Hey,

alright, on the '97 Warrior i just bought, it doesn't currenly have any rear brakes on it. i've got pads to install. the rotor is also off, and warped, so i'm going to order a new one tonight. the caliper appears to be a rebuilt unit (maybe?). it's got fresh black paint on it, but the bolts are kinda rusty.

i haven't really worked on brakes before so bear with me. i see how the brake pads mount. but in the brake pads package there are two metal plates that appear to mount to the back on the pads, and two metal clips like the one in the bottom of the caliper. the plates i understand, but do i need to use the two clips? if so, where do they go?

i used a c-clamp to press the piston back into the caliper.

the mounting bracket on the caliper is supposed to float side-to-side to keep even pressure on the rotor, correct?? well the caliper i have seems to be stuck. (i've also got an old caliper too, and the bracket floats on it, but the piston is stuck). what can i do to get the bracket unstuck? tapping with a hammer didn't do anything. so before i start pounding on it, i'm open to suggestions.

also, i can understand how the piston moving forward would press the pads against the rotor. but when i release the brake lever, the piston should move backwards correct? (releasing the pad pressure against the rotor). but what causes the pad to move backward since it doesn't appear to be attached to the piston?

hopefully i've explained my questions clearly. if you can reply with a pic of the brake caliper set up properly that would be awesome.

thanks,
bigmac

PS: on the bleeder valve, it looks like a grease zerk minus the ball. is there supposed to be a ball in there or no? if not, how do you open/close the bleeder valve?

 

Since you are purchasing a new caliper, you will not have to worry about pads right away. The new Calipers come with pads installed. once installed on the machine the caliper will not move its self. But since you are getting a new one, there is no reason to worry about all of those old clips and such. Just stick on your new assembly and attach with bolts. Attach the brake line and fill the res. with fluid.

To bleed the brakes you must attach a small hose to the bleeder and unscrew it some to get rid of the air in the system.

Ok, you have figured out how the pad is pressed onto the rotor via the piston. When you release the brake the piston is pulled back into the calliper from the decreasing pressure and increasing volume. The pad is pushed agianst the piston via a spring... beware, do nat damage this spring when installing new pads.... they are NOT sold individualy.

 

Hey,

i'm not ordering a new caliper, i'm ordering a new rotor.

this spring that pushed the pad against the piston . . . what does it look like and where is it located?

thanks,
bigmac

 

Hey,

anybody? i messed with the caliper again today, and finally got the mounting bracket to float side-to-side, though rather hesitantly. but maybe the force of the brakes is what makes it center itself on the rotor.

the pads to rotor tolerances seem to be very close. almost as if the pads just barely graze the rotor when not under pressure. does that cause excessive wear or heat?

thanks,
bigmac

 

Since you have new pads, they WILL have little to no tolerances. After an hour or so of riding, it should be better with some what of a gap present. The caliper may not float side to side very easily because there is little or no grease in the bolt assembly. Be sure the bolts that allow the calliper to slide (ones with the rubber gramets) are greased with HIGH TEMPERATURE grease. I am not sure on your model, but my 87 rotor will also move side to side as the pads wear down more. Might wanna check that out.

The spring is located at the top of the piston assembly, or at the top of the pad.

MY suggestion to you is: After you install the new Rotor assemble the brake with new pads and bleed the system, go for a test ride. Mash on the brakes a few times and ride them some. Some sure stopping should now be happening.

After a few rides, use the back of your had to see if there is any heat comming off the pads. There should not be too much.

Buy a 25 dollar repair manual. This will make your life much easier in undersatnding how to work on your machine.

 

Hey,

thanks for the tip about greasing the bolts that do the floating.

and yea, that repair manuel is sounding pretty good right now. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

btw: i see you're a Jeeper! very nice. i've got an XJ (my baby). don't supposed you are a JU.com member are you?

thanks,
bigmac

 

That is why this forum is here, to help out people. Trust me, a repair manual will help you out a lot with your warrior.

Yes, i am a jeeper, but i stay at the off-road.com SWB forum. and i do like the modfied XJ's!

 

Use a silicon based lube on the slides for the caliper, if you use a petrolium based lube al the rubber will swell up and lock it solid.

 

Hey,

how easily should the caliper slide? right now it requires a hammer.

like every other bolt on this quad, the slider bolts are locked up super-duper tight. i don't know what the last guy was thinking!

later,
bigmac

 

You might want to use some Sand paper on those slide bolts... if that does not help i would say you are goin to need a new caliper. Soulds as iff the P.O. let her heat up real good and everything started to seize together.

I do second the silicoln use of lube.