Have you checked the compression?

 

Not yet, I assumed that given the abundance of carb issues, the problem would be there. What is good compression for a small 90cc Chinese quad? I'll give it a check ASAP.

 

I'd think 90 or so minimum.

 

It's definitely not the compression, it held strong at 110. I don't what to do now. I should also mention that even with a clean air filter it runs even worse when attached. The idle gets really low then eventually stalls. I its a little difficult to crank up until the motor warms up, it involve a lot of playing with the choke and feathering the throttle to keep it running, but after she's warm it fires right up without any throttle and the choke off. I do t get it, at a quarter throttle it runs fairly well, at half you start noticing the bog as it gets to the top of the rpms, at three quarter it doesn't quiet get to peak rpm but as soon as it reaches that point it bogs and quickly drops about 500+ rpms, as if I someone was opening and closing the throttle intentionally, but I'm not I'm just holding it wide open..

 

"the quad only wants to idel best with the idle screw turned as far to the left as possible and the air mix screw just a little more than two turns out."

Left as in completely backed off? And 2 turns on the air/fuel screw is a starting point (yours may be almost a full turn from here and be okay). If these conditions sound like you quad along with spraying fuel and running like crap at full throttle, I'd say you were discribing my quad cept mine still idles fast like the choke is on (it's off wont idle period if its just a bit on).

I was gonna fix it today but decided to camp on the couch instead. What I shoulda done was remove the carb. Pull the idle screw completely from the carb and make 100% sure the passage was clear with a can-o-spray. Inspect the screw tip it is pretty narrow and if it is bent at all replace it. This makes double sure that that part of the carb is functioning properly. You should install it back on the machine and see if it fixes the problem.....text limit double post coming

 

However i'm betting that both of us really have the same problem and it's that the float is set a bit high. There are 2 ways to test this and both have flaws.
1) Look up the specs online and then measure what you have. The problem is that specs on chinese quads are hard to find and then they assume a perfect world. So if you slightly mismeasure or something is a bit wore out it may be 'in spec' but still wrong.
2) Good ol trial and error. Pick a place to measure from on the end of the float (and use same spot and ruler every time) measure what you have. Make a tweak, reinstall, readjust and see if better or worse. The downside to this meathod is time. It takes a while and wastes more fuel (your gonna spill some removing the carb repeatedly). This is my prefered method because if the first way doesn't work your here anyway. Remember a 1/32 adjustment is huge and can take you from flooding (sounds like you are a bit) to starving for fuel.

 

I know it isn't pretty and it may not be 'in spec' but the way I see it is if the bike is running right then it's set right.

sorry for the several posts but my only way online is my ps3 and I can only enter so much text.

 

My bad I got my l & r mixed up..... My quad only idles fast enough to continue running with the adjustment screw turned fully clockwise, any less and the idle gets very slow and eventually stalls. All other problem are as described above.
Mike, I have had issues similar to yours when it would only run at about half choke no matter what, All I needed to do was clean the Carb and that issue went away and it ran like a top for about a month until my most recent issues arose.

 

sup bro I still haven't had time to mess with mine but to hear your problem I still say either air/fuel screw or float outta whack. I don't know how many times I put a float 'in spec' just to have a bike run like crap. Start with the air/fuel screw.
1)Run your air/fuel screw in until it stops DO NOT TRY TO TIGHTEN IT OR YOU WILL BEND IT, THEN IT IS TRASH!! Now back it out 2 turns (this means two 360 degree circles alot of people do 2 half turns)
2)Get the bike warmed up.
3)Fiddle with your idle screw so it idles about 1000 (some like 1200 pick your favorite and stay with it) if your like me and don't have a tach then you know what it should sound like at idle so make it idle a bit fast (not as accurate but it does work)
4) Start slowly turning air/fuel screw in/out to find where the bike idles fastest and doesn't bog down when you snap the throttle open
5)return to step 3 and keep this up until air/fuel screw only makes things worse.

 

again I say make sure the air/fuel passage is clear and the screw is not bent before you begin. If this doesn't fix it then your float is outta whack I already explained how to fix this earlier. Is a suck *** process
1 tweak float,
2 tweak air/fuel,
3 didn't fix it? return to step 1

but you can get it right the more I think about it the more I think I forgot to clear air/fuel passage on mine lol. This carb was horrible it took over 30 min to get the float needle out. Oh the joys of making a part you literally found both fit your bike, then make it work right. Guess it doesn't matter now since we only have about 6 hrs to live (12-21-12 prphicy lol)