Ace’s link isn’t working.

What year is your ds? If it’s one of the later years with the relief/vent line they say you don’t need to bleed it. Mines a 2001, has the vent line and I still crack it loose and bleed it anyway. (just to be safe, it’s very simple)

To find out if yours has the vent line, follow the large braided oil line that leaves the bottom of the tank and connects to the case behind the cylinder, clutch side. If there is a tee fitting at this connection with a small (1/4” or so) line running back up to the tank, your ds has the vent, and bleeding should not be needed. If it is a straight connection without the tee fitting you need to crack and bleed the screw.

The bleed screw is located just beyond the oil filter. It has a large flat head end on it. You will need a large long flathead with a fairly thick end to crack it loose. It will be very tight, so you need a screwdriver with the right size end. I ground down the end of a flathead to make the head of the driver a tight fit with the head of the screw. Gently tap it into the head of the screw to get a tight fit and then I use chanel locks or vice grips on the handle of the screw driver to crack it loose. Ive heard others use a punch style impact, I just use what I got. Works everytime.

Remove the screw, pull the plug wires and crank the starter over until you see clean fresh oil coming out. Doesn’t take much turning. My last oil change I decided to put a small dab of never seize on the threads close to the head. Hoping this eases the removal of it next time but we’ll see. Maybe I’m wasting my time, I just see it as cheap insurance to bleed it each time even though I have the vent line.