Does anybody know exactly how to remove the drive and driven clutches on a Scrambler? The manual lists clutch pullers, but I was wondering if there is a way around them.

I had a great ride this past Sunday, except for a flat we had to detour about 10 mis. to get some plugs for. We ended up at a quarry and I got into about 2 feet of water and mud, and the quad just sank about another foot. It was buried in quick sand up to the tops of the tires, and then about 2 feet of water. The front end was sticking up and the pvt was completely submersed. I found out what happens when the belt gets wet...nothing...it just stops. The water was pushing out the exhust vent clamps at the top of the pvt cover. When we finally got it out, 3 guys in the mud, I ran it for about a minute in neutral and then we went on our way.

I pressure washed it off, and greased the whole thing, I checked the starter and recoil drains...no water. I removed the pvt cover, and noticed the drive clutch engine seal looks like it leaked, but cannot figure out how to get off the drive clutch. The manual is not much help...hope some of you are.

Thanks

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Mike...99 Scrambler 400, 94 Kawasaki Bayou 400(newly rebuilt), 99 Impuls 50(Matt's)

 

Just remove the center bolt and hit it with a rubber hammer as you turn and pull it. It should eventually come off. That's how i remove mine. Make sure you clean off the shaft with a wire brush or something if it has some rust on it before you reinstall it. A little high temperature grease would prevent rust and ease in the further removal.

Chris Picciotto
99 Scrambler 500

 

Do NOT hit the driven clutch. It can do terrible harm to the crankshaft. The tool does not cost a lot of money, and will work for years. The driven clutch just slides off the shaft. The other fellow might have gotten by with hitting the clutch, but, I would never hit mine.
Good luck, Dave

 

Guys, thanks for the info. I called my local dealer, he gets better every day, the mechanic showed me what they do. They get a steel punch about 3-4 inches long and put it point first into the clutch and into the center of the crank. Then you get a 3/4 fine thread bolt and screw it into the threads inside the clutch. Then impact wrench the bolt. It pushes the punch into the crank and forces the clutch off the tapered crank output shaft. I came home and in about 10 minutes I had the clutch off. The hardest part is finding just the right lenth punch to reach into the output shaft and land at or near the fine threads the 3/4 bolt will tap into. Then just impact wrench the bolt and POP! Mechanic said the tool from Victory tools is only good for certain output shafts, so it's not really a universal fit. That's why I didn't buy it. This worked much better. The mech. also told me a lot of the rubber seals were not installed properly from the factory. Both sides of the rubber seal were to get silicone, but only the inboard side closest to the engine got siliconed. He said the ruber seal will be free because Polaris said any of them that come in with leaks will be fixed under warranty. I will install myself, with blue rtv silicone on both inside lips of new rubber seal and see if it helps.

Mike

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Mike...99 Scrambler 400, 94 Kawasaki Bayou 400(newly rebuilt), 99 Impuls 50(Matt's)

 

There is only one puller for pulling drive
clutches on Polaris ATVs. I find it hard to
believe that a dealer is too cheap to buy the
right puller. That puller also pulls most
early model snowmobile clutchs up to about 97. The driven clutch also has puller but
it rarely is needed if the shaft is kept
greased. Also the drive clutch should not
be greased at all. The crankshaft taper
should be free of rust and dry and make sure the clutch bore has no burrs.
Charlie

 

have a major problem the puller wouldnt work and stripped the threads so i got a bold and it worked , so i put a peace of ready rod in and it bend inside now i cant get it out ??? what can i do the housing is already cracked so im thinking of breacking it off.thanks

 

can't totally understand your post? you said you stripped the threads(assuming you mean the primary/drive clutch) on the inside of the clutch. you said you got bold and it worked?? what worked, and what is stuck where? sometimes when you use a primary puller and tighten it up real good w/ pressure and the clutch won't pop off, i've had to squarely hit the end of the puller w/ a hammer for vibration and then try again by tightening a little more and usually it pops right off.

 

YouTube - Changeing belt POLARIS ATV

 

haha ya that didnt make much sence.but i used a bolt that threaded in fine, so i put a peace of ready rod,basically a week screw and it bent in side the drive clutch,(the one off the motor).i talked to polaris and they said i could try and break off the clutch cause its already cracked.the reason im replacing it,that and the swing arm broke in 2(very shitt).dont wanna make it any worse help please.....

 

got ya. if there is no way of getting the ready rod out and because of the angle of the bent rod then you might very well have to somehow break the clutch off. but becareful of hurting the end of the crank shaft if you havent already messed up the center bolt threads inthe crank. good luck.