I have a 500 polaris 2003, It starts with a rough idle and a mist of gas comes into the air breather. I have clean all jets, no water in gas. when I try to rev up...it stalls out ...
it also has a problem sometimes when I put it into gear at idle, it starts to engage and the bike moves at idle speed...I think that might be the belt or clutch,,right? help

 

what is the idle set at. should be around 1200 rpm's. is it the same spit and sputter you get when the override isnt pushed in reverse? does the throttle have at least an 1/8" play so the etc is not kicking in? just a couple of things to check.

 

my 500 polaris will idle fine, but once i appliey about 1/8 of throttle, it starts to bog down and backfire. idle is set at 1180rpm, i torn into the clucth drive and it was still pinching the belt to make it engage, once i pulled on the belt, it free itself and works fine now...this has happen before and when i was riding it , after awhile of riding it, it free up again...what could be causing this?,,,,i still have the problem when i attempt to rev up it bog down and backfire. i torn the carb apart today and found that the seat valve has alot of wear, does anyone know were i can buy a rebuild kit for the 40 series carb for a 2003 500 polaris?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: zeususa50

my 500 polaris will idle fine, but once i appliey about 1/8 of throttle, it starts to bog down and backfire. idle is set at 1180rpm, i torn into the clucth drive and it was still pinching the belt to make it engage, once i pulled on the belt, it free itself and works fine now...this has happen before and when i was riding it , after awhile of riding it, it free up again...what could be causing this?,,,,i still have the problem when i attempt to rev up it bog down and backfire. i torn the carb apart today and found that the seat valve has alot of wear, does anyone know were i can buy a rebuild kit for the 40 series carb for a 2003 500 polaris?</end quote></div>


If it's backfiring through the carb I bet your exhaust lobe on your cam is gone.

I posted this a while back and instead of linking I just copied it for you.


I have seen a lot of ebs models have this problem. There could be other issues but without seeing the machine I cant tell. Anyway what is going on is there are two washers in the ebs clutch(the one way drive clutch) that can get worn, a brass one or the fiber one can get ruined and be completely gone. If your belt shreds, belt threads can tear this fiber bushing out. It can wear out on its own, etc. What happens is the one way clutch has too much side play. When the belt comes off the inner clutch face it needs to physically move away from the face to allow the one way clutch to do its job(which is allow the driven clutch to stop turning, or slow way down to almost a stop). If there is too much side clearance the belt will push the one way clutch toward the left side but won't pop off the clutch face causing the driven clutch to turn. Therefore making it hard to shift, creep, and a lot of times the machine will pop through the carb(if applicable). It's very similar to having the idle set too high(harder to fix though)

Ok to fix it you need access to the special tools to totally tear the clutch apart. Not just get to the spring and buttons, I mean tear it completely apart. Sometimes you can just replace the brass(i think it's brass) washer and the fiber washer, reassemble and you will be ok. Sometimes if there is too much wear on the inner clutch face you are going to have to completely replace the clutch. A lot of times you can fix it this way. Bear with me I will try to make this understandable.

Depending on how much play there is in the one way clutch part of the drive clutch and how much wear is on the clutch face i have done this. Order 2 fiber bushings and possibly the brass one. I cut one of the fiber bushings to the same size as the brass one. I then in stall the new uncut fiber bushing on the clutch, the one way clutch, the cut fiber washer, the brass washer, and the cap. Reassemble the clutch and see if you can turn the one way clutch by hand. If you can, reinstall the clutch, make sure the alignment is correct, problem solved. It's my experience that if there is no side movement in the one way clutch and you can still turn it by hand it works as good if not better than new. Never had any problems after doing this.

If it doesn't make sense, get a pic of the clutch and it might help. I'm not sure how many people have access to all the tools so this fix may not be feasible but it does work well. Also, this fix is for the drive clutches that have the grooved one way clutch assemblies. The newer ones are smooth now and I haven't had to tear any down yet so I don.t know if it would apply to them. Hope this helps out.

 

you were right 94harley, that was the problem..thanks allot, is change the cam hard?

 

Changing the cam is easy in my opinion but I do this for a liviong and have done a bunch of them over the years. It's always harder the first time, harder than anytime after that. You will need a new rocker arm as well. Plus gaskets, o-rings, etc. If you decide to try and replace it yourself, when you are done, turn the engine over with the rope(not fast, very easily) to make sure the valves are not going to hit the piston jsut in case you get the cam timing wrong. Good luck.

 

Also check the intake boot for cracks, spray some carbcleaner on the boot between the carb and the engine. if the idle changes the boot is cracked , this sounds like it could be your problem

 

94harley

You were right! it was the exhaust cam. were is a good place i can buy the parts to do this from?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: zeususa50

94harley



You were right! it was the exhaust cam. were is a good place i can buy the parts to do this from?</end quote></div>

I order everything where I work but there are a lot of people on this forum that know of cheaper places to get parts. Someone will probably come along and help you with a good place to order parts.