More details please...

#1 asked you to set switches and unplug the CDI. It did not ask for a measurement. Yet you got 0.8 something .

Did you mean 0.8 ohms on #2? But be specific. Put down all the digits that you get on the meter and then tell what scale you were on. Where was the **** on the meter set?

What does "I'm not getting anything on #3" mean? Did you get 0.0 volts AC? That is something, and important data. Again put down all the digits the meter reads, and the **** setting too. I need to know what scale you are on in order to interpret the data.

 

The brake switch is the most common cause for the start button not working. You can test the brake switch by looking at the brake light. If the brake light is on when you apply the brake then your problem is elsewhere other than the switch. If the light doesn't work then the brake switch is even more likely to be the cause.

 

I'm not getting any reading on the ac setting. Vac-200

am I doing something wrong

 

By "not getting any reading" I assume that you mean you getting 0.0 volts AC. Am I right?

Is 200 Volts AC the lowest AC scale you have? Something like 2 volts AC or 20 volts AC would be much better. Some meters don't go lower than 200 volts AC. If that's all you have then it is kind of marginal whether you could measure the trigger signal. I have a couple harbor freight $3.00 meters wher the lowest AC scale is 200 volts. One measures 0.1 volts for the trigger voltage, and the other measures 0.2 volts on my quad. Note they don't read zero. Is there any way you could get another meter with lower AC voltage scales?

What about the resistance descrepancy? That is another important data point. What is the resistance of the trigger pin to ground? (Test # 2). You are looking for approximately 150 ohms. If you get something closer to zero ohms that is significant.

These two tests are related. One reinforces the other. Information is key, and you are only answering half the questions...

 

I believe I know the problem. I think the stator is corroded. I ordered the tool to remove the stator. I will let you know what I find.

 

Wow. I don't know why you would want to do this. The stator can be *completely* tested on the quad with a meter in about 3 minutes. Once you remove it you cannot test it. All you can do is visually look at it. Maybe you will see a problem, but more likely you won't. Then what?

Remember you have a DC powered CDI. There is no ignition power winding inside your stator under the flywheel (or if there is it is not being used). There is only the battery charge winding which has absolutely nothing to do with your ignition circuitry.

There is a trigger pickup coil outside the flywheel which could cause a "no spark" problem. But again this can be completely tested with a meter while it is mounted on the quad. If you do decide to do things the hard way then when you have it apart look at the trigger coil to see if it has rust or magnetic debris lodged in the trigger winding. The trigger pickup coil has an internal embedded magnet that will attract steel bits and rust and degrade the trigger signal (which again can be measured with a meter).

I'm still wondering about your resistance measurement of 0.8 something or other. If you're measuring 0.8 ohms, and not 0.8K Ohms (800 ohms), and not 0.8M ohms (800,000 ohms), then I would bet on you having kill switch issues rather than stator issues. Many DC powered CDIs have the kill switch(es) short the trigger wire to ground to kill the spark. A meter will tell you that, but you have to do the tests .

 

the pick up as well as mark on the flywheel was rusted. i cleaned it up and still no spark. after i cleaned it up i pulled the pick up off and found the wire was split. i guess due to being kinked for years. i fixed the wire but still no spark. based on how it looked i decided to pull the staror...

here is what i found.
should i try and clean up the rust or just replace?
does it matter that the fly wheel is rusted on the inside?

 

 

 

It does look pretty crusty in there. There's no way to tell if the stator is working or not now. You can clean up the rust and put it back together and measure it to see if it works, or replace it since you have it apart anyway. It is kind of a judgement call...

The six stator coils (that sit inside the flywheel) are all battery charge coils. They have nothing to do with spark. Nothing you do to them or to the the inside of the flywheel is going to fix your no spark problem.

The pick up coil is another story. It can prevent spark. But now that the stator is disassembled it too cannot be completely tested. You said you fixed a split wire? What exactly did you do? Was it shorted to ground?

Also, keep in mind that the stator area is a high temperature environment. So whatever fixes you did must be able to withstand a lot of heat. In other words electrical tape won't cut it . Shrink tubing is OK, as is neutral curing silicone rubber (Dow Corning 3145 for example)