More on the cdi,
the new cdi has a better,performance based throttle curve. It also removes the rev limitations of the stock cdi. Yoi should be able to get one dilivered for under $20.
But i recomend working with the carb first, the cdi did nothing for the low end bogging. Once you get past the pilot circit, and into the needel, wow that cdi is great! Wot is increased as well, and that will be a bigger main jet to get the full power.
For a cheap plug and play upgrade, I am happy, and i know it will continue to get better

 

when I said it was 180 out I meant the crank.. my cam timing was off 1-2 teeth, maybee 1 cm.. I would guess that maybe 15-20 degrees

checking it is easy
1. pull your sparkplug (makes it wasier to turn)
2. on the left side remove the plug right in the middle of the "buldge", the buldge covers the flywheel, mine had a flat slot and a chrome plug
3. remove the plug on top (directly above the other plug)
4. on the right side of the head there is a 10mm bolt that needs to be loosened, not necessarily removed - this is what I didnt do that caused me to buy a new cover
5. pop off the cover on the left side of the head
6. using a 14mm socket you can turn the crank (counter clockwise) while looking down into the hole you opened on top. There is a T mark with a line at top dead center. In the pic I posted you can see the mark in that cam gear is in the lower right.. keep turning untill the T lines up and the cam mark is on the left side
7. ideally there should be a timing mark on your head.. mine didnt have one.. but if you drew an imaginary line directly up the center of the cylinder and head, that is where the timing mark in the cam gear should line up to.. above that is retarded lower than that is advanced

before you go tearing it apart, you may wait to find out what my results are.. I will know tonight.. timing is easy to check, but a hassle to change

you can see most of what I am refering to in the pics I posted (mostly on page 2 of this thread)
I could give you better pics when I get home if needed

 

what did you drill out on the exhaust?

 

I used the largest bit my drill would take. I removed the chrome cover on the end of the muffler, and drilled a hole just off to both sides of the exhaust tip. After drilling the extirior wall, next was a baffle, and then a second baffle. Eventually this will help out the bottom end torque once the carb is tuned right.

with your simple instructions, you have me interested in checking my timing.

Also, apologies for typos and spelling, I am typing from.a touch screen phone.

 

Arrived home. Installed the carb with a clean pilot jet. There is a very noticable increase in power! Enough so that pushing on the slowly, put me back in the seat. There is much more bottom end now. Just from cleaning the pilot jet. Still though, when you push fast on the throttle, it boggs but this time a little later in the power band.

I have big hopes for when my micro drill set comes in, might 4 - 5 days.

Here was a nice surprise. Nice throttle response in forward, insaine response in revearse, the tires actually spun on my driveway.

Take apart your carb and clean the jets!

 

We have to remember this is only a 6-7 HP motor. I played with mine today and have some punch off the line. Not huge, but better. I raised the needle with a washer shim. One turn out on my air screw.

I found the slide is a #30 and the needle is 41mm long with a K60 stamped into it. I will see if I can buy a longer needle with clip adjustments now.

If you watch kids on a lawn mower go cart, they don't have low end take off either. Once moving they get going. We have the same hp motor on the quads. This is like me comparing the 250cc quad to my 400cc. The 400 will pull off the ground and throw you where the 250 just gets join.

My main jets will be here soon and I will see what that does also. I have one size leaner and two sizes richer to mess with. I would like to play with the pilot jet more, but until I can find where to buy the original again, I don't want to get into a point of no return.

 

The entire carb assy is $24 shipped. And the full rebuild kit which has every seal, jet, screw, needle, gasket, and spring is $9.99 shipped. If I go too far, I'll jist do a rebuild. I want to find the best setting for the pilot jet, and then order an oem jet once I know what size I want. Or if I am happy with a drilled jet, I will just stick with that.

 

Where are you finding parts at that cost? I have a post on here for $38 on the carb. Where did you buy your drill bits also?

 

Ebay for all of the above. And even Google.
The drill bits were $6.49 shipped.

 

so I got home and my cam cover was waiting for me.. unfortunately it was the wrong one.. its too big and wouldnt fit

I was so excited to try the quad that I just duck taped the broken one on and fired it up.

when its cold I still have the popping noise, the possible carb backfire.. im not sure whats up with that

once it warmed up I got to drive it down the street and back plus do a couple donuts before the oil had loosened the sticky from the duck tape and I had to stop

it seems like the bog is gone! it doesnt seem much faster unfortunately, but I am really happy that I dont have to worry about it stalling when I punch the throttle.. I figure between that and getting the carb tuned correctly this little quad will be all I wanted it to be

I wish I could have done more testing, but that is out of my control right now

if your interested, here is what my correcting timing looked like
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78121832@N00/7115653599/http://www.flickr.com/photos/78121832@N00/7115653599/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/78121832@N00/, on Flickr

I drew the black marks on with a sharpie where I estimated top dead center to be.. looking at the quad it looked like they were in the right spot, but looking at this pic it looks low.. who knows.. I think I will let it be for now