Coolster 3125-XR8 carb issue?? New.
Apr 19, 2012 | 09:18 AM
#11
KTM Patrol
Former Chinese POW!
Former Chinese POW!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 78,452
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From: Hat Creek, Ca
I dont remember on the fuel screw, I will check when I get home
as far as the gearing goes, the only differance I noticed is that when I am doing donuts, eventually it would bog and sometimes stall.. it is a lot less likely to do that now, but I honestly cant feel ANY acceleration differance.. my thought is that it just doesnt have the power down low, and all the gears do up top is cut top end speed
the other thing I noticed is sometimes I really overload it and ride with my son.. our combined weight at that point is about 275.. in the past I would have to start it flintstone style, but it was fine once we got to speed.. I was hoping that would change, but it didnt
I am happy I didnt put much money into that, but it was a hassle..
1. order sprockets, 2. install sprockets, 3. find out chain is too small, 4. reinstall old ones, 5. order longer chain, 6. install new sprockets again and find out chain is too long, 7. cut new chain, 8. find out chain is now too short, 9. reinstall old sprockets again, 10. order half link, 11. reinstall everything with added half link, 12. test drive and find not much differance, 13. win?
MWQ - do you know how to check cam timing? I just wanted to make sure it was right.. when I googled it everything I found shows a circular plate on the side of the head opposite the spark plug where the cam gear should be.. mine doesnt have that?
as far as the gearing goes, the only differance I noticed is that when I am doing donuts, eventually it would bog and sometimes stall.. it is a lot less likely to do that now, but I honestly cant feel ANY acceleration differance.. my thought is that it just doesnt have the power down low, and all the gears do up top is cut top end speed
the other thing I noticed is sometimes I really overload it and ride with my son.. our combined weight at that point is about 275.. in the past I would have to start it flintstone style, but it was fine once we got to speed.. I was hoping that would change, but it didnt
I am happy I didnt put much money into that, but it was a hassle..
1. order sprockets, 2. install sprockets, 3. find out chain is too small, 4. reinstall old ones, 5. order longer chain, 6. install new sprockets again and find out chain is too long, 7. cut new chain, 8. find out chain is now too short, 9. reinstall old sprockets again, 10. order half link, 11. reinstall everything with added half link, 12. test drive and find not much differance, 13. win?
MWQ - do you know how to check cam timing? I just wanted to make sure it was right.. when I googled it everything I found shows a circular plate on the side of the head opposite the spark plug where the cam gear should be.. mine doesnt have that?
Wow that is amazing.. i would think it(the 2 sprocket changes) would make a huge difference..
You will need to pull the valve cover off the engine if it doesnt have a cover plate.. Put the Flywheel is on TDC or T depending on how the flywheel is marked.. and look at the cam sprocket.. Most have a line or 2 dots that align with the top of the engine case.. or at worst... are the 2 bolt hole either parallel to the top of the head?
I doubt that is your problem but you never know..atleast if you check it you wont have to think about it anymore..
Apr 19, 2012 | 11:58 AM
#12
Range Rover
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 104
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it doent seem to have a valve cover either.. the only bolts I havent undone are the 4 on top that hold the head on, and you cant pull the head if the cam is still chained to the crank.. boggles my mind - I may have the first engine that turns the cam with nothing but magic.. or maybe there are tiny elves in there actuating my valves
anyway, I pulled the trigger on the vm22 this morning, I should have it by the middle of next week and hopefully have it on and running by next weekend
I'll update you guys when I know something
anyway, I pulled the trigger on the vm22 this morning, I should have it by the middle of next week and hopefully have it on and running by next weekend
I'll update you guys when I know something
Apr 19, 2012 | 01:51 PM
#13
KTM Patrol
Former Chinese POW!
Former Chinese POW!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 78,452
Likes: 56
From: Hat Creek, Ca
it doent seem to have a valve cover either.. the only bolts I havent undone are the 4 on top that hold the head on, and you cant pull the head if the cam is still chained to the crank.. boggles my mind - I may have the first engine that turns the cam with nothing but magic.. or maybe there are tiny elves in there actuating my valves
anyway, I pulled the trigger on the vm22 this morning, I should have it by the middle of next week and hopefully have it on and running by next weekend
I'll update you guys when I know something
anyway, I pulled the trigger on the vm22 this morning, I should have it by the middle of next week and hopefully have it on and running by next weekend
I'll update you guys when I know something
Maybe post a pic of the engine.
Apr 20, 2012 | 05:37 AM
#14
Thread Starter
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Trailblazer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Central IL
I worked some with the quad and exposed the fuel screw. It was 1 1/2 turns out factory set. The machine ran worse as I turned the screw out. This surprised me! I was thinking the problems were from running lean!!!
