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snul 110cc atv no start

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  #11  
Old 12-24-2012 | 10:08 PM
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lynn
I sent you a message with some questions. But if you happen to look here first. I cleaned the starter and put some marvel mystery oil in the head and crankcase. After sitting since Ive last posted the engine seems easier to crank. but no spark. Running your 5 pin cdi no spark diagnostic and hit a BRF right off the bat. Ac ign power is reading 1 . ohms not 400 or so. I'm assuming since its not 1.0 ohms on the screen but 1 . ohms im reading an infinite reading. why could this be?
 
  #12  
Old 12-24-2012 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by metroid_killer@hotmail.com
lynn
I sent you a message with some questions. But if you happen to look here first. I cleaned the starter and put some marvel mystery oil in the head and crankcase. After sitting since Ive last posted the engine seems easier to crank. but no spark. Running your 5 pin cdi no spark diagnostic and hit a BRF right off the bat. Ac ign power is reading 1 . ohms not 400 or so. I'm assuming since its not 1.0 ohms on the screen but 1 . ohms im reading an infinite reading. why could this be?
If your resistance of the AC Ignition Power winding is reading infinite while measured right at the stator then that is a problem. Sounds like a bad stator.

Before buying a new stator I would doublecheck those readings (to eliminate measurement error). Also, take the stator apart and look to see if there is something you can see and fix (like a broken off wire).
 

Last edited by LynnEdwards; 12-24-2012 at 11:52 PM. Reason: spelling
  #13  
Old 12-25-2012 | 11:38 AM
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This is a new stator. the original one had visable damage to one of the coils. i replaced it and the volatge regulator. i adjusted the pick up coil to see if it was too far from the raised bump on the flywheel. I have your cdi diagram it is 5 pin. I have a typical wiring diagram that you have supplied prior.
Is there any further tests i can do before determining that the stator is bad?
what range should i be testing the resistance? My multimeter goes from 200-2000k
Is there any normal voltage readings from the stator during cranking that I should be checking for? If so from which wires? And at what range should I be testing at?
removing the kill switch wire from the cdi did not bring back spark


thank you and merry christmas
 
  #14  
Old 12-25-2012 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by metroid_killer@hotmail.com
This is a new stator. the original one had visable damage to one of the coils. i replaced it and the volatge regulator....
Before you had damage to the battery charge winding. The AC Ignition power widing is the other coil (the one with many turns of fine gauge wire). Refresh my memory: Do you have the stator with two coils mounted side by side, or do you have a stator with 6 coils mounted radially (like the arms of a starfish)?

Originally Posted by metroid_killer@hotmail.com
.... i adjusted the pick up coil to see if it was too far from the raised bump on the flywheel....
Make sure the raised bump doesn't hit the pickup coil. 0.025" clearance between the top of the raised bump and the pickup coil is a good rule of thumb.

Originally Posted by metroid_killer@hotmail.com
.....Is there any further tests i can do before determining that the stator is bad?
what range should i be testing the resistance? My multimeter goes from 200-2000k...
Use the 2K ohm scale (same as 2000 ohms). That will allow you to measure resistance in the 400 ohms range with the best resolution. For the stator to work you must be able to measure continuity through the AC Ignition power winding. It consists of a single continuous piece of wire wound around a steel core. It is thousands of turns of small gauge wire (and a fairly long lenght too), but it is just a single piece of wire so you must be able to measure the reistance through it. If you can't then the wires is broken somewhere inside the coil, or the wire leading to the start of the coil winding, or at the far side where it gets grounded.

Is the AC Ignition power widing wire color at the CDI black/red? Is the wire color at the stator the same color? And you measure the reistance from the black/red wire at the stator to chassis ground you still read open?

Originally Posted by metroid_killer@hotmail.com
....Is there any normal voltage readings from the stator during cranking that I should be checking for? If so from which wires? And at what range should I be testing at?
...
The stator AC ignition power winding should put out 35 to 80 volts AC with the CDI disconnected at normal cranking speeds. A slower cranking engine will put out less voltage. So use the 200 VAC scale.

The trigger wire will put out 0.3 volts (or so depending on the meter) at cranking speeds. Use the lowest AC scale you have. Hopefully that will be 2 volts AC, or 20 volts AC.

Originally Posted by metroid_killer@hotmail.com
...removing the kill switch wire from the cdi did not bring back spark

thank you and merry christmas
Yes, that certainly eliminates the kill switch as a possible culprit.

Merry Christmas to you too .
 
  #15  
Old 12-27-2012 | 10:01 PM
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Hey Lynn
Thanks for all of your help. Heres some answers to the last exchange of questions.

As far as your CDI check list

Method 1) no spark
Method 2) resistance is infinite

1) infinite
2) 123.3 200 ohm scale
3) 0.0 200 volt scale once i release te start button there is a small spike then drop to 0.0
4) .1 200 volt scale once i release te start button there is a small spike then drop to 0.0

A) 1.3 200 ohm
B) .1 200 volt
meter goes from 0.0 for a second or two up to .1 or .2 for a brief sec then back to 0.0

The original stator the lower coil not the coil for the AC Power was the one that was damaged. Stator has two coils. Upper coil goes to AC Power and still tests infinite at the wire where it is soldered to the coil. Originaly this project did come to life for a few seconds.

