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110cc automatic clutch adjustment

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Old 04-08-2011, 12:20 PM
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Default 110cc automatic clutch adjustment

I want to increase the rpm that the clutch will grab at.Following the manual and youtube instructions I cant get the adjustment screw to be where I want it. After removing the locknut I can push the threaded ajustment screw in and out of the side of the engine? Should it not be threaded in the side case of the engine?

What am I doing wrong? or is something broken?
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:47 AM
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Default automatic transmission continued

I forgot to mention-I raised the rear end up on a jack,started the engine up on idle speed,removed the locknut from the clutch adjustment screw and no matter if I pushed the setscrew in all the way or let it return back out all the way,the rear axle still would still want to turn.

Why,on idle speed would the clutch be engaging enough to turn the wheels no matter what position the adjustment screw is in?
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by lotus7
I forgot to mention-I raised the rear end up on a jack,started the engine up on idle speed,removed the locknut from the clutch adjustment screw and no matter if I pushed the setscrew in all the way or let it return back out all the way,the rear axle still would still want to turn.

Why,on idle speed would the clutch be engaging enough to turn the wheels no matter what position the adjustment screw is in?
i would think it's turning because you have no weight/restriction/friction resistance on the axle to stop it if you have it jacked up and not bound to the ground.. freewheel mode i reckon.
 
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Old 04-14-2011, 07:19 PM
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With many of the Chinese full autos, the "adjustment" screw has no relative effect on clutch adjustment. Depending on your clutch design, it may be working for you just as it was intended.
 
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:32 PM
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Sounds about right LOLJust another screw you can turn to oblivion and does nothing
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:40 PM
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Well.. hey. Look at the positives. Atleast it doesn't twist apart like bubble gum like some of the hardware will!
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 02:30 PM
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Default make her weigh more.

My experience moving kids of all levels up a size or class in machine is because the former machine is under powered, under clutched, under sized, and under sprung for their current weight, and experience. But..............to go up 10cc is impractical, where 75-100 cc always seems not over powered, but over sprung for their weight. A 75 lb kid just won't settle 100 lb springs. But in order to grow into it, you don't wanna reconstruct mounts just to reverse it months later, or spend more money on shocks or tunning, especially for a Chinese unit. So why not make the rider heavier???? Be suprized what 25 - 35 lb of balast split and hung from grab bar, and between a arms will due. Not knocking the whole cut chop glue ideas, but personally bolt on today, unbolt in a season to keep rider and machine balanced is quicker safer and avoids voiding what little warranty it may have??? FOOD FOR THOUGHT FELLAS .
 
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Old 05-09-2016, 09:47 AM
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I would rater get softer shocks/springs then make a kid have to deal with the extra weight of the machine. Increasing the weight of the machine is dangerous to the kid. their is a reason they make the kids machines lighter. For shocks i found a set of a bigger machine had a much softer spring rate..
 
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