What to look for when buying a 2001 SP500
#1
My coworker bought a 2001 sportsman 500 new & now wants to sell it to me, what do I need to look
for ? Ive only seen if from a distance & know its yellow, I will go check it out this weekend & need some
things to look for to determine its condition.
Its suppose to be a great deal to me only for $3500 ? Any sugguestiions on what to check for would be
a great help. Thanks Chuck
for ? Ive only seen if from a distance & know its yellow, I will go check it out this weekend & need some
things to look for to determine its condition.
Its suppose to be a great deal to me only for $3500 ? Any sugguestiions on what to check for would be
a great help. Thanks Chuck
#2
Catawba huh? I live in Morganton. See if he will let you run by Fun Cycles or the one in Granite Falls and let them look over it for you. There are aot of things that can't be seen that a mechanic might notice right away. If he won't let you, then make sure the air filter is clean, airbox clean, that says alot about the maintenence on it. Make sure the steering is tight, no up and down, can be fixed cheap, but.... Make sure 4wd works good, make sure it engages and dis engages good. Listen for noises in the tranny, front differential, cv joints. All I can think of. So where do you work in Catawba?? You PM the info If you want, just curious if I know you.
#4
Some of my notes -
Engine doesn't smoke when started.
Starter and battery are solid
Front hubs engage and release properly
No slop in the steering post
Wheels don't wobble - which can be a bent axle or bent wheel. Check in 4x4 and 2x4- jacked up
hubs are not dry - check for oil at 5oclock - look for metal. Should be green or red.
grease fittings should show some sign of grease - also in the U joints etc. - reflects being serviced
CV boots not torn
brake pads not worn to nothing
If its full of mud, like behind the side panels, the owner didn't take very good care of it.
look for damage to speedometer ring - means it was rolled
Speedometer works - lights up?
lights work - brake light works?
winch works ? Freewheels?
runs up to about 50+
look for signs of the frame being pulled - paint cracked etc.
front A frames are not damaged
Cooling fan starts after warming up?
Tracks straight with little pull to either side
Handelbars are not bent
Brake, throttle mounted solid
Brake foot peddle is solid
Brakes are smooth and solid - not mushy
look at the bottom, is the frame worn dented or crushed from bottoming out on rocks?
Is the aircleaner and air compartment spotless?
do you see antifreeze in the bottle?
Is the oil clean and full? Ask to see the oil and service records.
When were the valves last adjusted?
Tires - 1000 miles and they should still be like new - or 80%
Look for leaking front hubs - there will be oil on the inside of the wheel.
Look at the frame tubes under the foot rests and in the back - are they plugged with mud or clean?
Steering tight?
______________________________
Farmr wrote -
All that I can think of to add would be grab each wheel and try and wiggle it. Try and wiggle the top in and out, as well as side-to-side play. On the Sportsmans, I recommend doing it on all 4 wheels. This is easiest to do with the machine jacked up off the ground. If you feel looseness, have a buddy wiggle while you look. The seller will probably do this for you if they are the honest sort. Don't sweat tie rod ends, they are known to work loose, are easy to replace, and the new replacement ones are far better than the older ones. Worry a little about looseness in the A-arms, both front and rear, where they attatch to the frame. Not a big deal, but if the machine was greased regularly, it should go quite a ways before any looseness shows (I had 5000 miles before I notied ANY looseness at all in the front end of my Xplorer. I have 7200 and it is still just barely wiggles. Keep in mind I grease mine VERY religiously, with the best grease I can find, though.) The bushings are not all that expensive, and aren't that hard to replace, but if you find a little play, it might give you a little more bargaining power.
Worry more about: looseness in a wheel in all directions, which doesn't seem to be coming from loose suspension components. This means bad wheel bearings. The rear ones are less of a worry than the front. In reality, the front bearings should NEVER get loose, if the hub fluid has been maintained properly. The rear bearings do wear out (they don't run in oil, and there is no way to add grease to them, when the grease dries out, they need replacing). As long as there is no 'clunk' a little looseness in the rear wheels is OK, just keep in mind you will need new bearings, and the sooner the better.
