Speedo and 4x4 stopped working a few years ago but we still rode without it. Then about 6 months ago it would not start so had a Machanic check it out as well as the other problems. He said the Hilliard clutches were bad so we ordered a rebuild kit that he said we needed for the 4x4. We figured we could live without the speedo but not the 4x4. Finally got the time to start working on it myself but needed as much info as I could so I started reading some different threads on these forums.
Read about the bypasses that “Old Polaris Tech” said to do and that’s cutting the 2 brown wires at the small white connectors, twist in a wire to the common ground. Then I checked the coil resistance 25ohms each. I took apart the AWD switch cleaned it reassembled it plugged the front coils back in, used the new armature plates turned on key, slid run switch and slid AWD and the light comes on. I checked the magnetism and armature plates are holding. I had read to measure across the coil housing some said .0015 others .002 - .004 my right one was flush Left on was -.005 -.006 so I adjusted it to .0025 Then I read last night they can be flush... who knows.....
So, I put in the new clutches and the bearing so the plate does not fall out, hub, final bearing washer and nut. I torgue it to 110 inch pounds add the cotter pin and cap with silicone around the edge so water can not get in to the O ring even. I add the ATF start it up, when in gear the back wheels turn, front axles turn.front wheels only slow creeping rotation. Tried reverse no AWD light, hold in the reverse override button now i get a light, but still no front drive. Back to forward still no turning of front wheels. However I did notice that the left front hub seems to wobble slightly but can not feel any problems.

Totally lost at this point... HELP!

 

I discovered that the slight wobble in the left front wheel was because the axle was not properly engaged in the rear by the cv joint , also when the “mechanic” who had tried to jury rig it & not got things proper he had bent the armature plates & the axle nut was not tight enufe which had allowed the bearings to spin on the shaft. I determined where the center of that was & used a spring loaded punch (so all marks would be identical), to put 4 point marks on the shaft so the bearing required a slight press to go on. This also helps to keep the stuff in place on final assembly. Cut some pieces of pipe to desired length so axle could be pulled into place & axl bearing prior to whl installation, since some said that the armatures could be flush, used washers & pipe to press outer one back to flush, using tiny hammer to tap around on washer to (insure uniformity)(evenness), put Hilliard clutch Assy on,then pressing bearing into position, holding armature plate in position by HAND, put hub on, add bearing, washer/s & nut so cotter pin hole is central of the towers on the castle nut, torque to 110/120
INCH lbs !!!!!! To get the the electo magnets to work I had to clean the grounding area & wire ends, added silver contact lube that has a little oil in it, now all works great ! SEE ATTACHED photo , sorry I did not take assy pics.
Hope all this helps someone GOD BLESS, Happy new Year WWW.sonlifetv.com

If I were doing this prophesionally I would lath off the outside of the washer so it allowed the proper .001/.0015 clearance

 

I discovered that the slight wobble in the left front wheel was because the axle was not properly engaged in the rear by the cv joint , also when the “mechanic” who had tried to jury rig it & not got things proper he had bent the armature plates & the axle nut was not tight enufe which had allowed the bearings to spin on the shaft. I determined where the center of that was & used a spring loaded punch (so all marks would be identical), to put 4 point marks on the shaft so the bearing required a slight press to go on. This also helps to keep the stuff in place on final assembly. Cut some pieces of pipe to desired length so axle could be pulled into place & axl bearing prior to whl installation, since some said that the armatures could be flush, used washers & pipe to press outer one back to flush, using tiny hammer to tap around on washer to (insure uniformity)(evenness), put Hilliard clutch Assy on,then pressing bearing into position, holding armature plate in position by HAND, put hub on, add bearing, washer/s & nut so cotter pin hole is central of the towers on the castle nut, torque to 110/120
INCH lbs !!!!!! To get the the electo magnets to work I had to clean the grounding area & wire ends, added silver contact lube that has a little oil in it, now all works great ! SEE ATTACHED photo , sorry I did not take assy pics.
Hope all this helps someone GOD BLESS, Happy new Year WWW.sonlifetv.com

If I were doing this prophesionally I would lath off the outside of the washer so it allowed the proper .001/.0015 clearance