What can safely be used for holding the primary clutch when loosening or torqueing the center bolt?

 

Just your hand is fine if you have an impact . Either installing the bolt or taking it out or even with the clutch tool to remove it.

 

Thanks that makes it look easy, from the manual it seems that the center bolt torques to 45 ft pounds, can you just hold it with your left hand while torqueing with your right?

 

Haven't seen anyone actually torque this bolt.I never did. Since it will hold tight on the tapered shaft,just hold it and zap the center bolt with an impact,but don't go crazy with the impact..At times mechanics overlook torque ratings. Same thing on steel wheel lug nuts. We just impacted them on. You do have to torque aluminum wheel nuts though..

 

That is what I will do, thank you so much for your expertise. I am sure I will have more questions, just learning the whole process, thanks again

 

I actually take the time to torque properly, only because Ive seen tapers get so tight that the mating pcs become almost welded, and broke stuff trying to get it off later. Never on an ATV yet but a few snowmobiles, which maybe because of hot/cold are always tight. Also and all sorts of drill/mill tool holders. It is easy just use a hammer handle through the towers. Not through the machined surface though were the buttons ride. Also get it as close to the machine with the handle as possible and have your cover on (the aluminum clutch top). Torque once, fire it up and engage clutches a few times then re-torque, you'll be suprised sometimes you get another 1/4 turn out of it. From there good to go til next time.

This is probably a better idea for a novice mechanic, i think some people overtighten and wonder why they have cracks in their sheaves, it is only aluminum. Never put anti-sieze on the tapered surface either.

 

Good reply! Never had a problem in almost 23 years of doing this,but after doing clutches almost on a daily basis you get a "feel" for this as with other things. I guess being a mechanic I sometimes "***-U-ME " people would do as I did! I do agree if this is your first time or you're not sure,just use the torque specs and just lock down the drive clutch(hammer handle,wood block) and torque to 40 foot pounds as the manual recommends. This could apply to wheels etc,especially aluminum wheels that have to be torqued properly!. Where we guys at the shop were torque specific was on all engine final assembly torque specs along with hub nut torque specs on front awd systems,along with other "critical" torque areas. You'll find most long time techs were the same way in most shops. At least all the ones I knew in our area were! Just takes a little common sense which an impact tool in the wrong hands doesn't have and a torque wrench does!