did some trading and ended up with a old lt250 4wd quadrunner,..went threw carb and cleaned it and threw a battery in it and fired it up and noticed the air box filling up with gas/oil mixed and discoverd it was coming from crank case threw vent tube to air box!! so drained crank case,..filled with oil and its running alot better but smoking real bad! figure the rings are shot from the gas, so a top end rebuild,..new timing chain and what else should i replace or do to get this thing back healthy?????

 

We have the information you seek on the ATV Connection homepage, here:

https://atvconnection.com/articles/a...the-crankcase/

 

Just to add to that, Suzukis either had a tank below the carb, fed by a fuel pump, so the stuck float needle shouldn't be a problem, or, on some models, the tank above carb but a vacuum operated tap. On RUN and RES the tap opens when it senses a vacuum from the inlet manifold. However, so you can start it after emptying the carb, there is a PRIme position which lets fuel through without needing the vacuum. Do not leave the tap on PRI, the float needle will eventually stick, filling the airbox and sump with fuel.

 

thanks for the replys!! yes it has the vacum pump and it seems t be working fine, need t mount it as it just danging by its hoses right now! what im wanting to know is what all should i replace when i tare down engine? i know rings,..most likely piston and bore the jug,..but will head need rebuilt?? should i change timing chain?? ect ect??

 

Check how much adjustment there is left on the timing chain as you strip the top end. If there is plenty left, no need for a new chain. Check cam lobes and rockers for wear, don't know that model, but the Eiger manual allows a surprising amount of wear on cam before it is regarded as worn out. Rockers are rather prone to wearing a peculiar shape though. Check valve stems and guides for wear when you remove them to fit new seals, they rarely wear much on Quads. Check bore for size and scoring, check piston for scoring and, just to be sure you are on the right track, check a ring in the bore for end gap. Be very sure the smoking isn't just oil that has got on the air filter, before going to all that trouble though.

 

well, keep pittling with the thing,...adjusted carb and valves, put clean dry air box back on with good filter and drove it up and down driveway a few times each evening this week, 7 miles in all and smoke all but quit!! just a puff erry once in a while! walk up to it cold give it just a little throttle and hit starter and she humms a purddy put put put put put like a champ!! so, on to next issue! seems to be something binding in the front end idk if its brakes or drive train issue or wheel bearings??? found a good pdf manual for the 250 2x4 any body know of a diagram of the 4x4 front drive train or any info on it???

 

All the big on-line parts suppliers will have exploded view drawings on their websites. No doubt there will be service manuals available for 1990s 250s too, Suzuki made quite a lot of 250s with the rear mounted engine.

 

its the front brakes!! any way to up date them to disk???

 

Doubtful if there will be an easy way to convert to discs, and a good set of drum brakes should work fine. I rarely service those 90s Suzukis so can't remember much about the brakes, but get everything in the mechanism free, check pistons in wheel cylinders are moving, rough drum and shoe surfaces with emery, adjust them properly and you should end up with good front brakes. I test brakes on a loose gravel road, 10mph, emergency stop with front brakes only and they usually lock the wheels right away, including older Hondas which still have drum front brakes.