Hey fellas. I just bought (2) mini 110's off the internet. One starts and runs, the other will not even turn over. When the starter spins there is a fuel smell coming from the tailpipe but no spark. I took the spark plug from the working unit and tried the non-working unit to no avail. I also checked all the connections to see if a pin was bent or anything but found nothing.

Tomorrow I plan on taking the coil from the working unit and placing it on the non-working unit...

Does anyone have any idea what else might be wrong? Any help would be appreciated.

 

When you say you don't have spark, did you actually do a spark test (outlined in the next paragraph), or are you just inferring this from the quad not firing when you crank the starter?

To test for spark, take out the spark plug and hook it back up to the ignition coil. Hold the plug threads securely up against the engine block while starting the quad up normally (all kill switches into the run position, and cranking the starter motor). Do you see sparks jumping the plug gap at about 10 times per second?

Some important questions:

1) Did you do the actual spark test, or this something that still needs to be done?
2) Are these two quads identical?
3) Are these quads brand new?
4) Has the bad one ever run in your presence?
5) How many pins on the CDI on the bad quad? 4? 5?
6) Do you have a radio remote (remote start/stop) module on this quad?
7) Do you have a tether pull cord kill switch? (A rubber type plug on a pull cord that is usually (in practice) tied to a rope going from the quad to the parent. If the parent pull the rope, the plug comes off - killing the engine).

The answers to the above questions will point us in the next direction to take. Warning: It is very possible that you will need a meter to measure resistances and voltages down the line from here. So you might be thinking about where to borrow one, or even purchase one. A really good meter can be had these days for about $25 (or less on sale).

 

Hello again...
Wow! Lynn your questions are awesome and thanks for eagerly helping me out! It's obvious you are the electrical genius!
Before I could read any replys to my post I finally got the battery fully charged(I'm assuming everyone gets rid of these cheap batteries and gets a walmart battery?) I swapped out the coil from the running unit(both atv's are brand new) and the spark plug...still no spark. I pulled the safety cord plug off and noticed the switch had actually pierced a hole through the plug on the safety cord. I pushed the switch in with my finger, pressed start and bam it fired right up! Problem solved!
Hey Lynn, do you know why the brake light would be on constantly? I messed around a little with the front brake to see if that was causing it but I had my hands full so I just unplugged the harness until I had more time to deal with it.

 

When I need a new battery I go to the cheapest source - which is usually walmart. But those batteries are made in China too, as are many of the ones at the autoparts store.

But you've got to check your charging system too. A new battery isn't going to last long if your charging system is not working.


There you go... You figured it out .

Usually front and rear brakes have a switch on each of them in parallel (side by side) such that either of them in the "brakes applied" position will light up the brake light. CAn you find the connectors to each brake switch (front and rear)? If you can unplug them one by one until you find which connector is turning on the brake light. The next step is to see if the switch is adjustable...