No spark raytech crt125 atv
Dec 28, 2019 | 12:03 PM
#1
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Weekend Warrior
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No spark raytech crt125 atv
After a couple of years my chinese atv won't start - getting no spark. I followed someones diagnosis with measurements (results pasted below) if it helps out but so far I have replaced the CDI, the coil, the spark plug and the stator. I orignally thought it was a Coolster 3125 but the badge says Raytech CRT125. Can someone help with trying to diagnose? Thanks in advance:
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure? --498 ohms
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure? --145ohms
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure? --48V
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure? --.1V
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure? --0.7ohms
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector. --0V
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure? --498 ohms
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure? --145ohms
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure? --48V
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure? --.1V
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure? --0.7ohms
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector. --0V
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Dec 29, 2019 | 03:50 AM
#2
Elite Pro Rider
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From: Lancaster England
Your trigger pin voltage seems a little low, not sure 0.1v is enough to fire the CDI. One thing missed off, well 2 things, the earth wire to the CDI must be checked and be good, or it will blow any new CDI you fit. Also the kill wire, it needs to be earthed with ignition switch one way, open circuit t'other. Your new CDI has to be the right one too, on kill wire, some need earth to run, some need earth to kill.
Jan 12, 2020 | 12:38 PM
#3
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Weekend Warrior
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Thankyou for the response. I disconnected the wireless cutoff switch at the CDI and now I am able to get it to run but once the atv is running the key won't turn it off and also the manual cutoff switch won't switch it off - the only way to kill the engine is to plug the pin I disconnected at the CDI. Does this mean that the wireless cutoff switch is the problem? Thanks!
Jan 13, 2020 | 02:58 AM
#4
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From: Lancaster England
The problem may be the wireless switch, but if you disconnect something, that too may cause a problem. When disconnecting wireless remotes, you sometimes have to join two wires together, but first find out which wire goes where, from it.
Jan 13, 2020 | 06:22 AM
#5
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Weekend Warrior
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Ok so figured it out! Took a little wire tracing (and cutting/splicing wires) but I traced the problem back to a round plastic piece on the back of the ATV. This part was grounding the black/white wire which also had on the circuit the manual cut off switch, the wireless cutoff switch and the keyed switch. I am trying to find out what it is but it doesn't seem like it is necessary because I wired everything back up again with it not plugged in and everything is running just fine now.
It is weird because one of the first things I remember doing was disconnecting that pin at the CDI but I may have also had a bad spark plug or another part because I replaced that and the coil in between then and now. Thank you for responding and helping out!
It is weird because one of the first things I remember doing was disconnecting that pin at the CDI but I may have also had a bad spark plug or another part because I replaced that and the coil in between then and now. Thank you for responding and helping out!
Jan 18, 2020 | 03:05 AM
#7
Elite Pro Rider
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From: Lancaster England
"Sink plug" kill switch with the rubber "sink plug" bit missing. This fits like a sink plug into the white plastic bit and keeps the button in the middle down, a cord from the plug can be held by a "responsible person" following the quad on foot and, if the learner rider gets into trouble, a yank on the cord pulls the plug out and stops the bike.
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