250x carb adjusting question
#1
Ok well I just tore down my carb and I am cleaning every thing out. I did find out that the 2 O rings that are on the adjustment screws were shot.( I believe thats where the leaking gas is coming from) Well my question is the long needle that goes down the middle of the carb it has a C clip on the end of it that looks like it can be move to make the needle longer or shorter. right now it is set in the middle should I leave that alone? and once I get the carb put back together how do I go about setting those 2 adjusting screws? And is there any other advice yall can give me while it is torn apart. Thanx!!!!
#2
The needle is for fine tuning the mixture. Dropping the needle (making it longer) leans the mixture. It causes the needle to stick further into the main jet and allow less gas to be drawn through it. Raising the needle (making it shorter) richens the mixture by allowing more fuel to pass through the main as you squeeze the throttle. I would leave it in the middle unless you need to make small fine tuning adjustments to the mixture.
As far as the screws go.
One is the slow/idle circuit. Start with 1.5 turns out from closed and fine tune it to get the stumbles and pops out as you squeeze the throttle. There is a more scientific approach to this, but you will get the idea as you turn it and feel/hear the changes.
The other screw is the idle adjustment screw. It holds the slide/needle at a position to affect the idle RPM. Try screwing it in (not all the way) and slowly back it out as you find the proper idle RPM. Make sure the engine is fully warm to avoid cold engine bogs, etc.
As far as the screws go.
One is the slow/idle circuit. Start with 1.5 turns out from closed and fine tune it to get the stumbles and pops out as you squeeze the throttle. There is a more scientific approach to this, but you will get the idea as you turn it and feel/hear the changes.
The other screw is the idle adjustment screw. It holds the slide/needle at a position to affect the idle RPM. Try screwing it in (not all the way) and slowly back it out as you find the proper idle RPM. Make sure the engine is fully warm to avoid cold engine bogs, etc.
#3
So when I had the carb on it was running very rich so I should move it up a notch to make it longer. And as for the adjustment screws. I know about the idle screw there is on screw on the side of the bowl and if you loosen it gas starts coming out of the hole on the side of the carb. The other adjustment screw is on the bottom of the carb. Both have a slot for a flat head screwdriver.
#4
the screw at the side of the bowl, where gas comes out, is for you to drain the float bowl, if you went through water or had some other contaminant in your fuel then you'd open it to drain the crud. the screw at the bottom/underside of the carb, it's kinda thin for a tiny screwdriver, is the pilot screw. that one i'd suggest turning all the way in until it seats lightly, then back it out 2 full turns and fine tune from there. the more you turn it in, the leaner you run at low/idle speeds, the more you turn it out, the richer you run at idle. that could have been why you were running rich too.
it should idle around 1400 RPM, idle is easy to adjust on side of carb..
it should idle around 1400 RPM, idle is easy to adjust on side of carb..
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armpump450r
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Apr 1, 2017 06:11 AM
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