Chinese 110 ATV no spark - stator issue?
#11
05-19-2012, 06:41 AM
Hi to all from Spain, I´m having problems with my chinesse-clone 110cc. It doesn´t start.
I followed the testing procedure that you posted here, and I get this:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
I get 380ohms for both measures
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
0 volts
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Put to 2v scale and I get 0.0xxx measures, near to 0.
I removed kill switch pin on cdi to check, but no start.
If I remove the spark plug and touch with frame, start and it sparks.
My problem started with flooding carburetor, all fuel in floor. I discovered a dirt in the floater pin and it seems solved.
valves are just checked, they are in 0.10mm (first time that I got atv, it had difficult start and valves too closed, opened a bit and worked fine).
can you suggest some part to replace, if is it necessary?
CDI seems ok since problem seems before it, but I don´t know that I can check.
thanks and sorry for my bad english.
Pablo
I followed the testing procedure that you posted here, and I get this:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
I get 380ohms for both measures
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
0 volts
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Put to 2v scale and I get 0.0xxx measures, near to 0.
I removed kill switch pin on cdi to check, but no start.
If I remove the spark plug and touch with frame, start and it sparks.
My problem started with flooding carburetor, all fuel in floor. I discovered a dirt in the floater pin and it seems solved.
valves are just checked, they are in 0.10mm (first time that I got atv, it had difficult start and valves too closed, opened a bit and worked fine).
can you suggest some part to replace, if is it necessary?
CDI seems ok since problem seems before it, but I don´t know that I can check.
thanks and sorry for my bad english.
Pablo
Here is the generic prcedure for testing the 5 pin CDI ignition system:
But let's go a bit further on the BRF (big red flag) in the previous post. You measured zero ohms to ground on the Timing/Trigger pin, and you get zero volts for the trigger signal while cranking the starter motor. These are both wrong. This wire should not be shorted to ground. So the next question is whether it is shorted to ground somewhere in the wiring harness, or is it shorted to ground inside the stator (which is where that signal comes from).
Look at the color of the wire in the wiring harness fro the timing trigger pin at the CDI connector. Now go down to the stator area where the stator wires emerge from the engine cover. Follow the pigtail wires up to a connector(s) where they connect into the wiring harness. Find the same color wire noted above in the main harness (this is still the timing trigger wire) and note which wire it connects to in the stator pigtail wires. Unplug the stator from the wiring harness and measure the resistance of that wire to ground looking into the stator. If it is zero ohms here then your stator is bad. If it reads 150 ohms (or so) then we got to look further into the wiring harness. Sometimes quads have a kill switch that shorts the trigger line to ground, or maybe you just have a frayed or pinched wire somewhere. But the first step is to see if the short is in the wiring harness or in the stator...
But let's go a bit further on the BRF (big red flag) in the previous post. You measured zero ohms to ground on the Timing/Trigger pin, and you get zero volts for the trigger signal while cranking the starter motor. These are both wrong. This wire should not be shorted to ground. So the next question is whether it is shorted to ground somewhere in the wiring harness, or is it shorted to ground inside the stator (which is where that signal comes from).
Look at the color of the wire in the wiring harness fro the timing trigger pin at the CDI connector. Now go down to the stator area where the stator wires emerge from the engine cover. Follow the pigtail wires up to a connector(s) where they connect into the wiring harness. Find the same color wire noted above in the main harness (this is still the timing trigger wire) and note which wire it connects to in the stator pigtail wires. Unplug the stator from the wiring harness and measure the resistance of that wire to ground looking into the stator. If it is zero ohms here then your stator is bad. If it reads 150 ohms (or so) then we got to look further into the wiring harness. Sometimes quads have a kill switch that shorts the trigger line to ground, or maybe you just have a frayed or pinched wire somewhere. But the first step is to see if the short is in the wiring harness or in the stator...
#12
05-19-2012, 09:52 PM
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Hi Pablo,
Your english is very good
.
