i have the new bearing and im going to get a clymer 400ex manual tomorow but i want to know now if i have to take out the axel to replace the bearing

 

Yes. wheel's, hubs, and disk brake flange. but this is easy. just take the brake rotor off before you pound on the flange. those rotors can get $$$. And a bent one will cause probs and drag.

 

Hardest part of getting the axel off of my warrior was the axel spacer .. it was seized onto the axel and caused some trouble ... WD 40 is a wonderful thing and now it's well and truly coated in anti-seize

 

yes, read the manual. put the carrier in an oven or lightly use a torch to heay up the OUTSIDE of the carrier where the bearing sits. this will make the bearings fall out. otherwise, you will not be able to get them out that easily. also, put the new bearings in a feezer to make them shrink a bit. this will make them go in the carrier better. you may even have to put the carrier in the oven a bit for the bearings to fall in. they will drop right in and out using these techniques.

 

^^ Those are good suggestions .. never thought about that before [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] ... I just drove my bearings and seals out with a drifter, and it was really hard work too ... hafta keep that in mind for next time [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I especially like the freezer trick!

 

yeah, been doing the bearing replacement for years and my 250R is the hardest as they put a inner sleeve inside the carrier which makes using a drifter extremely hard. I will try the oven and freezer technique next time [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I've never had a hard time using a long drift and right size bearing driver to reinstall. I usually don't remove the carrier itself unless I think it might be broke. The axle does have come out tho. The heat isn't a bad idea, but I don't think it's necessary if you drive the bearings evenly and have the right tools. I have an electric griddle at work I use for final drives...parts you have to usually grunt on, like the pinion shaft lock nut come apart really nice. The propane torch would be my last choice. The oven or griddle heat the work much more completely. Temps much over 200F aren't recommended for aluminum except as a last resort.

 

yeah, it is extremely easy to do when the carrier is heated. this is what we do and it saves a quite a headache.