brake limitied slip differentiel
#2
Yes, braking the spinning wheel only with a differential-equipped quad will bias torque to the wheel with traction.
In fact, differential braking appears the technique used by "traction control" systems in automobiles, an automatic process managed by the ABS on-board computer.
Further, some tractors provide the capability for manually-applied individual drive wheel braking, for the same purpose (bias power to the wheel with traction).
HOWEVER: Beware if you consider applying this technique to a quad. Automobile traction control systems employ fast-acting computers whose ability sensing wheel slip and response with partial pulse braking remains incredibly faster than the most skilled rider's reflexes; a tractor moves slowly, without critical sense-and-respond time, so manual differential braking works o.k. with tractors. Now, with a quad, you have the worst of both worlds--a machine capable of relatively fast movement, and a slow sense-and-respond manual differential braking system. Braking one wheel with traction at speed can result in loss of control of the vehicle, with possibly disastrous consequences. How do you insure you don't mistakenly brake one front wheel at speed?
We're talking risk here; the manufacturers' product liability nightmare (my assumption, that's why no quad comes with differential braking from the factory).
Instead of splitting the brakes, one might:
1) Minimize travel on risky routes, unless buddies and pull-straps travel with you.
2) Feather the front brakes when one wheel slips (I've never had much success with this technique).
3) Install a winch or carry a comealong (for me, a winch with proper recovery accessories, including a ****** block, has saved my bacon many times).
4) Install a locker (effectively used by the mud runners).
Unavailable for front-differentialed quads so far, automatic lockers (like Detroit Lockers), command lockers, EXCEPT for a couple of Suzukis with manually-locking front ends (like ARB Air Lockers), or computer-managed traction-control systems. Some day, perhaps.
Your choice. If you decide on splitting your front brakes, beware (especially with riders unfamiliar with the characteristics of your machine) and be careful.
Tree Farmer
In fact, differential braking appears the technique used by "traction control" systems in automobiles, an automatic process managed by the ABS on-board computer.
Further, some tractors provide the capability for manually-applied individual drive wheel braking, for the same purpose (bias power to the wheel with traction).
HOWEVER: Beware if you consider applying this technique to a quad. Automobile traction control systems employ fast-acting computers whose ability sensing wheel slip and response with partial pulse braking remains incredibly faster than the most skilled rider's reflexes; a tractor moves slowly, without critical sense-and-respond time, so manual differential braking works o.k. with tractors. Now, with a quad, you have the worst of both worlds--a machine capable of relatively fast movement, and a slow sense-and-respond manual differential braking system. Braking one wheel with traction at speed can result in loss of control of the vehicle, with possibly disastrous consequences. How do you insure you don't mistakenly brake one front wheel at speed?
We're talking risk here; the manufacturers' product liability nightmare (my assumption, that's why no quad comes with differential braking from the factory).
Instead of splitting the brakes, one might:
1) Minimize travel on risky routes, unless buddies and pull-straps travel with you.
2) Feather the front brakes when one wheel slips (I've never had much success with this technique).
3) Install a winch or carry a comealong (for me, a winch with proper recovery accessories, including a ****** block, has saved my bacon many times).
4) Install a locker (effectively used by the mud runners).
Unavailable for front-differentialed quads so far, automatic lockers (like Detroit Lockers), command lockers, EXCEPT for a couple of Suzukis with manually-locking front ends (like ARB Air Lockers), or computer-managed traction-control systems. Some day, perhaps.
Your choice. If you decide on splitting your front brakes, beware (especially with riders unfamiliar with the characteristics of your machine) and be careful.
Tree Farmer
#3
although Tree has pretty much summed it all up.... As I was reading the original post, I just have several thoughts go thru the vast empty spot I like to refer to as my brain....
One, How many machines (seeing that this is in a Yamaha Thread) actually have good working brakes when submerged in mud/water?
Or what if you have one front wheel up, lay on the gas, and that brake DOES work and you jamb it to force the "drive" to the other wheel?.. Broken CV Joints?..(Something will eventually HAVE to give.. maybe not the first time.. but it will)
Or it starts to work, but then overpowers the brake on the no traction side?.. With oversized tires such as Vampires, Tri-Claws, Outlaws.. If you have one of those firmly planted in the other rut, as soon as you DO get the power going there, its gonna go right back and overpower your brake..
Last, I have the mental image of letting a buddy take it for a test drive, and him just pulling what he thinks is the front brake lever... and suddenly he takes a HARD right turn, flips your machine ontop of him.. Busting HIM and the Machine all to crap.. then sueing you for knowingly putting him on a unsafe machine!!..
I'd just say that if you want all four, buy a Polaris, Suzuki, or get a LOCKER...
One, How many machines (seeing that this is in a Yamaha Thread) actually have good working brakes when submerged in mud/water?
Or what if you have one front wheel up, lay on the gas, and that brake DOES work and you jamb it to force the "drive" to the other wheel?.. Broken CV Joints?..(Something will eventually HAVE to give.. maybe not the first time.. but it will)
Or it starts to work, but then overpowers the brake on the no traction side?.. With oversized tires such as Vampires, Tri-Claws, Outlaws.. If you have one of those firmly planted in the other rut, as soon as you DO get the power going there, its gonna go right back and overpower your brake..
Last, I have the mental image of letting a buddy take it for a test drive, and him just pulling what he thinks is the front brake lever... and suddenly he takes a HARD right turn, flips your machine ontop of him.. Busting HIM and the Machine all to crap.. then sueing you for knowingly putting him on a unsafe machine!!..
I'd just say that if you want all four, buy a Polaris, Suzuki, or get a LOCKER...
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Jeff Roper
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
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Feb 1, 2022 11:48 AM
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