black/Red, Blue/White to Blue/White, Yellow to Yellow and Pink to White. While going back together with it 3 of the 4 wires on the ignition switch so I solder then back on and I think I got the out of order.
Anyway, it blew the fuse on the small red wire at the battery. I unplugged the ignition switch and replaced the fuse and now I have a no spark issue. I wonder if I could have burned out the CDI? Guess I need to pull it out and test it.
Anyway, it blew the fuse on the small red wire at the battery. I unplugged the ignition switch and replaced the fuse and now I have a no spark issue. I wonder if I could have burned out the CDI? Guess I need to pull it out and test it.
#5
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No, the CDI runs off its own high voltage AC power from the stator. It is not connected to the 12 volt power at all. Both 12 volts and ground go to you ignition switch, so if it was miswired that is probably whow you blew the fuse. If your fuse was the proper size (7 amp) then you probably didn't hurt anything. If you had a 30 amp fuse then you may have damaged the ignition switch and/or one of your kill switches.
Unplug the kill switch pin at your CDI. Use a small screwdriver to pop out the pin from the connector housing. Plug the CDI back in (minus the kill switch wire) and see if you have spark.
If no spark then unplug the CDI. Use a meter to measure the resistance of the AC ignition power pin in the wiring harness to the ground pin in the same connector.
Measure the resistance of the Timing/Trigger pin to the ground pin.
What resistance do you measure for each of these two pins?
What this measurement tells us is whther you have the AC ignition power winding hooked up correctly, and if the CDI trigger widing in the stator is hooked properly as well.
Unplug the kill switch pin at your CDI. Use a small screwdriver to pop out the pin from the connector housing. Plug the CDI back in (minus the kill switch wire) and see if you have spark.
If no spark then unplug the CDI. Use a meter to measure the resistance of the AC ignition power pin in the wiring harness to the ground pin in the same connector.
Measure the resistance of the Timing/Trigger pin to the ground pin.
What resistance do you measure for each of these two pins?
What this measurement tells us is whther you have the AC ignition power winding hooked up correctly, and if the CDI trigger widing in the stator is hooked properly as well.
#6
#7
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More importantly, unplug the ignition switch and measure the wires going into the switch:
1) With the ignition switch off the green and black/white wires shoud be connected together. The red and black wires should be open (disconnected).
2) With the ignition switch on the green and black/white wires shoud be open (disconnected). The red and black wires should be connected together.
1) With the ignition switch off the green and black/white wires shoud be connected together. The red and black wires should be open (disconnected).
2) With the ignition switch on the green and black/white wires shoud be open (disconnected). The red and black wires should be connected together.
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#8
Well the ignition switch must be wired wrong or burnt out because the reading are not correct for the wires. I'll have to recheck it again paying closer attention because I was more focused on getting the ATV running.
I broke the kill switch wire from the connector trying to get it out so I'll have to figure out how to fix that, but with the Kill switch wire disconnected it runs.
Any tips on diagnosing the kill switch issue?
I know I have one on the brake lever, one in the multi function switch ( start, lights, run/stop), tether and the remote. When I bought the bike the tether cap was missing so I removed it and jumpered the wires at the connector, but other than that, no changes.
I broke the kill switch wire from the connector trying to get it out so I'll have to figure out how to fix that, but with the Kill switch wire disconnected it runs.
Any tips on diagnosing the kill switch issue?
I know I have one on the brake lever, one in the multi function switch ( start, lights, run/stop), tether and the remote. When I bought the bike the tether cap was missing so I removed it and jumpered the wires at the connector, but other than that, no changes.
#9
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...Any tips on diagnosing the kill switch issue?
I know I have one on the brake lever, one in the multi function switch ( start, lights, run/stop), tether and the remote. When I bought the bike the tether cap was missing so I removed it and jumpered the wires at the connector, but other than that, no changes.
I know I have one on the brake lever, one in the multi function switch ( start, lights, run/stop), tether and the remote. When I bought the bike the tether cap was missing so I removed it and jumpered the wires at the connector, but other than that, no changes.
So to disable your tether kill switch simply unplug the wires at the connector and let them hang free.
#10