Hi everyone i'm new here. Just got a snul 110cc atv used. the throttle cable and the spark plug wire were broken. I replaced the throttle cable, carb, cdi, ignition coil, and left switch.and recharged the battery. Still doesnt start... When I jump the starter soleniod/relay with jumper cables it fires up and runs. I then replaced the solenoid/relay and no start....inline fuse looks good. I cleaned the connections. any suggestions? Also in the process i removed the starter from my tao tao 110cc atv I need to know how to get to the chain to put the starter back together

 

The solenoid closes when 12 volts is applied across the two small wires going to the solenoid. This drives current into a coil, which generates a magnetic field, which sucks down a steel plate (making a very noticeable "click" sound), which shorts the two big terminals together - just like you did when jumping across the solenoid.

So you don't have 12 volts on the two small wires (and no noticable "click" sound). Right? If so, I suspect your brake switch. The quads have a safety system built in that won't let the starter motor turn unless the fuse is good, the ignition switch is on, the start button is pushed, and the brakes are applied.

The 'brakes part is to keep someone from starting up a quad in gear and accidently 'lurching in to something or someone. It's the same idea as your car, where you cannot start it up in drive or reverse.

Turn on the ignition, apply the brakes (front and back). Does the brake light illuminate for both the front and back brake switches? If not, the brake swith(es) are very likely your problem.

 

Thanks for the input and I was assuming the switch also. The brake light is broken off and the wires to the light have been disconnected at the harness conne ction shortly before the light. Which wires would I cross the bypass the switch. I picked up this quad for parts for the tao tao 110 I have for my kicks. So before I throw more money into it I wana see if it can at least run then I'll get a new switch and fix it properly. I understand the safety of the switch its only to test it. Also do you have a higher resolution picture of your elec diagram?

 

update on the snul. i noticed alot of play in the tether connection so i pulled the end off and manually pressed the switch in side. the battery seemed dead so i jumped if off my truck's battery and it started for 15 sec. I disconnected the jumper cables and when I tried to start it again the starter just clicked and got really hot. Is this due to the jumping with the truck battery? or do you think there is a bad wire to the starter maybe a ground issue?

 

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Note the path starting from the positive battery post:

1) Positive battery terminal to the fuse.
2) Fused power to 1/2 of the two section ignition switch (the other half of the ignition switch is to kill the engine when switched off, which has nothing to do with cranking the starter so it is ignored here, and not drawn in either).
3) The output side of the ignition switch goes to the input side of the brake light switch.
4) The output side of that switch goes to the start button input. The output side of the start button goes to the starter solenoid actuating input connection (one of the two small wires).
5) The other small solenoid actuating wire is grounded, and goes back to the negative battery terminal.

So get a meter and set it to measure DC volts on the 20 volt DC scale. Place the black lead on the negative battery terminal for *all* the tests. Use the red lead to probe the circuit as described above. Follow it through. Measure 12 volts on the battery, on the the output side of the fuse, on the output side of the ignition switch, on the output side of the brake switch....

Follow the path 1) though 5 above. Find out where 12 volts fails to get to the next place. Thene you know where the problem is. But if you get to step five is should be zero volts since it is the ground return. If you gave 12 volts here your ground return wiring is bad.

 

Tether (pull cord engine kill) connections have nothing to do with whether the starter motor turns or not. So right off the bat I'm totally confused. Are you implying that fiddling with the tether (kill) connection allowed you to crank the starter? Please explain, since this makes no sense whatsoever.

Once again, we're missing *huge* details. You jumped to your truck and it started for 15 seconds. What does that mean? What happened at the 15 second mark? It stopped? But why? Did you shut it off? Did it shut off on it's own? Was the shutdown sudden, or did it falter and cough before shutting off. We're not there with you. You need to look at what you post from the vantage point of someone who is not there, and has no idea what your doing...

So it started fine off your truck battery (nothing wrong with jump starting to your truck as long as you get the polarity right), but then on the quad battery the quad won't start, and the starter gets hot? Or is it the starter solenoid? This makes no sense too. Please explain. What exactly gets hot when cranking from your quad battery? When jumping to your truck battery (again, a perfectly legal thing to do as long as you get the polarity right), nothing gets hot? That's a hard pill to swallow.... Spill your guts. There's a lot here that doesn't add up. More information please...

 

turned out it was the magneto i took the cover off and I think that is why it only started when I jumped it off my pick up or a battery charger. the lower coil is visably burnt and discolored

 

Was the coil that burned up the battery charge winding (less turns of heavier gauge wire compared to the AC Ignition power winding)?

If so, be careful or you could burn up the new stator too. That coil is not supposed to be able to burn up. It is inherently current limited when driven from the magnets in the flywheel. But if your voltage regulator is shorted (bad) the battery will discharge backwards through the regulator and through the battery charge winding. That could burn up the coil, except your fuse is supposed to blow instantly to keep this from happening. What size fuse to you have coming off the battery? It should be 7 amps. This might also explain why your battery is always going dead.

 

Ok to try and answer some of your questions LynnEdwards and ask some more
The starter relay does click. It clicks enough to move. There is two wires coming from the relay (not the large red wires) that where they go into the harness the same colored wires have opposite connection. Meaning the green wires are both female. When I first got this the wires were connected male end to female end even thought this changed which color went to which color.
To bypass the brake switch do I just connect the two wires that don't run to the light?
Pull cord engine kill seamed played out so I pulled the tether and was manually pushing the small button that the teather cap would normally press. May have just been coincidence.
At about 15 seconds it shut off I'm assuming the quad starting and kinda lurching forward just made the jumper cables come loose and it shut down. I'm not exactly sure.
The starter not the relay was extremely hot after trying to jump start it again after it ran briefly like I just described.
The magneto was visably burned out on the lower coil. I replaced the magneto and the voltage regulator is coming tomorrow so I will replace that too. The fuze seems to be the original fuse (there are no markings to indicate fuse type). I tried a quick start since the regulator is on its way tomorrow. Still just clicks for a minute then nothing. I'm assuming the starter works since I've seen it start a few times, but is that just another case off assuming making an *** of me?
I'm going to do as you suggested and test the system. Only problem was the picture you posted doesn't load but the diagrams you emailed me work.
How do I go about testing ground? Adding a ground wire, is that possible? Seems like the slapped together harness bunching together in a bunch of ground connections then only grounding with the battery to the engine could use another hook up maybe directly to the frame?

 

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