Hey all,


I have a 2001 Honda 400EX...

It had a new clutch installed about 8 months ago, and a new clutch cable...

If you are at idle, at a stop, the gears are VERY, and i mean VERY hard to change... While moving its normal, when turned off, its normal..

The clutch lever is fairly hard to pull, when compairing it to my Z400...


Are there adjustments some where that can fix all/some of thease problems?

Thanks for the help,

-ThaChad

 

Have you tried adjusting you're clutch?

 

Umm.... Let me repeat....

Are there adjustments some where that can fix all/some of thease problems?


In other words..... HOW do i adjust the clutch... WHAT adjustments are there?

-ThaChad

 

Only two adjustments that basically do the same thing. One at the handle and one down at the end of the cable where it connects to the engine. You should adjust it so you have a little play in the handle (about 1/4-3/8")

Have you replaced that cable yet? That is the first place to check and the clutch cables are known to go bad and cause a hard pull.

If it isn't this, then it could be your shift fork or your clutch pack.

/Jon

 

I did try the adjustment on the handle... I adjusted it to that the clutch would start to catch about 1/4" from all the way pulled... But then it seams the clutch isn't disengaging 100%, and maybe slipping when all the way out.... Because after adjusting i went for a ride, and in 5th gear, the engine wasn't even reving out...

I didn't replace the cable, but the cable looks pretty new, The clutch was worked on about 8 months ago, i'm not sure exactly what was done as this is my cousin's ATV i'm just working on it for him...

This ATV wont go into nutral while the engine is running.... I don't know if thats normal for the 400EX, but i know my Z400 goes right into nutral with no effort...

-ThaChad

 

if the shiftlever itself is stiff then take it to the stealership and take the ****-lube b/c you are about to get raped. tranny problems are not cheap.

 

How do you lube the cable?

If i understand it right there should be 1/4" slack before the clutch lever begins to pull on the cable? On mine there is no slack. I guess that could be some of the problem...

Does anyone else have the same problem of not being able to get the tranny into nutral when the engine is running?


Thanks,

-ThaChad

 

I know this reply is only 9 years late but i have heard and seen (on forums) so many times this same exact problem. The 3 symptoms i used to diagnose the problem are 1: "THE CLUTCH LEVER IS VERY HARD TO PULL" yes that could be a bad cable or even a pinched clutch lever perch but not with the other 2 symptoms. 2: "WHILE THE ATV IS RUNNING, IN NEUTRAL AND NOT MOVING, IT IS VERY HARD TO SHIFT INTO A GEAR." And the golden situation... 3: "I JUST HAD CLUTCH WORK DONE".

PROBLEM: YOUR CLUTCH SPRINGS INSIDE OF THE MOTOR, UNDERNEATH THE BOLTS ON YOUR CLUTCH BASKET ARE ENTIRELY TOO TIGHT AND IT CAN CAUSE SERIOUS TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS (chipped gear teeth, bent shift forks etc...) IF IT IS NOT FIXED.

THIS IS A LONG POST BUT I DESCRIBE HOW TO DO THIS BETTER THAN A CLYMERS MANUAL WITH MORE DETAIL, EXPLANATION OF HOW EACH INVOLVED PART WORKS AND EASY SELF TESTS AT THE END TO MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN THE "GOOD ZONE" FOR CLUTCH SPRING TORQUE. PLEASE RATE POST OR LEAVE A COMMENT. THANK YOU!

THE FIX: remove the 2 oil lines running into the motor side case and either plug them or let it drain. Remove the clutch cable from the clutch actuator arm on the motor. Remove all side case bolts and then CAREFULLY remove the side case cover. (You will have to wiggle it alot because the case has dowel pins in it to properly align it during reassembly.) set the side case down with the gasket facing up and make sure you dont lose the clutch actuator arm spring thats inside the case. Now you are looking at your clutch basket. The big wheel in the center with 5 or 6 bolts (i forget how many a 400ex has) surrounding the big nut in the center. Underneath each bolt there is a very strong spring that naturally expands. These springs provide the neccessary even pressure on the clutch plates to transfer power from the clutch shaft to the transmission then to your rear tires. When your are not pulling the clutch lever in these springs keep the cluth plates stuck together ("engaged"). When you pull the clutch lever in, you are actually pulling on that face plate (the clutch basket cover which the bolts and clutch springs sit on) against the force of the clutch springs in effort to overcome the combined springs' tension and separate the clutch plates. ("Disengaged") Right now in your case ("the chad" and whoever else is having this problem) is that your clutch spring adjustment bolts are screwed in to much causing too much pressure on the plates to the point where the platesdo not separate and the clutch stays in an "engaged" state. Either get a Clymers manual from amazon or the closest honda dealership. This isnt a must but it will help you alot. In the manual, turn to the index, find "clutch assembly" or clutch torque specifications. (You can find the torque specifications for the clutch springs online also but the manual is your savior). If you dont have a torque wrench get one, you cant do this PROPERLY without one. Once you found the clutch springs torque specs, set the torque wrench as specified. Completely remove all clutch spring adjustment bolts(you can leave the springs in the holes). Now WITH YOUR FINGERS ONLY put the bolts back in one by one. Once they become to tight to turn by hand, use the torque wrench. TIGHTEN THE BOLTS EVENLY!! And in a star pattern!!! As you would lug nuts on a car rim. This cannot be stressed enough. KEEP TIGHTENING EVENLY IN A STAR PATTERN. Your torque wrench will make a snap sound when the bolts are at the correct torque. Reassemble the side cover, oil lines and clutch cable. A good clutch test to see if you did it correctly and the springs are tight enough is: PUSH your quad up to a tree or something that wont move. Start the motor in neutral, pull the clutch lever in, click down into first and let the clutch out how you normally would. If the motor stalls the springs are tight enough if the motor keeps running the springs are too loose and you have to repeat the process. A GOOD TEST to check if the springs are TOO TIGHT: With the ATV NOT running, switch it into first gear,pull he clutch in and try too push the ATV forward. If you can push it with little or no resistance (compared to pushing it in neutral) your springs are NOT too tight. If you can not push the ATV or its difficult and you can hear the piston moving, the springs are too tight and you need to loosen them a little.

ALWAYS perform these 2 tests after "clutch work" to avoid serious damage to your clutch and transmission.

FOLLOW THIS POST EXACTLY AND YOU WILL NOT HAVE THIS PROBLEM ANYMORE.
(NOTE: if you want to save your oil either drain it from the motor AND THE RESERVOIR or stand the quad on its side with the sprockets facing the ground and plug the oil lines running into the motor side case when you take the side cover off.).

 

I dont think there are torque specs for the bolts that hold the springs. I had the honda manual and could not find any specs.

 

Wow, yea your right there aren't specs for it. I was thinking of another quad. my fault. Anyway, tighten the bolts down tight but don't over tighten. You will snap the head of the bolt right off. Go over your clutch plates one last time to make sure they are in order (alternate clutch and friction plate every other time) and you have the correct number of plates in there. The last plate (the one closest to you is supposed to sit in a different groove than the rest of the plates. so make sure that right also. Make sure you have the correct springs in the clutch. Ive seen people put different springs in the clutch from different quads, motorcylces etc... and make sure the springs are within the correct serviceable length. (refer to manual page 138 figure 20). Also make sure your clutch actuator arm, the return spring and knuckle are seated in the side case properly.

You can still do the 2 tests i mentioned in my previous post and they will still give you the same information. jagr is correct there arent torque specs for them.