baja 90 no spark
#1
I have a baja 90 that i can not get spark I replaced the cdi and coil with no luck i removed the black and white kill wire and still nothing I think my bike has the ac 6 pin cdi any help would be appreciated
#5
DennyRoark recently posted a really great idea for using an old analog swing needle meter to look at the trigger voltage. It's a great idea. It may do a better job at discerning adequate trigger voltages. If you have access to one it's worth a try. Here is the link:
http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...-no-spark.html
67 volts AC on the AC power pin at the CDI is fine. I assume the 0.567 ohm really means 0.567 Kohms (or 567 ohms, or 0.567 kilo ohms)
What about the rest of the tests? Your coil resistance? Coil voltage while cranking? Remember that we are trying to make our best shot using improper (but commonly available) equipment. Since we're at such a disadvantage we need as much info as possible. Then after chewing on all the data we make the best and informed choice we can of what to do next. This is better than stabbing in the dark.
Are you sure the replacement CDI you bought is really AC powered? AC and DC CDI's look identical, and if you install a DC CDI into an AC powered quad it's not going to work.
#6
Does the meter read 0.00 volts ac on the same scale and same setup when you're not cranking the engine? it reads .001
Coil voltage while cranking? 37v ac 14vdc and it drops wile cranking
Your coil resistance? 9.45 k ohm ground to plug same from plug to power 0.2 ohm power to ground
Are you sure the replacement CDI you bought is really AC powered? AC and DC CDI's look identical, and if you install a DC CDI into an AC powered quad it's not going to work. I took my old cdi to the china atv shop in town and he sold me the new one it look identical
Coil voltage while cranking? 37v ac 14vdc and it drops wile cranking
Your coil resistance? 9.45 k ohm ground to plug same from plug to power 0.2 ohm power to ground
Are you sure the replacement CDI you bought is really AC powered? AC and DC CDI's look identical, and if you install a DC CDI into an AC powered quad it's not going to work. I took my old cdi to the china atv shop in town and he sold me the new one it look identical
#7
I'm a little puzzled by the coil voltage of 14 volts DC. If you really had 14 volts DC on the coil primary, and with a coil primary resistance of 0.2 ohms, that would mean you had 70 amps of current flowing through the coil (ohms law). Obviously this is not the case, so your meter must be really be messing up with the non-standard waveforms here.
You did take the coil voltage measurements with the coil and CDI both hooked up, right? You have to have both hooked hooked up to the wiring harness to get valid readings.
Also, when you measured the coil resistances, did you measure the primary winding resistance (the 0.2 ohm side) from the CDI connector coil output pin to the CDI connector ground pin? Or did you just measure the coil itself? By measuring the coil from the CDI connector in the wiring harness you are verifying the coil *and* the wiring. You could have a wiring problem, so measuring from the CDI connector is a better approach. Perhaps you've already done this, but I'm just trying to be thorough...
Assuming the coil was hooked up for the CDI output measurements then that means that the CDI is firing. That suggests that the trigger circuitry from the stator is working, and you have sufficient power voltage. And yet you still don't have spark.
Here's what I would do. I would do all the tests again, make sure they are reliable and repeatable, and then write down the results. Then put back in the old components you've changed out one by one. Then repeat the tests and write down the results. Look for changes in the results caused by changing out a part.
My thinking is this: If one of the replacement components you bought is also bad, then this could explain your confusing and frustrating results so far. Also keep in mind that *working* parts will work identically so your results will be the same after swapping, while failed parts have many failure modes, and are therefore unlikely to *not work* the same way. This is just a way of getting more clues, and then deciding where to go based on a whole lot of information.
You did take the coil voltage measurements with the coil and CDI both hooked up, right? You have to have both hooked hooked up to the wiring harness to get valid readings.
Also, when you measured the coil resistances, did you measure the primary winding resistance (the 0.2 ohm side) from the CDI connector coil output pin to the CDI connector ground pin? Or did you just measure the coil itself? By measuring the coil from the CDI connector in the wiring harness you are verifying the coil *and* the wiring. You could have a wiring problem, so measuring from the CDI connector is a better approach. Perhaps you've already done this, but I'm just trying to be thorough...

