After reading 2manytoys sticky on adjusting CATV'S carb's am I better off buying a new carb (higher percision machining, possible higher performance) before going through the adjustments laid out by 2manytoys? Vehicle ID shows engine family: 12A1T, IDLE mixture: non adjustable and the carb is stamped TT.5XY.053 - BL211K4 with a sealed float bowl (I would have to drill out mounting screws). I don't want to waste my time with the OEM carb if I'm only going to get "so-so" results for my efforts.

 

My understanding is that after 2008 or 9, the carbs on the Chinese quads are not adjustable...... Better off just getting a new one of eBay or some such place.

 

Thx frozen - do you or anybody else have any knowledge on which specific brand(s) and model(s) of carb will work?

 

I was searching around and came on this site after reading a couple of threads about hopping up my little 110 taotao. Seems the mikuni knockoffs on eBay were the way to go. around a 26mm version if i remember right. I believe one of the members here named Mywifesquad ad some really good info on the subject.

try a search under his name.

 

Thanks again Frozen ~ I'm new to the forum and I'll see what I can find.

 

I look at the pictures available for the carbs and make sure it's the same type choke and that bowl is removable and jets adjustable.

 

I got bored and decided to apply what I could from 2manytoys tuning CATV carb's. I first drilled and moto-tooled the heads off the float bowl mounting screws. Inside of the float bowl and all the components were spotless. Removed all removable parts and pieces from the carb body and cleaned with spray carb cleaner. The jet holes on the main jet are extremely small but i verified that the holes were clean by using a light and mag glass. With all that done, I disassembled the venturia? (is that the word I'm looking for?) assembly. I discovered that the metering needle ONLY has 1 slot machined in for the lock clip so I'm not able to use the raise or lower clip method to adjust rich/lean. Reassembled carb and reinstalled on the machine and there did seem to be some improvement in both idling and acceleration. Enough improvement to justify going through the procedures. However, I still have the cold start problems. I've tried just about everything I can think of as far as different methods to use as a starting procedure (full choke, half choke, no choke, no throttle, part throttle etc.) After several starting attempts I can get the unit started but only at a complete idle. If I try to give it any amount of throttle it dies and I have to restart it. After warming up everythings fine. I can let the unit cool down for 45 min to an hr and it restarts at the first hint of the starting motor. So, some questions for anybodys input.

There is room in the throttle slide that I could insert a small washer underneath the lock clip on the metering needle which would basically give me the same effect (raise the needle height) as if I had additional lock clip slots machined on the needle. Correct? Does anyone think this will help with the cold starts?

I should add that I can get the unit started with 2 or 3 tries using a little shot of carb & choke cleaner. I don't unit starting fluid as it's too potent.

I'm using the 9A battery that it came with. I bring this up because I've seen situations where the starter cranking speed seemed to be slower than what the engine wanted to start. I trickle charge the battery when it's parked but I have some higher cranking amp batteries out of my jet skis(wrong physical size to fit) that I could hookup. Worth a try?

Finally, I'm using Mobil 1 as my oil. I don't really think that the vescosity of the crankcase oil is slowing down the starter cranking speed in that small crankcase. I do have a magnetic oil pan heater that I guess I could give a try.

I would appreciate anyone's and everyone's input. I'm just one of those people that really appreciate any piece of internal combustion equipment when it starts on that first crank.