Drive clutch rebuild
#1
After advice I need a drive clutch rebuild, simply old age I expect. Dealer quotes $500 to rebuild if I took it off the machine first.
Is this something I can do myself? I maintain most farm machinery and trucks etc so Im guessing shouldnt be too hard
What parts do I need before starting? Do I just use Std Polaris parts?
Any special tools I need?
Should I look at doing driven clutch whilst Im in there?
Help appreciated
JR
Is this something I can do myself? I maintain most farm machinery and trucks etc so Im guessing shouldnt be too hard
What parts do I need before starting? Do I just use Std Polaris parts?
Any special tools I need?
Should I look at doing driven clutch whilst Im in there?
Help appreciated
JR
#2
was at the dealership yeaterday asking that very question they told me 1 dollar a minute labor plus parts, he figured about 45minutes tops if i took it off, said ballpark would be 75 bucks although i have nothing actually wrong right now ive never changed the wear items, so thats all i asked about if you need more parts the price goes up of course but i think a new one is less than 500! try another stealership
#3
for 500. you could buy a whole new clutch. you couls take a 3/4" fine 8 to10" bolt and weld a nut or 2 nut it for a puller if you dont want to buy one. you would need a special spider puller to take apart the middel of the clucth if the buttons are bad or bushing in the middle. as far as it goes you could buy a rebuild kit. new weights, bushing,pins and buttons.hwat is actually wron gw/ the clutch?
#4
Yeah I thought $500 was way too much
The existing clutch graps when first engaging, watching the unit in operation it doesnt slide smoothly. Sort of does nothiing up to say 2400rpm, then jumps 1/4" along the shaft. With careful throttle you can make it OK to ride but something isnt right
Once belt grips a bit it works Ok but a problem when first it grabs belt
To me it looks like somethings worn or sticky and not moving when it should on the shaft
There is lots of aftermarket clutch kits but really im not asking much of the ATV and std wheels and tyres so what should I be looking at? Any recommendations?
JR
The existing clutch graps when first engaging, watching the unit in operation it doesnt slide smoothly. Sort of does nothiing up to say 2400rpm, then jumps 1/4" along the shaft. With careful throttle you can make it OK to ride but something isnt right
Once belt grips a bit it works Ok but a problem when first it grabs belt
To me it looks like somethings worn or sticky and not moving when it should on the shaft
There is lots of aftermarket clutch kits but really im not asking much of the ATV and std wheels and tyres so what should I be looking at? Any recommendations?
JR
#7
does the bike creep ahead when you put it in gear? you said jumps ahead, is the idle set to high> looking at the clutch with belt off is there any damage to the sheeves or the shft that goes thru like groves. maybe take it off the bike and take off the cover so you can move the sheeves back in forth to see where its fetching up. oh yea and the rpm engagement is way to high. it should be around 14 to 1800 rpms.
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#8
No the bike doesnt creep, idle seems nice, belt looks to be in good condition, there are no grooves etc on the drive faces.
The rpm that it finally engages is why the jerky start, I feel sure something isnt letting the thing slide early enough.
The video is great, he shows the outer bush which he presses in as being full of dirt etc, I reckon this would make sense on mine too
The ATV is nearly 4 years old but came from a farm and done 1500hrs ~ 4000 miles, mostly slow stop start work -
The rpm that it finally engages is why the jerky start, I feel sure something isnt letting the thing slide early enough.
The video is great, he shows the outer bush which he presses in as being full of dirt etc, I reckon this would make sense on mine too
The ATV is nearly 4 years old but came from a farm and done 1500hrs ~ 4000 miles, mostly slow stop start work -
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