Concentric Drive Swing arm Bushings - Replacement
#1
Well I haven't had any problems due to the swing arm being loose but I will fix it anyway. I still only have slight movement side to side. Should I wait until it gets worse?
I am looking for pointers. From the looks of it, it seems like a straightforward job. I know I have to remove the clutch assembly to get the left side swingarm bolt. I want to know what to expect. Are the swing arm bolts going to come out or are they a b@#$ch? What about the large nut on the right side bushing? Do I need to use the large diameter (1" and up) loctite or can I just use the red loctite. Where do I actually apply the loctite? How much torque do I put on the right side bushing nut? I purchased the 2 right side bushings + washer, and the left side bushing. Will I need anything else? I do have a socket large enough for the large swing arm bolts. Is the bushing nut the same size socket?
I am looking for pointers. From the looks of it, it seems like a straightforward job. I know I have to remove the clutch assembly to get the left side swingarm bolt. I want to know what to expect. Are the swing arm bolts going to come out or are they a b@#$ch? What about the large nut on the right side bushing? Do I need to use the large diameter (1" and up) loctite or can I just use the red loctite. Where do I actually apply the loctite? How much torque do I put on the right side bushing nut? I purchased the 2 right side bushings + washer, and the left side bushing. Will I need anything else? I do have a socket large enough for the large swing arm bolts. Is the bushing nut the same size socket?
#2
Just putting mine back on now after some shock mount mods. You'll need a 1 3/4" socket, and red, and only red loctite. According to the shop manual, you should use some of loctite's primer also. As long as you use a non-residual cleaner (brake cleaner) you should be o.k., but the primer is the best. They get torqued to 150 ft/lbs. You're right, it's not that bad of a job. As long as things are apart, it's kinda a good time to clean and repack the rear carrier bearings, and install new seals. Grease the snot out of it even after you get it back together (the rear carrier that is) if you have any air pockets, once you sqeeze grease through the zirk, you will force that air into the bearing and the grease out. Excess is best here. By no means a gospel, just my experiences.
Ken Thompson
Ken Thompson
#3
I've got my Scram apart and see first hand what happens if those swingarm bolts come loose. The right side loosened up on mine, the bolt oblongs the hole and works its way forward until the driveshaft bearing plate stops it. If it would have been left any longer I would be buying a gearcase too, instead of just having to weld up this area and reinforcing it.
#5
The bushings were new last year...done by the previous owner. They are still in good shape. The bolt was never loc-tited and came loose so every time the rear suspension is compressed fully, the tightness of the chain pulls that side of the swingarm forward, oblonging the hole. I'm going to build a plate to weld over top of the damaged area.
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KimSJoh
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
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Jul 18, 2015 07:20 PM
arm, bushing, bushings, concentric, kenneth, movement, nut, outlander, polaris, reinforcement, replacement, size, swing, swingarm, thompson
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