And it does crank over with polarity corrected but I have a lot of wires cut and twisted all seem to be related to key switch and run/off/start switch maybe safety switch too. Cdi and magneto wires looked untouched. I have no idea what needs power for the ignition to work or is go that route to try to get it to fire.

 

Black with Red stripe: Classic color for AC ignition power. And this wire goes between the CDI and the stator so it fits.

White with Red stripe: I suspect this is the Timing trigger wire from the stator to the CDI

Black with white stripe: Classic color for kill switch wiring.

Black: Probably ground.

Orange: Probably the igntion coil

White, and Yellow with White stripe: Probably battery charge winding on stator - nothing to do with spark.

1) Unplug the CDI. Set your meter to measure ohms. Measure the resistance of the Black with Red stripe wire in the CDI connector to ground. What resistance do you measure?

2) Measure the resistance of the White with red stripe wire resistance to ground at the CDI connector. What do you measure?

3) Measure the black wire resistance to ground. It should be zero ohms since I suspect it is the ground wire to the CDI.

4) Measure the resistance of the orange wire to ground. What do you measure?

5) Set all your kill switches to the run position. Turn the ignition switch on. Measure the resistance of the black with white stripe wire to ground. What do you measure?

What I am trying to find out from the above resistances is to determine whether I've got the pin functions right. These tests may also uncover some problems. The next step after all the above stuff is resolved will be to measure voltage while cranking.

 

Il test everything tomorrow when I get home from work. ( I have night school tonight ) kill switches are not hooked up and can't quite figure put how they were supposed to be hooked up.

 

Red/white to ground .465
Bkack/red to grnd .736
Black to ground 0
Orange to ground 0

No change in off position on run switch

 

Also nominee rigged a pushbutton straight to starter so I'm assuming the relay and or factory start button is messed up. Looked like it had been setup like that for awhile.

 

Readings are ohms on the 2k scale.

 

It looks like the wire functions are identified OK.

You didn't report the resistance of the black/white wire to ground with ignition on and kill switches in the run position. This is a very important measurement. This could very well explain your no spark problem, or eliminate the kill switch circuitry as a cause. You *must* do this test.

In addition:

1) Unplug the CDI. Set your meter to measure AC volts. Measure the Black/red wire AC voltage to ground while cranking the engine. You should measure somewhere from 35 to 80 volts AC. What do you measure?

2) Measure the Red/White AC voltage to ground while cranking the engine. This will be a small voltage so set your meter to the lowest AC scale you have. What do you measure? I'm expecting something like 0.2 to 0.4 volts AC (but not zero volts).

 

A switch from the battery positive terminal straight to the starter motor? Unless this is a very big switch this will not last for long. Starters draw about 35 amps, and the switch would need to be able to handle this large amount of current. The wires to and from the switch would also have to be big - like 8 or 10 gauge minimum.

The purpose of the starter solenoid is to allow puny little switches to control a relay that switches the starter motor to the battery.

 

It is a heavy switch with 12 gauge wire. Why they rigged it up I have no idea!

 

So the black with white stripe would be grounded in the off position? Sorry I forgot to check that one. I will get it when I get home this afternoon.