Not sure a new post is a good idea, adding to this one indicates you have read and followed Lynn's advice. Christmas day and boxing day are not the best for getting answers.

I recon less than 1V from the cdi is too low, I'm sure the trigger coil will be kicking out more than that on it's own. However we had to buy a special device from Honda to test outputs from trigger coil and CDI as they recon just connecting an AC voltmeter won't give a sensible reading. Fairly obvious, but when connectors have been on and off a few times, they can get loose, are you sure all the spades onto the CDI are tight? From your post, I'm not sure if you have by-passed the original wires, or re soldered the connectors on them, if you are still using the original wires, they can deteriorate inside the plastic insulation, leaving one place anywhere in the wire where it has turned to verdigree with little or no indication from the outside.

 

Yeah i wasn't expecting many replies being its the holidays and all. All my values going into the CDI look decent. Just going out of it to the coil has been the problem. As for the internal wire's in the sheathing it crossed my mind, so i bent and meanuvered every inch of the wires to see if i felt any inconsistency. I guess my next step would be just replace every wire. As for spade connectors. I slightly crushed everyone one of them before i snapped them back into their spot on the connectors. Also used Dielectric grease on them as well. Since the stator is new and values coming out of it seem decent, but the led light on my CDI no rev limit box sometimes is weak or not coming on at all (green light indicates timing hit) i will start replacing the wires from the stator connector back to the CDI connector. Already did all the ground wires. Just seems odd seeing as how the meeter says the power to the cdi is fine you know. Whats your thought? Just hoping someone can think of something i havent yet. Outside looking in kind of ideas.

 

Wires checked as sound with a voltmeter may not be capable of transmitting power. I have caused myself a lot of work by following a voltmeter's readings, and tend to use a 12v test lamp for battery system faults now. However you can't use a test lamp on the CDI system much.

It may be worth following the basic wiring set up on the revived post that has just popped up on this site.

 

I have that same diagram already. Iv used that numerous times while checking and re checking all my wires are in the correct locations via connectors and harness.
At this point inthink im just going to replace all wires from stator to CDI just need to get the same color wires so i dont have a mess of wrong colors throwing me off you know. I ordered another CDI, coil, and stator online also. I figured it couldnt hurt. Im sure ill need them again at one point in this quads future. The problem still existst before or at the CDI. Hopefully changing the wires out will solve this nightmear.
My gut tells me its not the wires but somewhere in the stator. Iv thrown to many new CDI's that are known good at this for it to be the cdi.

I did put on a new stator that i bought from a local shop and got no spark. Did a bench test on it and it was grounding out of the yellow and white wires to rectifier. I assume it was no good new out of the box. As it must have a short to the stator if im getting a chime from my multimeter from the ground of the stator housing to the yelmow and white wire. Not supposed to be able to donthat from those two wires.

 

"it must have a short to the stator if im getting a chime from my multimeter from the ground of the stator housing to the yelmow and white wire. Not supposed to be able to do that from those two wires."

Possibly, but if you look at the black and white wiring diagram on the other post, the stator coils have a green earth wire.

 

Forgive me for bringing back an old thread, but after reading some of the early tests to do on finding a no spark issue, one little note stood out. It was noted that the pick up coil must be close to the metal raised 'bump' on the flywheel, and not be affected by other metals. After replacing a coil, cdi, rectifier and disconnecting kill switch wire on cdi, I still had no spark. Removing the stator just to have a look for broken wires or something, I did notice the back side of the pick up coil had the plastic broken around three edges. Would this cause a no spark issue??

 

Possibly, but electrical components can work when looking rough, and not work when looking perfect. Disconnect the wire from it and check, with an AC voltmeter, if it produces volts when the engine is spun on the starter, a couple of volts should be enough to trigger the CDI.

 

I will try that. So frustrating. I got a cheap atv for my son cause I knew he would out grow it anyway, and he did. Now its his little brothers turn and I was hoping it would last long enough for him. He isn't into the atvs like his older brother as much, so I am reluctant to go by another atv in case he doesn't use it.
I need to check for voltage at the connector from the stator. Im not sure what wires and what voltage to check for. I'm sure a little digging and I'll find it here somewhere.

 

I tried combing through replies and didn't see anyone address what I'm seeing.
I think everything looks good except:
Only 19.5vAC when cranking on AC Ignition Power Wire
Only seeing 2,350 Ohms across my plug wire to ground

The thing ran fine then sat for a couple weeks and lost spark. Could the coil or stator just go bad like that?