Couldn't find anything to identify make or model other then the engine code which is 7VCOX.250AM5. I really hope the pictures will help.

Sorry they aren't the best, had to take them with my phone





Right now, I can't seem to get it to run. It will crank but I'm not getting any spark. I've found a diagram for a Hensim ATV and how to check the CDI from a post on the site so I hope this will help me trace it issue.

Thanks again and I hope to have this thing up and running in time for Christmas...my girls would love it.

 

I'm no expert on these things, sort of new to them but it sure looks like a Kuzuma Falcon to me. I have a 150 that looks just like it. Same foot rest, seat and body. The A arms and front end look the same also. My engine is different as it is a automatic. Yours has a foot shifter so I guess it's semi-automatic?

Look at the engine number on the bottom of the engine left side near the gear shifter Kuzuma's I've seen start with "KZM" . Also look at the cross member that runs horizontally between the top of the shocks about right between the lights. You will have to get down and look under the plastic body. Kuzuma puts a VIN plate there. Even if someone has removed the plate I think the number should be stamped into the metal of the frame.

If you are getting no spark but the engine is turning over, do check that CDI. That same issue just happened to me and it turned out the stator was bad and not getting enough voltage to the CDI "trigger" pin to arc a plug. But that was an entirely different bike. There are some good tutorials floating around on how to check all the components. Could be as simple as a bad coil. I had one bike that the plug was fouled so bad it would not spark and a new plug fixed it so I could get it running and fix the rich condition that caused the problem to begin with. I wrote down the order I check things as. 1. eliminate a faulty plug 2. eliminate faulty CDI (need a multimeter) 3. Suspect the AC generator (stator) 4. Plug wire 5. disconnected or bad coil 6. the main switch ... these are the usual suspects for me.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the info Sidewidner, I'm going back out to the shop tonight to crawl around on it some more. Taking my meter to test out the CDI and hope it's something pretty easy. Looks like some of the wires got a little hot and melted on the previous owner. Needless to say, the hack job on the wires is pretty rough but I hope I can trace everything down and get it sorted back out. Other then the wire issue, everything else seems to be in great shape. I'll post more info if I can find a vin or any other info that might help.

 

Was able to spend some more time with it last night. It'a a TaoTao ATA-250B. Can't find much info on it other then just general specs but at least it's a start. Did some tests on the CDI and I'm not getting an voltage output on the Ignition coil.

Have a new CDI on order, hope it's not the stator.

 

Good luck hope the CDI does it. Stator's about $60-$70 and you need a tool to get the flywheel off. The first one I replaced I tried to do it the hard way and just went on a bought the proper tool. Took about 15 seconds to get the thing off after that. With the right tool the replacement is simple. Just make sure you get right stator. Some are DC some are AC, some have 5 wires, some have 4 wires etc.

 

If it has a kill switch make sure it is on. I had this problem untill i pushed the kill switch in.

 

Yea, the obvious first...........

Kill switch on and make sure you have the brake on. You need to make sure the brake is applied to get started. You said it turned over but no spark so I assumed you did all that.

 

Yep, I've got the wire for the kill switched removed from the CDI and can crank the motor over. The new CDI should be in next week. I'll install that and figure out why the rear disk brake isn't working. The foot lever moves the rod but not getting any pressure back to the brake. Might just need to bleed the lines because we have fluid in the master cylinder under the seat

 

Ok, CDI replaced and have spark now. The tank was dry but was able to fire it up off a little starter fluid. Will be going back out today with some fresh gas and spending some time repairing some of the burnt wires. Still trying to get the rear brake to work. I just need to figure how to pull the brake fluid back down to the caliber. Might see if I can rent a brake bleeder tool because it would take forever any other way.

 

Good deal on the new CDI.

I've never had to bleed brakes on my quad, so I have no experience here, but I've read many reports where people have had extreme frustration bleeding their brakes. But then others report using the standard "open the bleed screw, step on the brake, close the bleed screw, and repeat" method as being successful with no problems.

The ones who experienced frustration and later succeeded used a $30 vacuum pump to pull brake fluid down from the master cylinder through the bleed screw, or used a pressure pump (like one of those lever squeeze oil cans [about $1 at harbor freight]) to force brake fluid back up the hose from the bleed screw to the master cylinder.

Others have said the traditional bleed method only worked after they unbolted the brake assembly from the rotor, blocked the calipers open with a block of wood, straightened the hose out such that it was a straight *upward* path from the master cylinder. They idea here is that bubbles in the system want to rise, and this is what you want to push *down* and out the bleed screw when bolted up normally. So by making the bleed screw the *highest* point in the system it aids in achieving that goal. Pushing bubbles down to the bleed screw exit has the problem that they tend to creep back up the hose between bleeding strokes of the brake pedal.

Again, I've never done any of this. I'm just summarizing what I've read from others over the last couple years...