Lastly, check the weephole at the water pump seal. This is a tiny little hole drilled in the casting, below the water pump, pointing straight down. Just follow the hoses from the radiator, and you will be able to figure where the water pump is. One hose will come out of the top of the engine, the other down lower. It is right where the lower hose attatches to the engine. These go about forever on a trail machine, and wear out quickly in one buried frequently in gooey mud. Sometimes, it is just a little damp, but that is the start of a leak.
Good luck,
Farmr
Engine doesn't smoke when started.
Starter and battery are solid
Front hubs engage and release properly
No slop in the steering post
Wheels don't wobble - which can be a bent axle or bent wheel. Check in 4x4 and 2x4- jacked up
hubs are not dry - check for oil at 5oclock - look for metal. Should be green or red.
grease fittings should show some sign of grease - also in the U joints etc. - reflects being serviced
CV boots not torn
brake pads not worn to nothing
If its full of mud, like behind the side panels, the owner didn't take very good care of it.
look for damage to speedometer ring - means it was rolled
Speedometer works - lights up?
lights work - brake light works?
winch works ? Freewheels?
runs up to about 50+
look for signs of the frame being pulled - paint cracked etc.
front A frames are not damaged
Cooling fan starts after warming up?
Tracks straight with little pull to either side
Handelbars are not bent
Brake, throttle mounted solid
Brake foot peddle is solid
Brakes are smooth and solid - not mushy
look at the bottom, is the frame worn dented or crushed from bottoming out on rocks?
Is the aircleaner and air compartment spotless?
do you see antifreeze in the bottle?
Is the oil clean and full? Ask to see the oil and service records.
When were the valves last adjusted?
Tires - 1000 miles and they should still be like new - or 80%
Look for leaking front hubs - there will be oil on the inside of the wheel.
Look at the frame tubes under the foot rests and in the back - are they plugged with mud or clean?
Steering tight?
______________________________
Farmr wrote -
All that I can think of to add would be grab each wheel and try and wiggle it. Try and wiggle the top in and out, as well as side-to-side play. On the Sportsmans, I recommend doing it on all 4 wheels. This is easiest to do with the machine jacked up off the ground. If you feel looseness, have a buddy wiggle while you look. The seller will probably do this for you if they are the honest sort. Don't sweat tie rod ends, they are known to work loose, are easy to replace, and the new replacement ones are far better than the older ones. Worry a little about looseness in the A-arms, both front and rear, where they attatch to the frame. Not a big deal, but if the machine was greased regularly, it should go quite a ways before any looseness shows (I had 5000 miles before I notied ANY looseness at all in the front end of my Xplorer. I have 7200 and it is still just barely wiggles. Keep in mind I grease mine VERY religiously, with the best grease I can find, though.) The bushings are not all that expensive, and aren't that hard to replace, but if you find a little play, it might give you a little more bargaining power.
Worry more about: looseness in a wheel in all directions, which doesn't seem to be coming from loose suspension components. This means bad wheel bearings. The rear ones are less of a worry than the front. In reality, the front bearings should NEVER get loose, if the hub fluid has been maintained properly. The rear bearings do wear out (they don't run in oil, and there is no way to add grease to them, when the grease dries out, they need replacing). As long as there is no 'clunk' a little looseness in the rear wheels is OK, just keep in mind you will need new bearings, and the sooner the better.
Lastly, check the weephole at the water pump seal. This is a tiny little hole drilled in the casting, below the water pump, pointing straight down. Just follow the hoses from the radiator, and you will be able to figure where the water pump is. One hose will come out of the top of the engine, the other down lower. It is right where the lower hose attatches to the engine. These go about forever on a trail machine, and wear out quickly in one buried frequently in gooey mud. Sometimes, it is just a little damp, but that is the start of a leak.
Good luck,
Farmr
#5
I work at Commscope & proabably wont be able to run it by fun cycles, This guy lives on lake Norman in irdell co. side, All im interseted in
is something that will run slow & crawl around the woods & hills. Hes got teenagers so thats the only thing Im worried about - as
condition goes. Thanks Chuck
is something that will run slow & crawl around the woods & hills. Hes got teenagers so thats the only thing Im worried about - as
condition goes. Thanks Chuck
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