Down below you wrote:
But if this is true then you have spark and your ignition system is working. Am I missing something? If you have spark then fuel and compression are the next things to investigate.
Your english is very good
.Down below you wrote:
If I remove the spark plug and touch with frame, start and it sparks.
Hi to all from Spain, I´m having problems with my chinesse-clone 110cc. It doesn´t start.
I followed the testing procedure that you posted here, and I get this:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
I get 380ohms for both measures
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
0 volts
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Put to 2v scale and I get 0.0xxx measures, near to 0.
I removed kill switch pin on cdi to check, but no start.
If I remove the spark plug and touch with frame, start and it sparks.
My problem started with flooding carburetor, all fuel in floor. I discovered a dirt in the floater pin and it seems solved.
valves are just checked, they are in 0.10mm (first time that I got atv, it had difficult start and valves too closed, opened a bit and worked fine).
can you suggest some part to replace, if is it necessary?
CDI seems ok since problem seems before it, but I don´t know that I can check.
thanks and sorry for my bad english.
Pablo
I followed the testing procedure that you posted here, and I get this:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
I get 380ohms for both measures
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
0 volts
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Put to 2v scale and I get 0.0xxx measures, near to 0.
I removed kill switch pin on cdi to check, but no start.
If I remove the spark plug and touch with frame, start and it sparks.
My problem started with flooding carburetor, all fuel in floor. I discovered a dirt in the floater pin and it seems solved.
valves are just checked, they are in 0.10mm (first time that I got atv, it had difficult start and valves too closed, opened a bit and worked fine).
can you suggest some part to replace, if is it necessary?
CDI seems ok since problem seems before it, but I don´t know that I can check.
thanks and sorry for my bad english.
Pablo
#13
05-20-2012, 03:40 PM
Hi LynnEdwards and thanks for support.
To me, it seems "low power" spark (I suppose, I don´t know). Fuel gets in the spark (it´s wet and smell), compression seems fine.
I try to start and I need about 45 seconds (6-7 tryouts 6-7seconds) to start. Finally, it starts and works fine, idle ok. It´s very strange.
too, the air starter doesn´t make difference, I can´t start with it (air closed).
Carburetor it´s perfectly clean and checked.
I was thinking about an electric issue (low power spark if it´s possible). Spark plug is new tooĄĄĄ (ngk). Is there any way to check if spark is enough? could be a spark but without power to start engine?
thanksĄĄ
To me, it seems "low power" spark (I suppose, I don´t know). Fuel gets in the spark (it´s wet and smell), compression seems fine.
I try to start and I need about 45 seconds (6-7 tryouts 6-7seconds) to start. Finally, it starts and works fine, idle ok. It´s very strange.
too, the air starter doesn´t make difference, I can´t start with it (air closed).
Carburetor it´s perfectly clean and checked.
I was thinking about an electric issue (low power spark if it´s possible). Spark plug is new tooĄĄĄ (ngk). Is there any way to check if spark is enough? could be a spark but without power to start engine?
thanksĄĄ
#14
05-20-2012, 10:20 PM
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Weak spark is really subjective. It's hard to describe in words what weak spark means such that it will be interpretted the same by difference people.
The energy in a spark is proportional to engine speed. This is just an idea. Jump your quad battery to your car battery. Start the car and run it at idle. This will raise your quad battery voltage to 14 volts (from 12 volts). Try to start the quad. The starter will be spinning a bit faster now, making more spark energy. Does this make any difference?
I ignored the voltages you measured in your first post since you reported you had spark. The voltages you posted would have resulted in "no spark". So I discounted those to measurement error. To analyze electrical problem you need to do these tests again. You cannot have spark with zero AC volts on the AC ignition power for example...
.
The energy in a spark is proportional to engine speed. This is just an idea. Jump your quad battery to your car battery. Start the car and run it at idle. This will raise your quad battery voltage to 14 volts (from 12 volts). Try to start the quad. The starter will be spinning a bit faster now, making more spark energy. Does this make any difference?
