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2006 Sportsman 450's

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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 08:00 PM
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Default 2006 Sportsman 450's

Well, I just bought a couple 06 sportsman 450s. Both are fairly high mileage units, but I got a good deal on them so I'm not complaining. One of them (with 6k miles) runs like a top, the other one has a few problems that seem like they should be easy fixes, but I don't know where to start. I've read through all sorts of posts on here and I can't seem to find anyone that's having the exact same problems as I am.

First problem, and I suspect it's just a carb adjustment is that I have a bogging issue but only in high. In low, it goes away completely. The previous owner replaced the carb hoping to fix the problem, but it didn't help. The plug comes out after about 35-40 miles with a powdery black carbon build up. I already took and dropped the needle one clip position, and it helped take some of the bog away, but it still happens whenever I go from say 1/8 to full throttle. I also dumped a half a bottle of Sea Foam in the tanks of both of them, just for good measure. I might try and drop to the last position and see what that gets me, and maybe check float height also.

Second, I noticed today while checking my carb adjustment that the AWD did not work in reverse. I checked the switch, it was in the AWD position, the indicator on the display showed that it was in AWD, but like I said, it clearly wasn't working. I think I'm going to check the hub oil, as until today i had no idea that it should be changed every 50 hours or so, and I have no clue if this has been changed lately, or if there is any in there at all.

Third, at the same time I discovered that the AWD wasn't working, I also discovered that when I back up, turning handlebars to the right all the way, the machine will shut off completely (i.e. no lights, no gauges, nothing). The previous owner said something about shoving a toothpick into the wiring harness that plugs into the left side handlebar by the override button, so I wiggled that a little bit and it came right back. I tried it again, and if I turned the bars back quickly it would come back. Common problem? Easy fix hopefully (toothpick sounds kinda ghetto)?

Thanks in advance, I only have a few more days until I head up to the Arctic and I'd really like to get this one fixed before I head out. Also, the weather here has been consistently rainy lately, highs in the 50's and when I get back, chances are that it'll be highs in the low 40's and rainy, if that helps with the carb issues. Thanks again.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 08:51 PM
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Welcome to the forum! Checking the float height like you mentioned is a good idea,especially with the plug being black. Plus have you checked the valve clearance on these high mileage machines? .006 intake and exhaust. Early models were bad about the plastic roll cage in the front diff cracking not allowing awd operation.This may or may not be the problem. Change the fluid and see if it helps,but like you mentioned this fluid needs to be changed often! Do you have a key chain on the ignition? Have had em shut off by them barely turning the ignition switch when you turn the bars. Plus if the previous owner "rigged" the left control switch, could be a wiring problem going down into the pod area or the control switch itself may be the problem. Plus I would definitely check the clutches and belts out before I went anywhere! Hope some of this helps. OPT
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 10:20 PM
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I have not checked valve clearances yet, and I'm not sure if they are truly high mileage or not, the one with the issues has about 3500 miles, the other one has just shy of 6k. I don't really know what high mileage is on ATV's, I've always been a snowmobile guy, and I know that those kind of numbers are pretty high for a sled. The toothpick thing was something that he mentioned as being a fix that people have done before to fix the same problem, but he hadn't done it to either of these machines. I know that clutch issues can also show themselves as carb issues (bogging) but wouldn't this happen in both low and high? And wouldn't a clutching issue also not give the black carbon indicator on the plug? Last question for this post, if it is that plastic roll cage on mine, can I replace it with the metal one that I keep seeing that says it fits the RZR's and 500-850 Sportsmans? I'm sure with some digging in parts diagrams I could find out myself too though.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 10:38 PM
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Like you said previous owner replaced the carb because of existing problems but it didn't help. Plus how long ago was the carb replaced,was it the exact replacement and jetting is correct for the 06 model? Have you taken the carb apart and cleaned it,etc. If ramp buttons are worn in rear clutch it's possible that low range could act ok and high could range could have limiting problems. Yes there are aluminum replacement roll cages,some members have even used John Deere cages. You can search past threads on this problem and the part numbers. Just sounds like you need time to go over these machines front to rear and do a full service along with trying to weed out the problems. OPT
 
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 02:11 PM
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OK, so I'm back from the Arctic and a well deserved trip to Hawaii for work and finally back home. And now I'm back to work on these quads and here's what I found so far. The AWD wasn't working because the 12 volt wires were chafed through between the frame and the coolant hose. Spliced them back together and good to go. Changed all fluids in them just to be safe and they were all good. I found the boot from the airbox to the carb is dryrotted to crap, so that's being replaced next. I'm about to see if the jets are correct in the carb next and give it a good cleaning while it's out. Does anyone know what jets are supposed to be in it? Also I'm going to look at the clutch buttons on the secondary clutch, and I have to admit that I'm a pretty good large diesel mechanic (Fairbanks Morse OP tech) but clutches are not my forte at all, so what exactly am I looking for in there?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:28 PM
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Look under your model machines and will show the parts breakdown on the carbs all the way down to the frame. Most clutch problems are wear on the front and rear clutch buttons along with belt wear. To work on the front clutch you need a spider tool along with a clutch puller. https://polaris.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=183&cat=1&sub=8 for the tools needed and here for the parts list breakdown. Browse OPT
 
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