Originally Posted by LynnEdwards

I assume you mean 2-3 mm (2-3 cm is roughly 1 inch). 2-3 mm means the problem isn't caused by a good solid short to ground or else the fuse element would have been vaporized and deposited on the inside of the glass envelope. Something has to drawing just a little too much current (and therefor something has to be getting really hot since 120 watts of power are being consumed), or there is an intermittent short where a wire is just brushing up with ground and is intermittent.

In an earlier post you said:



What exactly does "do the thing whens its in netral and like its giving up " mean? Does your quad do this everytime just before the fuse blows? Also could you please verify that the last fuse blew with the regulator unplugged?

Is your fuse holder one that allows you to watch the fuse while it is hooked up? If so watch the fuse after you start the quad. Does it bend in the middle (indicating it is close to the fuse current limit)?

Does the fuse blow only when the quad is in motion (with all the bumping and vibrating)? Conversely does the fuse never blow when you are sitting still with the engine idling?

I would next unplug everything that will unplug after the quad is started without stopping the engine. Things like headlights, taillights, brake switches, etc. See if you can get the quad to run without fuses blowing. If you can then plug things back in one at a time.

Also I would start up the quad and wiggle and tug on every connector and cable. See if you can move something around that blows the fuse. In particular pay attention to the regulator connector/cabling and the ignition switch area.

I don't have a wiring diagram for a 150cc eton viper. Do you know if your CDI is DC powered ot AC powered?

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards

I assume you mean 2-3 mm (2-3 cm is roughly 1 inch). 2-3 mm means the problem isn't caused by a good solid short to ground or else the fuse element would have been vaporized and deposited on the inside of the glass envelope. Something has to drawing just a little too much current (and therefor something has to be getting really hot since 120 watts of power are being consumed), or there is an intermittent short where a wire is just brushing up with ground and is intermittent.

In an earlier post you said:



What exactly does "do the thing whens its in netral and like its giving up " mean? Does your quad do this everytime just before the fuse blows? Also could you please verify that the last fuse blew with the regulator unplugged?

Is your fuse holder one that allows you to watch the fuse while it is hooked up? If so watch the fuse after you start the quad. Does it bend in the middle (indicating it is close to the fuse current limit)?

Does the fuse blow only when the quad is in motion (with all the bumping and vibrating)? Conversely does the fuse never blow when you are sitting still with the engine idling?

I would next unplug everything that will unplug after the quad is started without stopping the engine. Things like headlights, taillights, brake switches, etc. See if you can get the quad to run without fuses blowing. If you can then plug things back in one at a time.

Also I would start up the quad and wiggle and tug on every connector and cable. See if you can move something around that blows the fuse. In particular pay attention to the regulator connector/cabling and the ignition switch area.

I don't have a wiring diagram for a 150cc eton viper. Do you know if your CDI is DC powered ot AC powered?

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards

What size is the fuse?

Try unplugging the regulator and see if it stops blowing the fuse. You can run without the regulator for long enough to test this. If it stops the fuse blowing then your regulator is bad.

I've not heard of a 150cc viper. Are you sure it is not a 50cc viper?