Well I took the Grizzly out on its third trail ride.Most of you have read about my problems thus far.This time my wife decided to ride on the back.The Grizzly performed flawlessly.The rear brake still sticks for some reason but we had a great ride puncutated by getting to test out a mud pit at a resort that will be used for the Wisconsin ATV Assosiation annual event on Labor Day.What a blast pounding the Grizz through on its 27 inch Blackwaters.The designer of the mud course is gonna make it harder seeing how i just pounded right through.Of course my buddies stock Grizz couldn't make it.Was very happy until we got home and the Grizzly would not go into gear.When we finally coaxed it into Reverse the brake locked up solid,i mean SOLID! Rear brake locked up and tranny stuck in reverse gear,ah well.Too dark,too tired,too muddy,too pissed to care tonight.Power wash,spit shine and a new FOR SALE sign this week.I may miss it but.....good friggin riddance.

 

Sorry to read about your trouble. :-(

Remember the grizz is just another machine and like all machines without lubricants and maintenance metals wear, bind, and seize together. If the grizz is under waranty make them fix it, if not are you mechanicaly inclined?
Do you have a service manual?

I make my living operating and working on heavy equipment and anytime I buy any new piece of equipment I get a service and parts manual for it.

(Sorry to say you can't get a parts manual for a grizz, but I ordered the service manual anyway, (so says the dealers), plus the owners manual is so vague it doesn't even tell you about the grease fittings on the front drive shaft u-joints.)

If your cables and levers are not binding the rear brake drum cam shaft where it goes through the housing is probably where the problem is. I've had and seen this problem alot on all makes of atv's, and motorcycles with drum brakes over the years.(the cable lever binding on the housing, shaft seized in the housing, cable return springs unhooked, shoe springs broken or unhooked) check all these things.

When I do work on any equipment there is four items I can't do without.

1. KANO KROIL (the oil that creeps) This is the best penatrating oil in the world it will creep into a one millionth of an inch crack. It's saved me a lot of time getting things unstuck. If you can't find it you can order it direct from KANO LABORATORIES Nashville, Tenn. 37211 or call 615-833-4101

2. LOCTITE 767 Anti-Seize (nothing better)
to coat shafts or bolts with that you don't want to get stuck.

3. Emery Cloth to clean up shafts and get the rust off.

4. Amoco Rykotac EP Grease (high perfomance)
Use it on all my equipment.

Watch how you use the power washer a lot of water and mud can be pushed into places (besides ripping gaskets and seals) where it doesn't belong.

Good luck and hope you get the price you want.

As for me: Love my grizz and if it break's I'll fix it.

 

Thanks for the maintenance tips, Mborum!

I'll try the products you suggest.

I agree with you on the value of service manuals; a microfiche parts catalog with exploded parts diagrams serves well also.

While this story may be trite, maybe it's relevant: The Chinese character for "crisis" is the same as for "opportunity."

The philosphy may not be appreciated when stranded on the trail by a breakdown, but I learn more from malfunctions, and from projects that don't go right, than from "straight and level" trouble-free operation and maintenance.

Brake lockup? From experience, I learned: sometimes the brake cam "over-centers" on the shoe; when the pedal is released, the return spring force cannot return the cam past the peak (this condition usually occurs when shoes/drum are worn; hardly the case with the new Grizz--I'd check cable binding, shaft/bushing smoothness and lubrication (both brake cam shaft and brake pedal pivot), brake shoe springs, return spring; brake shoe pivots can get sticky if they're icky; maybe the drum isn't sealed correctly; from the operational scenario mentioned, likely mud has contaminated some brake system components, causing the sticking described).
If I couldn't diagnose and repair easily myself, I'd provide this opportunity to the warranty-providing dealer.

All mechanical equipment can fail; even highly qualified space shuttle components; mechanical systems often require maintenance; even Rambo's helicopter. Let's hope when our ATV's fail we have the knowledge, tools, and initiative to fix them; let's hope our maintenance minimizes those failures.

