Someone ought to have a readily available solution to advance the ignition timing for alcohol. some people using the extra lowend timing of a woods box combined with modifying the pickup sensor mount. i had a vortex CDI custom programmed with extra timing. there ought to be something that anyone can quickly get to advance their timing without having to do their own custom modifications or programming. people on alky not running extra timing are missing out on some throttle response.

maybe even flywheel hub with relocated bolt holes. but that would have to be done very precise or the assembly would be out of balance.

 

does the msd adjust that way?

 

not that I know of.

if the MSD had a little more timing it would be great.

http://images.50below.com/facility/d...net/graph2.jpg

http://images.50below.com/facility/d....net/graph.jpg

 

I took off my RW cdi and installed the MSD. I felt I needed the rev limiter. Called RW to get the specs on their box and they said they didn't know(???) just what Rotax said was good. I don't feel my bike is pulling as hard with the MSD. I am running it 7degrees over stock,start at 1500 rpnm , all in at 3250 and rev set at 9500. Any comments or suggestions.

 

The woods box has full timing at idle, so with the woods box you'd feel more power at 1500RPM.

The MSD has more spark energy and I think it has multiple sparks, so it should improve efficiency. You might need to jet up if this leans you out a little.

If running gas, you could try taking away a few degrees to see if it might of had too much timing.

 

Between adding an intake snorkle and putting on the msd, I have gone from a 142.5 main (MK 45) to a 160, the last size I had with me. It started running @ the 155 jet, so I think I still need to play around with it. As to the timing, I may try to bring it in sooner and not run quite as much advance. I run 110VP so don't have a problem there.
Sure hope to meet up with you someday on the sand. I would really like to see your bikeand share a brew with you.
Thanks for your help.

 

I've found that tuning those carbs works best by starting from known good jetting or close, work from the pilot circuit & accelerator pump, to the needle, to the main jet, in that order. The needle position has the most impact on midrange sharpness and acceleration crispness.

 

Thanks. I bought Punishers TVI720 and am starting with what he already had. When I had the carb out, I went to check where the clip was and it wasn't. I mean, it just came out of the top by itself with a magnet. After 'closing' it up a little, I put it back in the middle position. So far I am doing as you suggested. I have found that a 27.5 pilot gives me the right adjustment range with the air screw (sputter turned in, sputter turned out, halfway for setting.) It started with a 40 and you could take the air screw out without making a difference. Punisher did not have the accel hooked up so was probably compensating with the rich pilot. I am using a 50 nozzle with .075 air gap to the pushrod and have the stroke set at a little less than half throttle. Since I don't have a dyno available, my tuning sessions are limited to complaints from the nieghbors. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] Next step now that the main is at least in the ballpark is to figure out the clip posistion. It looks a little more complicated than the pilot or main. I quess the 'messing around' is as much of the fun as riding. Or not.
Thanks for your help.