ok yep i opened the white fuze holder and there is 2 one connected and a spare . the one connected seems to be fine though

 

okay, next thing you need to do is get power to it either the battery, or if you have a car battery and jumper leads you can connect it that way, did you manage to locate the starter motor, it will be a part of the engine that has only 1 wire coming from it and should be red

 

i got a car battery in the garage but i dont think it has a full 12 volts might be a little weak but i could try. and yes i found the starter this is it right? Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

where is the tube from the gas tank cap supposed to go?

 

that's the starter motor good work, the hose on the top of the cap is just a breather hose, to test the starter motor if you get jumper leads and connect them to a battery, then connect the negative side to the frame or motor somewhere, then put a screwdriver in the positive jumper lead, pull back the rubber boot covering the starter and touch the terminal there with the screwdriver, this will engage the starter motor and turn the engine over, if there is no ignition it wont start, but you will know if starter works or if engine is seized.

Great work with your progress, take small steps and learn bit by bit, given some time you will be assisting others on the forum with things you have learned along the way.

an engine needs 3 things to run air,fuel and a spark...4 if you want to include compression

 

here's some pics of some different styles of solenoids, (starter relays). you got one, as stated, you gotta trace out the thick red wire coming off of the positive side of the battery to it. it connects to one of the posts, then the other post goes to the starter. some have fuses on them some don't. some are on the starter. BUT, you have one, sometimes they're zip tied to the frame near between the battery and the starter somewhere. it's there. you can find it. on testing starters, i personally pull the starter off and test it on the ground with jumper cables. on your fuse, don't just look at it, use your voltmeter/ohm meter to test it for continuity. visual inspection is ok, but you may not pick up a break in it if it is at one end of the fuse itself. batteries, they're cheap, get one from walmart, they're $40 and have plenty of CCAs. you could have a dry cell.
NEVER, NEVER RUN A QUAD WITHOUT A BATTERY INSTALLED. THE CIRCUIT WOULD BE INCOMPLETE AND YOU'LL BURN UP THE WIRING OR OTHER COMPONENTS.

 

The advice I was giving re powering starter was to make sure the engine turns over, not to actually fire it, waste of money getting a battery is engine is seized

ps nice work with the pics, I am terrible at posting pictures, they never work, I do disagree with any cheap battery will have enough cca to turn it over, I had to get a 14a 230 cca battery to turn over a 250 I have, after most of the bike shops said 9a will do it

 

well, i got the "walmart" batteries on my polaris 330, my honda 250, and my Eton 150. plenty of CCAs for those machines and have zero issues. i don't consider them "cheap". here in Texas, that's about the going price for batteries where i live.
surely there's a way to roll the engine to see if it's seized.

 

I paid $110 for my battery here in Australia

I'm not sure of any other quick and easy way to tell if the motor is seized short of pulling on the side casing and turning it by hand. I have always found for a quick test of motor turning over, and starter motor working is a zap to the starter from another battery