I ignored the voltages you measured in your first post since you reported you had spark. The voltages you posted would have resulted in "no spark". So I discounted those to measurement error. To analyze electrical problem you need to do these tests again. You cannot have spark with zero AC volts on the AC ignition power for example...
.
#15
12-19-2012, 05:02 PM
Hi
i have an issue also with my kids atv 110cc honda copy
after about one hours driving it suddenly became to run very weak
it seemed to go rich on fuel but bcarburator have been checked several time and no thing found,
it have became to work bette but not good, but now suddenly it died and no it have no spark,
Plug is switched to new non china brand
i have tested the measurements in this post and here is my results:
1. 349 omhs
2. 123 ohms
3. 54 volts
4. 0,39 volt
output side of CDI
rsistance ignition coil to ground
1.8 - 1.9 ohms
measurements of voltage on ignition coil pin to ground
is steadly about 0,036volt to 0,039 volt
is this a bad CDI?
how to measure the ignition coil?
Earth wire is tested and whole wiring is "opened and checked"
Reg. G
i have an issue also with my kids atv 110cc honda copy
after about one hours driving it suddenly became to run very weak
it seemed to go rich on fuel but bcarburator have been checked several time and no thing found,
it have became to work bette but not good, but now suddenly it died and no it have no spark,
Plug is switched to new non china brand
i have tested the measurements in this post and here is my results:
1. 349 omhs
2. 123 ohms
3. 54 volts
4. 0,39 volt
output side of CDI
rsistance ignition coil to ground
1.8 - 1.9 ohms
measurements of voltage on ignition coil pin to ground
is steadly about 0,036volt to 0,039 volt
is this a bad CDI?
how to measure the ignition coil?
Earth wire is tested and whole wiring is "opened and checked"
Reg. G
#16
12-20-2012, 01:05 AM
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My comments in blue:
Hi
i have an issue also with my kids atv 110cc honda copy
after about one hours driving it suddenly became to run very weak
it seemed to go rich on fuel but bcarburator have been checked several time and no thing found,
it have became to work bette but not good, but now suddenly it died and no it have no spark,
Plug is switched to new non china brand
i have tested the measurements in this post and here is my results:
[I assume you are following the generic 5 wire AC powered CDI test procedure. If so, the results for the first step is missing (and one of the most important). What is the resistance of the kill switch pin to ground? What did you measure for that? I'll post the full generic procedure below with this step highlighted in red.]
1. 349 omhs [OK]
2. 123 ohms [OK]
3. 54 volts [OK]
4. 0,39 volt [OK]
output side of CDI
rsistance ignition coil to ground
1.8 - 1.9 ohms [This seems quite high based on my experience, but it is possible that I just haven't seen the full range of possibilites yet with my limited experience. ]
measurements of voltage on ignition coil pin to ground
is steadly about 0,036volt to 0,039 volt [36 mV is indicating that the CDI is either dead, or the CDI is not getting triggered, or the kill switch is grounded. Since you didn't report the kill switch test results that moves kill switch issues right up to the top of the list until proven otherwise. ]
Here is the full generic 5 pin ignition system test:
is this a bad CDI?
how to measure the ignition coil? []
Earth wire is tested and whole wiring is "opened and checked"
Reg. G
i have an issue also with my kids atv 110cc honda copy
after about one hours driving it suddenly became to run very weak
it seemed to go rich on fuel but bcarburator have been checked several time and no thing found,
it have became to work bette but not good, but now suddenly it died and no it have no spark,
Plug is switched to new non china brand
i have tested the measurements in this post and here is my results:
[I assume you are following the generic 5 wire AC powered CDI test procedure. If so, the results for the first step is missing (and one of the most important). What is the resistance of the kill switch pin to ground? What did you measure for that? I'll post the full generic procedure below with this step highlighted in red.]
