110 electrical problem
#1
110 electrical problem
ok here's the deal. I was tired of the cheap chinese batteries always going bad so i fabricated a box under the seat for a 12v mower battery. I hooked it up and it worked fine, made an adjustment to the battery box and I was re-tightening the pos terminal and hit the frame with the wrench like an idiot. Blew atv's main fuse, i replaced it and now it does nothing. If I cross the starter solenoid it cranks. PLZ Help!! Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
#3
hmm....sounds odd to me
I dont see how touching the + post to ground should fry anything. I'm suprised it even blew the fuse since it wasn't part of your wrench made circut. Are you sure you didn't pull a connector loose while rerouting the wiring? Or it sounds like you got a wire pinched somewhere and it's grounding out.
#4
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I agree with mudmike. Grounding the plus battery terminal to ground should make lots of sparks but shouldn't blow the fuse since none of the current went through the fuse. Something else is going on.
Here is a common wiring scheme for the starter motor cranking circuitry for 110cc quads:
Since none of your "12 volt powered stuff" is working that doesn't leave much to check. Make sure you have power on the output side of the fuse, then on the unswitched, and switched side of the ignition switch.
Also, be sure and check your ground return wire from the engine chassis to the negative battery terminal. If that is open nothing will work. Come to think of it, when you grounded the positive battery terminal to the frame, *all* that current had to come back through the ground return wire. I would look extra careful at this wire....
I'm also wondering about all your "cheap chinese batteries" going bad. My quad is almost five years old and I'm only on my second cheap chinese battery. My first battery went bad because I had a bad regulator that was overcharging the battery. I bought my now 4 year old battery at walmart. It is 7 amp-hour and cost about $30.
Are you sure your battery charging system is working right? Are you putting the battery on a maintanence charger when stored for long periods? Batteries that are overcharged, undercharged, or stored while partially charged are quickly ruined, and your mower battery isn't going to be any different in this regard.
Let's get the quad up and running, but then let's come back and check out your charging system with a meter (it's easy to do).
Here is a common wiring scheme for the starter motor cranking circuitry for 110cc quads:
Since none of your "12 volt powered stuff" is working that doesn't leave much to check. Make sure you have power on the output side of the fuse, then on the unswitched, and switched side of the ignition switch.
Also, be sure and check your ground return wire from the engine chassis to the negative battery terminal. If that is open nothing will work. Come to think of it, when you grounded the positive battery terminal to the frame, *all* that current had to come back through the ground return wire. I would look extra careful at this wire....
I'm also wondering about all your "cheap chinese batteries" going bad. My quad is almost five years old and I'm only on my second cheap chinese battery. My first battery went bad because I had a bad regulator that was overcharging the battery. I bought my now 4 year old battery at walmart. It is 7 amp-hour and cost about $30.
Are you sure your battery charging system is working right? Are you putting the battery on a maintanence charger when stored for long periods? Batteries that are overcharged, undercharged, or stored while partially charged are quickly ruined, and your mower battery isn't going to be any different in this regard.
Let's get the quad up and running, but then let's come back and check out your charging system with a meter (it's easy to do).
#7
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#8
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Yes. Ignition key failures are common. You can always test it with a meter.
One wire should have 12 volts on it all the time (usually a red wire).
Another wire should have 12 volts only when the switch is turned "on".
If you have 4 wires on the ignition switch, the other two wires are ground (usually green) and kill (usually blk/wht). Those two wires get shorted together when the ignition switch is turned "off". But these two wires have nothing to do with the starter motor cranking.
One wire should have 12 volts on it all the time (usually a red wire).
Another wire should have 12 volts only when the switch is turned "on".
If you have 4 wires on the ignition switch, the other two wires are ground (usually green) and kill (usually blk/wht). Those two wires get shorted together when the ignition switch is turned "off". But these two wires have nothing to do with the starter motor cranking.
#9
It seems after looking at your diagram and advice it has to be in the key ignition not letting power out the other side. Is it possible to just use a toggle? No real need for the key since the little guys quad sits in the garage when not in use. If so the is grn-ground, red-power, black-12v, black/wht-kill? Thanks again for the help!!
#10
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Yes you can replace the ignition switch with a toggle switch. But I wouldn't do this on faith. I would measure those wires with a meter. It isn't hard, and there are other comon causes too. For example, bad connectors, open wires, creative wiring from previous owners, etc.
Does the 12 volt get switched through the ignition switch? Measure it. Did you do this? Personally I would not proceed until this is done because this is the right and easiest path to th solution...
And remember you have 4 wires. So you need a double pole double throw switch. And remember that one pole of the switch shorts two wire in the "on" position (red and black), and the other pole shorts two wires in the "off" position (green and black/white).
I'm assuming your wiring harness uses standard color code (which is a good bet)
Does the 12 volt get switched through the ignition switch? Measure it. Did you do this? Personally I would not proceed until this is done because this is the right and easiest path to th solution...
And remember you have 4 wires. So you need a double pole double throw switch. And remember that one pole of the switch shorts two wire in the "on" position (red and black), and the other pole shorts two wires in the "off" position (green and black/white).
I'm assuming your wiring harness uses standard color code (which is a good bet)