1) Engine problems.. If your quad wont run..post in here.

needing help with a hy bird 200cc n a vbike 250cc

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Old 07-14-2012, 08:37 AM
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Default needing help with a hy bird 200cc n a vbike 250cc

Ok here is the deal the hy bird got it used was running great. The head lights were unhooked didn't ask why. I went to hook them back up and now it won't start. At the coil cdi side I'm getting up to 34 volts while cranking. At the spark plug its reading .400 v. I put a new coil on same thing. Any ideas??

Ok now for the vbike got it the guy said that he flipped it n it would not start. So I fixed the wires that pulled apart installed a new battery. At the coil cdi side while cranking the voltage meter is going to negative. At the spark plug I'm getting .350v. I have tried a new cdi box. Any ideas??

If anyone can help me out on either of these thanks.
 
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:47 AM
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the last hibird i had had some ground issues around the headlight area on the wiring. it had a short up in there. have you chased the wires and metered them to find the suspect grounding issue?
 
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:05 AM
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I just unhooked them for now what could cause it not to start now tho.
 
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:19 AM
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i don't think that hibird has the brake interlock safety switch, your quad is a manual shift right? anyways, just to be on the safe side, set/pull your left hand brake and hit the starter switch. your voltage on the battery is up to normal, correct? sometimes the starter switch's wires will try to pull out and disconnect. that's something to check also.
 
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:04 AM
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Ok ill check all that. Im keep a battery charger connected to it while doing tests. The quad doesnt have the safety switch u speak of. It is a Manuel shift. Also the kill switch doesn't work it would kill the quad before do u think that has something to do with it??
 
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:50 PM
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Does anyone out there have any idea??
 
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bethelflier8036
Ok here is the deal the hy bird got it used was running great. The head lights were unhooked didn't ask why. I went to hook them back up and now it won't start. At the coil cdi side I'm getting up to 34 volts while cranking. At the spark plug its reading .400 v. I put a new coil on same thing. Any ideas??

Ok now for the vbike got it the guy said that he flipped it n it would not start. So I fixed the wires that pulled apart installed a new battery. At the coil cdi side while cranking the voltage meter is going to negative. At the spark plug I'm getting .350v. I have tried a new cdi box. Any ideas??

If anyone can help me out on either of these thanks.
I'd like to start with the basics:

Do you have spark? Pull out the plug, hold the plug threads against the engine block (hooked up) and crank the engine like you would when trying to start it up. Do you see steady spark across the gap at about 10 times per second?

If you have spark then there is no point measuring the voltages that you did. If you don't have spark then you need to do the complete suite of tests besides just measuring the CDI output voltage. And did you even follow that step correctly? It is just one of several tests which you absolutely must do for "no spark" troubleshooting.

Do you know if your CDI is DC powered or AC powered (assuming you don't have spark)? If you do have spark we're barking up the wrong tree.

And one more *very* important thing: Never, ever, under any circumstance try to "measure" the spark plug output voltage with ordinary meters, oscilloscopes, any any test equipment under power (trying to produce spark) that has not been specifically designed to work at 40,000 volts. Meters are 500 volts maximum! Yeah, it's possible to design test equipment that will withstand that, but the very fact that that they specify 500 volts maximum (usually for most meters and oscilloscopes) says that they didn't design it to withstand this. Not only can you destroy your test equipment (instantly, or over time, but always completely silently), but there is absolutely no information to be gained from this test. You are taking a big risk, for no gain at all. We measure primary side ignition voltages only... If you want to look at secondary voltages then look at the spark. Get a test plug and vary the gap if you want. See if it sparks at a double gap. See if it sparks at a narrower gap. These are indirect (and safe) ways to measure secondary (spark) voltages.

It is completely kosher to measure ignition coil output side resistances with the engine stopped and the ignition off.
 
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:26 PM
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I did the spark plug against the block deal no spark at all. I have not checked to see if the cdi box is ac or dc. How would I go about doing that?? On the vbike why am I going to negative??

Thanks for ur reply
 
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:47 PM
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Help help can anyone help. 3 days of working on it n still nothing
 
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:04 AM
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Here is a procedure for seeing if your CDI is AC or DC. The procedure for testing these two ignition systems are different:

The 2 plug 6 wire CDIs come in two different designs. One is powered off 12 volts DC, and the other is powered off a moderately high voltage AC which comes from the stator. Unfortunately there is no reliable way to tell the difference between the two by just looking at them. To be sure you need to use a meter to find out which you have:

1) Unplug the CDI, and turn on the ignition. Do not crank the starter motor. Use a meter to measure the *DC* voltage on the pin labeled "AC ignition power" in the wiring harness to both ground pins in the 4 pin CDI connector. If you measure 12 volts DC then you have a DC powered CDI.

2) If you don't measure 12 volts DC on the ignition power pin, then switch the meter over to measure AC volts on the 200 volt scale. While cranking the starter motor, measure the AC voltage on the "AC Ignition Power" pin to the the Ground pin. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC. If you measure AC voltage when the starter is turning then you have an AC powered CDI.

Using a meter is the only 100% reliable way to figure out if your CDI is AC or DC powered. But there are some clues you can use that are usually (but not always) correct:

A) DC CDIs tend to be a little larger than their AC powered counterpart. This is because the DC powered CDI needs a bunch more circuitry to convert the 12 volts DC to the moderately high voltage supply that all CDIs must have.

B) Most (but not all) DC powered quad ignition systems do not use the kill switch input pin. The CDI connector pin usually has no wire tied to it. AC powered quad ignition systems usually do use the kill switch input pin.
 


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