The battery is toasted. It holds 11.88 volts but will not even make the starter crank. This is when you suggested the motor maybe too hard to turn or bad starter. I disassembled the starter and cleaned it and it works fine. I put a little marvel mystery oil in the crank case and in the engine through the spark plug and let it sit for a while. Now it cranks as smooth as my tao tao 110.

So it seems the new stator from motopartsmax.com sucks right out of the box. Do you have a better source for parts? Also on motopartsmax.com they offer a full wave and a half wave magneto. The half wave is the one I had ordered because it matched the best to the picture on the screen. Was I right? Do I use half wave or full wave?
 
  #16  
Old 12-28-2012 | 11:39 PM
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My comments in blue:

Originally Posted by metroid_killer@hotmail.com
Hey Lynn
Thanks for all of your help. Heres some answers to the last exchange of questions.

As far as your CDI check list

Method 1) no spark [OK]
Method 2) resistance is infinite [OK]

1) infinite [Absolutely Wrong]
2) 123.3 200 ohm scale [Good]
3) 0.0 200 volt scale once i release te start button there is a small spike then drop to 0.0 [Wrong, and this jives with an open AC Ignition Power coil in the stator]
4) .1 200 volt scale once i release te start button there is a small spike then drop to 0.0 [This sounds believable. It certainly isn't as glaring as no AC Ignition Power on a 5 pin CDI]

A) 1.3 200 ohm [OK]
B) .1 200 volt [Believable fro a CDI with no power.]
meter goes from 0.0 for a second or two up to .1 or .2 for a brief sec then back to 0.0

The original stator the lower coil not the coil for the AC Power was the one that was damaged. Stator has two coils. Upper coil goes to AC Power and still tests infinite at the wire where it is soldered to the coil. Originaly this project did come to life for a few seconds. [Wow. Sounds like a bad stator.]

The battery is toasted. It holds 11.88 volts but will not even make the starter crank. This is when you suggested the motor maybe too hard to turn or bad starter. I disassembled the starter and cleaned it and it works fine. I put a little marvel mystery oil in the crank case and in the engine through the spark plug and let it sit for a while. Now it cranks as smooth as my tao tao 110. [SO this is not the issue...]

So it seems the new stator from motopartsmax.com sucks right out of the box. Do you have a better source for parts? [I don't. I don't run a repair shop so I don't have a lot of experience about what is good and what is bad. Plus, I think it varies. I suspect MotopartsMax doesn't make their own line of parts. I suspect that they purchase them in big lots on the open market. They can get a bad batch of parts (like any other distributor), and then get stuck in the middle. On one side the OEM vendor says all their parts are tested and fine, and on the other hand a bunch of clueless motorheads are always trying to return electrical parts left and right - most of them perfectly good (I'm not talking about you of course ). They're just a distributor. They don't have engineers on staff waiting to analyze every returned part. Their very small profit margin doesn't allow for that.

When buying from any low profit margin mass market vendor you can only look at their reputation first, and then you take your chances. And if you get screwed be vocal. Post in every opinion/review site that you can. Make their life harder. If everyone does this, and they persist in teeing off a lot of their customers, they won't survive. If they are proactive and tee off only a minority of customers (while pounding on their vendors for better quality at the same time) they will survive. Again you take your chances. Cheap comes at a price.] Also on motopartsmax.com they offer a full wave and a half wave magneto. The half wave is the one I had ordered because it matched the best to the picture on the screen. Was I right? Do I use half wave or full wave? [The half wave rectified stator is by far the most common. Look at your old (burned up stator), and concentrate on the burned up winding (the battery charge winding). Does one of the ends of the battery charging coil tie to chassis ground? If so that clinches it. You have a have wave stator.]
 
  #17  
Old 12-29-2012 | 08:53 AM
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I swapped out the stator with the one on the tao tao and i did have a spark. The stator from the tao tao looks to be half wave. i tossed the old burnt out one away while cleaning the basement. The basement is small and i share my "shop" with my wood "shop" the washer, dryer, deep freezer and extra refridgerator (my gf extreme coupons) so there isnt room to save old components. I wish i did I would have built the two bad stators into one.

Seems now that there is a lack of gas going thru the carb which is new. I'm going to try reinstalling the plunger at the top of the carb and hope that solves the problem.

Once I get this thing going I just might badger my gfs uncles into giving up one of the two old honda 3 wheelers they own and put one of these automatic 110 power plants into it.

I'm sure motopartsmax doesnt make the parts. There are quite a few sites based off these little atvs that look like cookie cutter webpages all offering the same parts. All items have a 30 day return and its been over 60 so oh well.

Id like to thank you for all of your time and help with this. Everyone I know wonders how I pull off fixing complicated things with machinery and everytime I say join a forum there will be someone who has done this before and has the secret info the rebuild book doesnt tell you. Again thank you and if it gets going I'm gonna send you a thank you pic of my kids having too much fun
 
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