I found the best to be with the screw turned in half a turn. When I turned the screw in more the sounds were unexplainable. Don't know how to explain the sounds from the carb. Will have to test this more and might be able to explain. Clicking sounds is the best I can say now.
I did put Sea Foam into the fuel also and not sure how that affected yet. I would think this engine should have more power on take off. Just hearing the revs makes me believe the gearing will not be the answer. That has been proven also. When in neutral, the revs sound great and sounds tuned correctly. No backfire or sputters. With a load, whole different sound. Any thoughts? I did the NGK spark plug also. The engine has 1 hour or so of run time and I don't think things will change after "break in". My 150cc had so much take off it was great. Anyone have a 125cc and how is the power on your model?
I found the best to be with the screw turned in half a turn. When I turned the screw in more the sounds were unexplainable. Don't know how to explain the sounds from the carb. Will have to test this more and might be able to explain. Clicking sounds is the best I can say now.
I did put Sea Foam into the fuel also and not sure how that affected yet. I would think this engine should have more power on take off. Just hearing the revs makes me believe the gearing will not be the answer. That has been proven also. When in neutral, the revs sound great and sounds tuned correctly. No backfire or sputters. With a load, whole different sound. Any thoughts? I did the NGK spark plug also. The engine has 1 hour or so of run time and I don't think things will change after "break in". My 150cc had so much take off it was great. Anyone have a 125cc and how is the power on your model?
Apr 20, 2012 | 08:43 AM
#15
Range Rover
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
I worked some with the quad and exposed the fuel screw. It was 1 1/2 turns out factory set. The machine ran worse as I turned the screw out. This surprised me! I was thinking the problems were from running lean!!!
I found the best to be with the screw turned in half a turn.
I found the best to be with the screw turned in half a turn.
with a 2 stroke carb when you turn the screw in you are restricting air to the pilot jet, richening your mixture
the easiest way to tell the differance between the 2 stroke and 4 stroke carbs is the position of the adjustment.. if it is on the intake side it is a 2 stroke carb /w air screw.. if it is on the engine side it is a 4 stroke carb with a fuel screw
Apr 20, 2012 | 08:52 AM
#16
Range Rover
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 104
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here are some pics of my motor
quad 2 by dkluck1, on Flickr
that is the left side of the head where the cam cover plate should be but isnt
quad 3 by dkluck1, on Flickr
the is the sparkplug side.. there is an access plate, you can kind of see the bolts in the top right side behind the footplate shield, but there is nothing undeneith but a hole
quad 1 by dkluck1, on Flickr
that would be the flywheel area.. the numbers on it are tzh157FM110872004
from what I can tell the tzh probably represents the foundry it was made in, the 1 means 1 cylinder, the 57 is the bore size, F means air cooled, M mean for motorcycle, and the rest of the numbers are probably a serial number/production number.. not much usefull here..
MWQ - does this look like your pushrod motor?
quad 2 by dkluck1, on Flickr
that is the left side of the head where the cam cover plate should be but isnt
quad 3 by dkluck1, on Flickr
the is the sparkplug side.. there is an access plate, you can kind of see the bolts in the top right side behind the footplate shield, but there is nothing undeneith but a hole
quad 1 by dkluck1, on Flickr
that would be the flywheel area.. the numbers on it are tzh157FM110872004
from what I can tell the tzh probably represents the foundry it was made in, the 1 means 1 cylinder, the 57 is the bore size, F means air cooled, M mean for motorcycle, and the rest of the numbers are probably a serial number/production number.. not much usefull here..
MWQ - does this look like your pushrod motor?
Apr 20, 2012 | 03:30 PM
#17
KTM Patrol
Former Chinese POW!
Former Chinese POW!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 78,452
Likes: 56
From: Hat Creek, Ca
no.. both of mine(with push rod engines) have vertical cylinders..
My 90 and 125 have horizontal cylinders like yours.
Apr 20, 2012 | 07:21 PM
#19
Thread Starter
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Trailblazer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 61
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From: Central IL
Update on my jets. I have time to remove the pilot jet and main from the carb. I read the pilot jet should have the three small holes on the side and I knew those were open. The thru hole was clogged!!!!! I am working OT right now at work and brought the jets in with me. I used a resistor to dig out the clogged stuff. Now I have light coming thru the pilot jet and will have to test this out. The hole is not the same diameter as the hole seen in the shaft. If I drilled this out like some have mentioned I would have a different jetting than factory. This will be an excellent test to try now and see if the low end take off improves. Totally makes sense and I hope this is true.....at least I found something to try and time will tell. I will update what I find.
Apr 20, 2012 | 08:44 PM
#20
Range Rover
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 104
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mine runs best at between 1 and 1.5 out.. screwed in any more and it doesnt like to idle