OK i am all assembled. Now do I keep the shipping oil in for break in, or dump it and add my own. I recall some conversation here about that, but cannot find it now. Engine oil and trans oil or just engine???
Also I tried to mount the front tires on backwards so it would be wider, but the valve stems rub afgainst the front brake assembly. So I put them back on normal, but realize spacers are going to be a must have now. Anyone know a spot to get the widest max spacers I can get on there, perhaps 3"??? Lastly I have heard several mention of removing the Air restrictor, is this a plate w/ a small hole in the air filter assemblY????? Thankyou again for all your help along the way.

 

I would change the oil in both before running it. Engine oil at least.

Not sure who makes wheel spacers, but you could possibly get shorter valve stems.

I think I have read some where to leave the restrictor in during break in. The first few hours.

 

You can leave the "shipping oil" in the machine for a normal break-in of 10 hours.

The engine and transmission on the 110s share the same oil reservoir; use 20w50 oil, and fill until the sight glass on the right side (passenger side) is between the "H" and "L" marks.

 

You only want to run the shipping oil for around 2 hours TOPS & then change it, you can buy wheel spacers here: http://www.speedtrapmotorsports.com/

 

Why only 2-hours? Just to test the myth of the shipping oil, I ran a machine for one complete year on the "shipping oil" and when I drained the oil and inspected the motor, it looked just like the machines that had the oil changed regularly. The shipping oil being a lower quality than that of our oils is a myth; granted the shipping oil is no Castrol Syntec, but it is more than adequate for 10-hours of riding on these machines. Changing the oil more often in any vehicle is more conservative, but also more time consuming and expensive when it does not need to be done.

Oil quality is rarely the culprit of engine problems; rather quantity is the culprit 99% of the time. If you overfill, there go all your gaskets and seals; if you underfil, the engine may cease. I have a 13-yr old Bolens mulching mower with a 4-hp Briggs on it, that I have never changed the oil in...only made sure the quantity is correct, and have had no problems with it...doesn't smoke, starts on the first or second pull, and is very reliable. Granted this is not a good common practice for all IC engines, but it does tend to prove a point. Moreover, the more modified an engine is, the harder it is run, and the worse the conditions that the vehicle is run in, all effect when the oil should be changed. The reason we wait 10-hours is to allow an adequate break-in time (to allow the engine to finish the minor internal machining of the parts) before changing the oil. We then change the oil every 20-hours thereafter, or if the engine oil appears contaminated.

In short, if you want to change the oil more than necessary, go for it; it can't hurt the engine. However, in my opinion it's a waste of money and time.

 

So, is there only one fluid to change in the 110? In the manual, it says it's has "engine oil" and "differential oil".

Is there 1 fluid or 2?

 

You can buy the wheel spacers from Speedtrapmotors they have the stud style. I bought the 5" ones from them.

or you can pay a little more for some solid wheel spacers from Raceways Wheel Spacers.

I just finished modding and test riding my daughters Kazuma 150 MKII and finally got it stable. The wheel spacers help alot. New tires help alot. Also check the front tire toe in. It makes alot of difference. Also while your waiting on the wheel spacers you can flip the front tire to the inside stems in to gain about 2-4".