Hopefully someone can help me figure this thing out. I bought a TaoTao ATA110B, off FB marketplace for my niece for Christmas. I own a Carbide 7151 go kart and she loves it. I thought maybe if I got her one, we could go riding together.

So, I should have been more patient but I got stuck with this. Broken ball joint boots, lots of front end issues but it did run sorta. (The dude idled it too low.) I redid the front end, new tie rod ends, new boots, regrease. New carb, redid the gaskets. Changed the oil (Manual I found said 15w40) and added a new spark plug. I fired it up and didn't have the back brake engaged. The front end was still on a jack stand, and the ATV went off the jack stands (no front tires). It didn't hit anything in the carport other than the concrete floor. Next day, wouldn't start. Found a capacitor broke off the kill switch box (9 wires I believe, big black box). Consulted some forums, they said to remove it, it would be fine. Ran again.

Had it running pretty good, it would hiccup/bog under high throttle. I just assumed it was a carb adjustment issue.



Christmas Eve day, I take it just a tenth of a mile to make sure it will be ok for Christmas Day aka "The Big Reveal". It ran normal for it, until I got back and it just died. Still had electrical but motor just stalled. I tried to fire it back up but it never would run.

Things I've done (in order):
- Connected the tether switch in back, complete delete. Connected wires together using inline crimp or butt connectors is what I think they are called. Not running still.
- Replaced the battery with a 5 series, came with a clapped out 4 series. Charged it using a 1 amp charger. It's one of those science experiment ones where you add the acid. Not running.

Took out spark plug. Wet. Very clean, it's maybe had 1 mile on it. Oil looks good.

- Ordered from reputable parts house a new handlebar kill switch, voltage rectifier, CDI, coil. Replaced all of those last night. Still not running. Spark plug wet.

It will turn over but just never fire off. Gas line is clear and I can see fuel (I replaced it with 5/32 and new filter). I use VP racing fuel in the gallon can that you get Tractor Supply which is what I run in my Carbide and never have an issue.

Do I need to buy the kill switch set up and install that? Is it an internal engine issue? I'm not scared to turn a wrench but I have no idea at this point what I'm missing or not diagnosing. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

 

Never replace parts until you have checked them out to see if they need replacing. First thing to do with an engine that won't run is to check for a spark. If you have a spark, change plug anyway but start looking for a blocked carb. If you don't have a spark, do the tests in the help diagnose stator sticky at the top of this page. That should tell you what is wrong. With regard to the remote kill box, some you can just delete, some need some wires jumping together, If it ran after you removed it, looks like you don't need to jump anything.

 

So my recommendation is to pull the plug boot off and check for spark. then check to make sure its an actual plug connector I had one that had a clothespin spring to make the spark plug connection. It was doing what you describe.

 

I did the stator check list. AC stator, I was getting none of the values. (AC Voltage wasn't reading right when using starter to turn over engine, and ohms were off.) Going to replace stator since I am not getting no where near the voltage in the sticky. Ignition trigger pulse didn't even read voltage.

 

In my experience both voltage and resistance can be all over the place, the point on resistance is, either open circuit or no resistance, bad, anything else, probably OK.