1. 349 omhs [OK]
2. 123 ohms [OK]
3. 54 volts [OK]
4. 0,39 volt [OK]
output side of CDI
rsistance ignition coil to ground
1.8 - 1.9 ohms [This seems quite high based on my experience, but it is possible that I just haven't seen the full range of possibilites yet with my limited experience. ]
measurements of voltage on ignition coil pin to ground
is steadly about 0,036volt to 0,039 volt [36 mV is indicating that the CDI is either dead, or the CDI is not getting triggered, or the kill switch is grounded. Since you didn't report the kill switch test results that moves kill switch issues right up to the top of the list until proven otherwise. ]
Here is the full generic 5 pin ignition system test:
Is this a picture of your CDI?
Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring:
Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.
Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring:
Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.
Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
is this a bad CDI?
how to measure the ignition coil? []
Earth wire is tested and whole wiring is "opened and checked"
Reg. G
#17
12-23-2015, 07:00 PM
strong spark ONLY if i hokd the cdi box
Hi everyone. new to this site. Reason im on is this. I have a 110 chinese ATV i believe its a coolster. Had the remote kill switch on it. No fob so i removed the box. No key either ( no i didnt steal it lol) my buddy gave it to me for my kid. We are active duty Army. Problem was he lost both the key and the fob when he PCS's outta the state Colorado. Anyway thats why i eliminated those two features.
Ok here is the issue. Had a no start, replaced the batt, now it turns over had a no spark. And this has been my mouse trap for 4 days all day. Im loosing my leave days trying to figure it out. Lynn Edwards this will need your attention please. I have done EVERYTHING to resolve the no spark. New ststor. All values are within range as to the flow chart described earlier out of stator, 5 pin CDI the (new performance kind with a led light on it) i replaced with a new one. Tested the regulator and its just fine as for resistance ect. But that wont stop my no spark. I then went through every wire and completly removed all wires for lights and things indont need. Its now just bare min. I replaced every ground wire with new wires. Soldered everything and heat shrunk protected. I dis the big three ground trick i learned long time ago as a mechanic. I have solid ground from frame engine to batt to wires in multiple spots on frame and engine over board on ground but thats good. Ok so. Im getting a weak spark at the plug most the time UNLESS i hold the CDI box and move it around a little bit. (This is the old CDI not the new one) this sometimes makes the led light on the CDI come on. And then sometimes the atv starts up and puurrs. Iv only got it to start a hand full of times btw. So naturally i think loose wite and or bad cdi. Thats when i bought the new CDI same brand 5 pin and inspect wires one more time. (Let me stop there and remind anyone who can help me, the bike started up and ran great) so completly re vamping and re doing the WHOLE wire harness worked) ok so i inspected the connectors at the harness the decided to inspect every connector again pulled them all out if they looked even slightly bad i replaced, crimped, and even soldered then to connnector to be safe (over kill again lol) but its a goid piece of mind. Anyhow. Bought the new CDI and pkuged it in. NO SPARK! I was sure this was it. Put the old one back on and same as before woulf try to start but only if i wiggled or touched the cdi box or wires coming right out of it. Got it to start again doing that. But died if i wiggled the cdi again. So i went back got ANOTHER cdi thinking it was bad. But before i left i asked the guy to ise that same cdi in his bike her had there same model and cc fired right up. Left with another new cdi but this time the stock one. But just like the last one nothing would try tonstart if iwiggled it a bit while cranking. SO.... I know everyone is thinking he wiggles the wires and cdi while cranking and gets spark. Its bad wires or something loose or the CDI or BOTH. Iv done everything tonthe wiring harness toncheck that. Beep mode on the multimeter to every wire theough whole harness nonissues at all. So why doninonly get a somid spark when i hokd the cdi box or wires right near it? PLEASE HELP iv spent 4 days on this all day. Found nothing online that is helpfull besides all the stator values and cdi resistance ect.