Tree Farmer

 

Read the responces.Thank you.Working on vehicles,big and small is nothing new to me.Before I got into ATV's I used to wheel with Jeeps,trucks etc.I even hand built a Suzuki Samurai with spring over axle,Chevy V-6,Turbo 350,Toyota axles and 35in tires.So I do have SOME mechanical ability. I don't know anything about the Chinese language nor do I care.I go by the "FATBOY CREED",When it breaks,fix it,when it breaks again,fix it again,if it breaks a third time sell it cause it sucks ! The facts are that I have 227 miles on my Grizzly,and have had a numerous problems.The headlight falling out got a chuckle,same as the cracked,though always empty,front rack.Muddy water in my belt,which caused my clutch to quit upshifting angered me.Driving back to the truck,at night,going 20 mph for 4 hours will do that to you.The water was NOT deep enough to cause problems.The rear brake is NOT contaminated with anything.My buddy had the prob with his(only prob he has ever had)Screw the dealer and that warranty crap.I have been wheeling 3 days with the Grizz and spent 6 days fixing it.If i took it to the dealer everytime it needed fixing I would not be able to ride this summer.TreeFarmer as far as your comment: "Let's hope when our ATV's fail we have the knowledge, tools, and initiative to fix them; let's hope our maintenance minimizes those failures" Bully for you and your pompous attitude.I accept that my Grizzly is a lemon.I am not ripping your Grizzlies just mine. I am done with it.Looking forward to riding the new Arctic Cat automatic.
Fatboy

 

Get Ya a Cat

 

Instead of pompous truisims, Mike, how's this?

"Let's hope we avoid lemons!"

I appreciate the fact into each life a lemon might fall; if your Grizzly is a lemon, you have my sympathy.

I hope you have better luck with your Arctic Cat 500 4X4 Automatic. I just received an Arctic Cat factory brochure in the mail; very impressive machine. The engine/transmission gets high marks in the Suzuki Quadrunner 500 Automatic tested by the ATV Connection.

Why, exactly, did the brakes lock on your Grizzly?

Best wishes.

Tree Farmer

 

Sorry to hear of all your problems you have had with your grizzly. As for mine only thing i have had trouble wwith is flat tires. the stock tires suck. well goodluck with your AC 500 4x4 auto looks like a really nice machine.

Mud600

 

Gees this all sounds too familiar, I wonder if Gordon ever reads the yamaha posts? Nah... he's over in the Polaris section ripping on someone else. Gloating over two year old data about polaris and honda owners that means squat to todays machines.

I think that this just goes to show that whether it is Honda, Polaris, Kawasaki, Susuki,Artic Cat or Yamaha (did I miss any?) anybody can produce a lemon! I've seen posts from folks that have had major problems with many different makes. Keep in mind that I haven't had the first hand, eyewitness view that some supposedly have had that its only one make alone that comes limping out of the woods each weekend. But I feel pretty confident that from a review of these postings that things really seem fairly equal as to problems encountered between brands. Not wishing anyone had a break down just to make things equal, only to show that it happens!!

Mike, I sympathise your pain and hope you find an ATV that works for you instead of against you! I have been following your saga and wish you the best!

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Donald J. Dickinson 99 Magnum 500, 99 Sport 400L Ooh yeah!

 

Sorry to hear about your Grizzly. I too am considering trading my Grizzly for the 2000 CAT Auto. I have a 98 Grizzly with 1100 miles on it and I have had some issues with it, however I use it for a tractor more than anything. I pull up firewood, pull a trailer, pull a brush cutter, landscaping, etc, etc.

My main issue is that under the heavy loads I subject it to it gets HOT. The dealer installed a new cooling fan and switched me to YamaLube 4R synthetic blend and no oil temp light since, however it still gets hot, and begins to sputter until I let it cool off.

The likes of the Cat are;
Suspension - Semi-indepedent, smooth ride
Brakes - Disks all around, no drums
Auto Clutch - Proven on snowmobiles for years
Engine - Suzuki proven torque monster
Cooling - Liquid = Not HOT, but heavier

The dislikes of the Cat are;
Tires - downsized from 26" to 25" for 2000
2WD/4WD - lever/cable operated, must stop, no engage on the fly like the Grizzly
Engine - 100cc smaller, claims higher torque

I don't know, I may hold out for a possibly liquid cooled Grizzly for 2001 model year. I have to make a decision soon as I need to purchase a winch and snow blade for something before winter. My new house has a 650' driveway. I would hate to buy everything for the Grizzly and then trade over to the Cat in six months. I will refuse to pay full retail for the Cat this fall if they are going to be on a limited release. I will wait.

------------------

 

I'm still going back and forth about my Grizzly.There is allot to like about them.I want to ride the Auto Cat first then i'll make a decision. By the way does anyone know any aftermarket suppliers for new brake pads and shoes for the Grizzly? My budddy needs to replace his and the dealer wants $100 just for the parts. I saw on Highlifter.com that they have some products out their to help fight the engine temps.Definately will look into this if I do keep the Grizz. A far as shifting in and out of 4wd I was under the impression that the Grizzly had to be stopped to engage/disengage from 4wd.
fatboy