Assuming the coil was hooked up for the CDI output measurements then that means that the CDI is firing. That suggests that the trigger circuitry from the stator is working, and you have sufficient power voltage. And yet you still don't have spark.
Here's what I would do. I would do all the tests again, make sure they are reliable and repeatable, and then write down the results. Then put back in the old components you've changed out one by one. Then repeat the tests and write down the results. Look for changes in the results caused by changing out a part.
My thinking is this: If one of the replacement components you bought is also bad, then this could explain your confusing and frustrating results so far. Also keep in mind that *working* parts will work identically so your results will be the same after swapping, while failed parts have many failure modes, and are therefore unlikely to *not work* the same way. This is just a way of getting more clues, and then deciding where to go based on a whole lot of information.
Trending Topics
#8
ok so the atv has been sitting sense my last post I drug it out today put the old cdi back on and wow i have spark so i guess my question now is can some one tell me wether my cdi is ac or dc and what would a replacment part number would be ( the only number on the old one is XINZHV A0608) I think if i can find the right number im going to order a new cdi and pickup coil just to have here thanks a bunch

#10
See if the following procedure/picture applies to your quad:
If this is your CDI, then use the procedure to figure out what you have. If not we will have to back track a bit and regroup...
The 2 plug 6 wire CDIs come in two different designs. One is powered off 12 volts DC, and the other is powered off a moderately high voltage AC which comes from the stator. Unfortunately there is no reliable way to tell the difference between the two by just looking at them. To be sure you need to use a meter to find out which you have:

1) Unplug the CDI, and turn on the ignition. Do not crank the starter motor. Use a meter to measure the *DC* voltage on the pin labeled "AC ignition power" in the wiring harness to both ground pins in the 4 pin CDI connector. If you measure 12 volts DC then you have a DC powered CDI.
2) If you don't measure 12 volts DC on the ignition power pin, then switch the meter over to measure AC volts on the 200 volt scale. While cranking the starter motor, measure the AC voltage on the "AC Ignition Power" pin to the the Ground pin. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC. If you measure AC voltage when the starter is turning then you have an AC powered CDI.
Using a meter is the only 100% reliable way to figure out if your CDI is AC or DC powered. But there are some clues you can use that are usually (but not always) correct:
A) DC CDIs tend to be a little larger than their AC powered counterpart. This is because the DC powered CDI needs a bunch more circuitry to convert the 12 volts DC to the moderately high voltage supply that all CDIs must have.
B) Most (but not all) DC powered quad ignition systems do not use the kill switch input pin. The CDI connector pin usually has no wire tied to it. AC powered quad ignition systems usually do use the kill switch input pin.

1) Unplug the CDI, and turn on the ignition. Do not crank the starter motor. Use a meter to measure the *DC* voltage on the pin labeled "AC ignition power" in the wiring harness to both ground pins in the 4 pin CDI connector. If you measure 12 volts DC then you have a DC powered CDI.
2) If you don't measure 12 volts DC on the ignition power pin, then switch the meter over to measure AC volts on the 200 volt scale. While cranking the starter motor, measure the AC voltage on the "AC Ignition Power" pin to the the Ground pin. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC. If you measure AC voltage when the starter is turning then you have an AC powered CDI.
Using a meter is the only 100% reliable way to figure out if your CDI is AC or DC powered. But there are some clues you can use that are usually (but not always) correct:
A) DC CDIs tend to be a little larger than their AC powered counterpart. This is because the DC powered CDI needs a bunch more circuitry to convert the 12 volts DC to the moderately high voltage supply that all CDIs must have.
B) Most (but not all) DC powered quad ignition systems do not use the kill switch input pin. The CDI connector pin usually has no wire tied to it. AC powered quad ignition systems usually do use the kill switch input pin.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fordfaithful21
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
9
Dec 7, 2015 05:52 PM
hueby
1) Engine problems..
5
Aug 29, 2015 08:34 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