Ok here is the issue. Had a no start, replaced the batt, now it turns over had a no spark. And this has been my mouse trap for 4 days all day. Im loosing my leave days trying to figure it out. Lynn Edwards this will need your attention please. I have done EVERYTHING to resolve the no spark. New ststor. All values are within range as to the flow chart described earlier out of stator, 5 pin CDI the (new performance kind with a led light on it) i replaced with a new one. Tested the regulator and its just fine as for resistance ect. But that wont stop my no spark. I then went through every wire and completly removed all wires for lights and things indont need. Its now just bare min. I replaced every ground wire with new wires. Soldered everything and heat shrunk protected. I dis the big three ground trick i learned long time ago as a mechanic. I have solid ground from frame engine to batt to wires in multiple spots on frame and engine over board on ground but thats good. Ok so. Im getting a weak spark at the plug most the time UNLESS i hold the CDI box and move it around a little bit. (This is the old CDI not the new one) this sometimes makes the led light on the CDI come on. And then sometimes the atv starts up and puurrs. Iv only got it to start a hand full of times btw. So naturally i think loose wite and or bad cdi. Thats when i bought the new CDI same brand 5 pin and inspect wires one more time. (Let me stop there and remind anyone who can help me, the bike started up and ran great) so completly re vamping and re doing the WHOLE wire harness worked) ok so i inspected the connectors at the harness the decided to inspect every connector again pulled them all out if they looked even slightly bad i replaced, crimped, and even soldered then to connnector to be safe (over kill again lol) but its a goid piece of mind. Anyhow. Bought the new CDI and pkuged it in. NO SPARK! I was sure this was it. Put the old one back on and same as before woulf try to start but only if i wiggled or touched the cdi box or wires coming right out of it. Got it to start again doing that. But died if i wiggled the cdi again. So i went back got ANOTHER cdi thinking it was bad. But before i left i asked the guy to ise that same cdi in his bike her had there same model and cc fired right up. Left with another new cdi but this time the stock one. But just like the last one nothing would try tonstart if iwiggled it a bit while cranking. SO.... I know everyone is thinking he wiggles the wires and cdi while cranking and gets spark. Its bad wires or something loose or the CDI or BOTH. Iv done everything tonthe wiring harness toncheck that. Beep mode on the multimeter to every wire theough whole harness nonissues at all. So why doninonly get a somid spark when i hokd the cdi box or wires right near it? PLEASE HELP iv spent 4 days on this all day. Found nothing online that is helpfull besides all the stator values and cdi resistance ect.
#18
12-26-2015, 09:46 AM
Just because your getting a reading when testing the wires does not mean they are good. If you wiggle the cdi and it will work (sort off) then you have a broken wire some ware in the harness.
You really should have started a new post instead of hijacking a old post. Probably would get more help
You really should have started a new post instead of hijacking a old post. Probably would get more help
#19
12-27-2015, 03:07 AM
Just because your getting a reading when testing the wires does not mean they are good. If you wiggle the cdi and it will work (sort off) then you have a broken wire some ware in the harness.
You really should have started a new post instead of hijacking a old post. Probably would get more help
You really should have started a new post instead of hijacking a old post. Probably would get more help
I ended up starting a new post but no replies yet. I figured the same thing though. I have traced every single wire in the quad. Every connector into each harness has been removed and inspected one at a time. Any wire ground or power that were factory spliced and soldered i cut, re soldered, then heat shrunk. The problem isn't in the harness. Doubt 3 CDI were faulty as well. Im starting to think the magnito is to far from the pickup on the flywheel and its not triggering the CDI. Its not adjustable though so not really a way around it. Volts coming out of the CDI to the coil are .018 maybe thats to low? Not triggering the CDI to fire its stored power to the coil?
#20
12-27-2015, 03:27 AM
I ended up starting a new post but no replies yet. I figured the same thing though. I have traced every single wire in the quad. Every connector into each harness has been removed and inspected one at a time. Any wire ground or power that were factory spliced and soldered i cut, re soldered, then heat shrunk. The problem isn't in the harness. Doubt 3 CDI were faulty as well. Im starting to think the magnito is to far from the pickup on the flywheel and its not triggering the CDI. Its not adjustable though so not really a way around it. Volts coming out of the CDI to the coil are .018 maybe thats to low? Not triggering the CDI to fire its stored power to the coil?
