Someone asked how to do this some time back. I can’t remember if anyone offered a simple solution. Here’s one.

The bypass operation involves cutting one wire and installing one jumper (tying two wires together):

1.Disconnect (cut) the “19 PUR” wire going to the Left Handlebar Switch Assembly “C” terminal. Be sure to properly tape and secure the loose ends. Cutting this wire will remove the engine limiter signal, and prevent the Reverse light from coming on as a result of step 2.

2.Jumper the R/W wire to the GRY/W wire. This can be done either at the 1) Left Handlebar Switch connector (terminals “F” and ‘B”), 2) the rear transmission switch connector (terminals “A” and “C”) or 3) at the "“splice blocks". Tying the two wires together at any one of these locations will give the same results. Be careful not to cut the R/W wire because this is the switched “hot” wire from the Key switch. And remember your AWD will depend on this connection.

For drivers not familiar with the circuit details, the system uses two transmission switches to perform the following functions:

1.Turn on the Neutral light,
2.Turn on the Reverse light,
3.Send a engine limiter signal to the engine control circuit while in reverse (through the 3-pole Override Switch),
4.Engage the front hubs when in High and Low range.

After the "operation", the Neutral and Reverse light will work normally, but the transmission switches and the Override Switch will not be functional with regard to engaging the front hubs (4X4); the 4X4 will be engaged anytime the AWD switch is on.

Expect the AWD light to be on any time the AWD switch is on, even in Neutral.

This information was derived from the wiring diagram of a 2001 HO –it may not apply to all models. I recommend you confirm these details using your own diagram before proceeding.

One advantage of doing the bypass this way (as opposed to installing a separate bypass switch) is that it can be reversed at any time without leaving any noticeable scares.

Good luck.

 

I would like my front hubs locked all the time when the 4x4 switch is on and not have to rely on the rear tires slipping. You seem to be knowlegable in electronics so tell me if this is possible. I think you could run a wire from a 12v source through a switch to energise the front hubs maybe with one of the diodes to keeping it from feeding back into the spedo. The reason I would like this is to have 4 wheel engine braking when going down a steep hill. Why does Polaris not have the front hubs energized all the time?

Thanks, Gardner10

 

Gardner10,

I don’t have the schematic for the electronic circuit inside the speedometer, and I don’t know the mechanics or the voltage level applied to hub coils.

However, if we assume the coils operate on 12 volts and are rated for continuous duty, and the hubs engage with the coils, there may be an easy fix.

The positive feed comes from the transmission switches when operating in low or high range, and the Override switch in reverse ((GRY/W). The negative side of the hub coil is connected to the speedometer terminal “F”. This suggests that when the wheel slips, the electronic control circuit connects (through a transistor or a thyristor ?) the negative side of the coils to the “B” terminal (BRN), engaging the front wheels.

Based on this logic, disconnect (cut) wire 41 BRN/W (terminal “F”) at the speedometer connector and connect it directly to negative potential (BRN on terminal “B”). This will apply a constant 12 volts to the hub coils whenever AWD is selected.

But here are some considerations:

1. This assumes the BRN/W is switched when the wheel slips. You could test this using a voltmeter with the back wheels lifted. 2.The hubs are not normally energized (engaged) all the time. Even when AWD is selected and engaged, the hubs will disengage after a period of time if the wheels aren’t slipping (mechanical?). This may also suggest the coils are not rated for continuous duty? I don’t know.
3.Consider the extra wear on the tires, steering and running gear if you achieve continuous 4X4 and forget to switch the AWD off.

There may be other considerations that I'm not aware of, especially the mechanics. Let me know how it works out.

Ebel
]

 

Not possible!
The AWD is an electo-mechanical system where the coils are energized when the AWD switch is made. This alone does not engage 4WD because the front axle/s must rotate faster than the front wheels to pick up the drive for each of the front wheels. The clutch assembley in the front hubs are called Hilliard clutches which operate with 6 rollers on the outside of what looks like a large hex nut and rotates inside the hub ring.
The system operates like this: when the AWD switch is made power is applied to the hub coils creating a magnetic field through an armeture plate. One end of each roller is in contact with the armature plate so when the front drive shaft rotates faster than the hub/wheel the rollers are held back due to the magnetic forces causing them to climb the ramps of the cam (hex nut) and become squeezed between the ramps and the ring in the hub effecting the rotational motion to be tranfered to the wheel.
Hopefully this is not mumbo jumbo and I explained it well enough for you to understand. If necessary I can scan the page from my manual and send it through email.

 

Ebel and Traildog, I think you are probably right on the electronic part of this Ebel. I think Traildog is the same on the mechanical. I had read in the forums several times that holding the reverse override and using reverse then shifting to low forward before going down a steep hill would keep the front engaged. By design I also had the feeling that the Hillard clutches needed the clockwise motion to keep them engaged. Therefore, even if I feed them the required current they will release when I start rolling forward.

I spent some time at my dealer this week looking at the RMK500 and the 700Sportsman. I currently have a '99sp500. I rode the RMK and the suspension is quite stiff compared to my quad. The 700 has the same shortcoming in the front diff I have now with the Hillard clutch mounted inboard. Well, I guess I will just pass on a new quad for now. I plan to keep this one for a second quad as it has been a dandy.

Thanks for your help, Gardner10