No continuity between the black and green wire and ground. Switch on or off

 

Green?

Where did a wire with green come into the picture?

 

Black with white stripe. Stupid auto correct on my phone messed it up!

 

OK, we're still on the same page .

If BWBuer is correct, and you can wire in a generic chinese 5 pin CDI, then this wire being open (no continuity) allows spark. Shorting this wire to ground would disable spark. Some other quads have kill switches that work the opposite (Etons for example). Shorting the kill switch wire to ground enables spark, and leaving it open kills spark.

I have no reason to doubt BWBuer (his posts seem very credible) but why not try shorting the kill switch wire to ground and see if you get spark. It is easy to do, and even if it doesn't start sparks to happen, at least it is a possibility that has been eliminated. I also note that the wiring diagram from Preed that I gave links to earlier shows the Eton style kill switch where the kill switch wire need to be grounded to enable spark (opposite the generic style chinese CDI). Wiring diagrams are notoriously filled with glaring errors, so they should be taken with a grain of salt. But data is data, and sometimes you can put two and two together....

Else we are back to measuring the AC Ignition power and the timing trigger voltages as outlined earlier.

 

Black with white stripe. Stupid auto correct on my phone messed it up!

 

Black/red wire 40v AC

Red/white wire .2v AC

both tests done with no battery just a charger hooked to it so probably a little lower than actual reading, Still in the range you gave me.

Does this indicate that my stator works?

How can i test the coil?

How can i test the CDI?

 

I will try grounding the black wire with white stripe when I get home.

 

Both those voltages seem good. But remember that we are comparing a Monsoon unknown ignition to what one would expect for a generic chinese. But the fact that they match indicates with good probability that the two systems are similar, and that your stator is working.

Testing the CDI basically involves making sure the CDI inputs (AC power and trigger signals, as per the previous paragraph) are OK, making sure the kill switch wiring is set in the "run" position. Once the inputs are OK, then use a meter to see if any voltage spikes (spark events) can be captured at the CDI output which is going to the ignition coil primary. If you have all inputs working but no output then the CDI is suspect.

Ignition coils can be partially tested with a meter. You can measure the primary resistance to ground (about 0.4 ohms). You can measure the secondary resistance from the spark plug wire to ground (about 10 or 20 ohms, or 8000 ohms depending on whether or not there is a resistor in the output lead) It should not measure open. But after that, you really cannot measure the coil other than replacing it. There are several failure modes that a meter cannot detect - such as a shorted turn in the secondary, or a high voltage breakdown issue in the secondary winding. But again, there is no point in changing the coil until the CDI is working (inputs are OK and the CDI is putting voltage spikes on the CDI output pin).

 

I didn't get to try shorting the black wire with white stripe last night but will when I get home. Also I will check for output voltage on cdi (orange wire runs to coil)

 

.02 ohhms primary to ground
NO continuity spark plug wire to ground

Voltage spikes when cranking from Orange wire at coil