more power
#1
more power
everything is stock at this point but i am looking to get a
set of 27inch mud lite tires and am wondering how to get more
power i was told a K&N power pack is hard on the engine because
it inhales alot more dirt.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
500i(auto)2002
2500pound Warn winch
rear seat foot pegs
rest is all stock!!!!
set of 27inch mud lite tires and am wondering how to get more
power i was told a K&N power pack is hard on the engine because
it inhales alot more dirt.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
500i(auto)2002
2500pound Warn winch
rear seat foot pegs
rest is all stock!!!!
#5
more power
Do your muffler mod and go with a dyno jet and K&N filter.
Take off the stock muff, and with a grinder cutt both end caps off." MARK WITH A BLACK MARKER THE CORRECT POSISTION OF THE HEADER PIPE. THE END WITH THE 4 INCH PIPE GOING BACK TOWARD THE ENGINE HEAD" "DO THIS SO IT WILL MOUNT BACK UP RIGHT"
WHEN YOU CUT THE END CAP OFF THAT HAS THE EXHAUST SPOUT BE VERY VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GO TO DEEP. JUST CUTT UNTILL YOU SEE PACKING,LITTLE FIBERGLASS BLACK PACKING.
WHEN YOU HAE BOTH CAPS OFF, THE END WITH THE HEADER PIPE WILL HAVE TACK WELDS HOLDING THE BIG BLACK TUBE IN PLACE. USE A PUNCH AND A WIZARD TO GRIND A PUNCH THIS OUT. YOU WILL NOTICE THE TUBE WILL ONLY SLIDE OUT ONE WAY. USE A 2X4 AND HAMMER TO KNOCK THE TUBE OUT.
ONCE OUT YOU WILL SEE ONE END HAS 3 HOLES AND ONE END HAS 1 BIG HOLE, LOOK ON THE TOP OF THE TUBE AND YOU WILL SEE LITTLE ROUND SPOT WELDS THAT HOLD THE BAFFELES IN PLACE. CUT ON THE INSIDE OF THE LAST SPOT WELD FROM THE RIGHT. CUTT IT WITH A GRINDER. NOW ONCE CUTT YOU WILL HAVE TWO TUBES THAT CONTAIN 2 BAFFELS AND ONE WITH 3. THE TUBE THAT HAS ONLY 1 SPOT WELD WILL HAVE 2 AND THE OTHER 3. YOU CAN USE EITHER ONE, I USED THE ONE WITH 3. YOU SHOULD END UP WITH A TUBE THAT HAS A FAN LOOKING BAFFLE. PUT THAT END IN AND TACK WELD IT IN THE SAME SPOT WHERE YOU PUCHED OUT THE TACK WELDS. IN OTHER WORDS IT WILL BE THE FAN LOOKING THINGY IS THE FIRST THING THE EXHAUST HITS. ONCE TACK WELDED IN GO AHEAD AND WELD THE END CAP BACK ON THAT HAS YOUR HEAD PIPE ON IT. THEN TAKE A TORCH OR ANYTHING THAT WILL CUTT OFF THE EXISTING EXHAUST SPOT RUNNING UP INTO YOUR ACTUAL PIPE. THIS ALLOWS WATER AND MUD TO ESCAPE AND NOT STAY IN THERE AND CAKE UP LIKE MY STOCK PIPE WAS. THEN JUST WELD YOU OTHER CAP IN AND YOUR DONE!
OH YEA YOU MAY HAVE TO CUTT OFF WITH A GRINDER THE SPOUT ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE PIPE TO BEABLE TO FULLY CUTT AROUND THE CAP. ITS NO BIGGY JUST WELD IT BACK ON.
GO TO MY PICTURES TO SEE HOW I DID THE CUTTING AND SUCH
Take off the stock muff, and with a grinder cutt both end caps off." MARK WITH A BLACK MARKER THE CORRECT POSISTION OF THE HEADER PIPE. THE END WITH THE 4 INCH PIPE GOING BACK TOWARD THE ENGINE HEAD" "DO THIS SO IT WILL MOUNT BACK UP RIGHT"
WHEN YOU CUT THE END CAP OFF THAT HAS THE EXHAUST SPOUT BE VERY VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GO TO DEEP. JUST CUTT UNTILL YOU SEE PACKING,LITTLE FIBERGLASS BLACK PACKING.
WHEN YOU HAE BOTH CAPS OFF, THE END WITH THE HEADER PIPE WILL HAVE TACK WELDS HOLDING THE BIG BLACK TUBE IN PLACE. USE A PUNCH AND A WIZARD TO GRIND A PUNCH THIS OUT. YOU WILL NOTICE THE TUBE WILL ONLY SLIDE OUT ONE WAY. USE A 2X4 AND HAMMER TO KNOCK THE TUBE OUT.
ONCE OUT YOU WILL SEE ONE END HAS 3 HOLES AND ONE END HAS 1 BIG HOLE, LOOK ON THE TOP OF THE TUBE AND YOU WILL SEE LITTLE ROUND SPOT WELDS THAT HOLD THE BAFFELES IN PLACE. CUT ON THE INSIDE OF THE LAST SPOT WELD FROM THE RIGHT. CUTT IT WITH A GRINDER. NOW ONCE CUTT YOU WILL HAVE TWO TUBES THAT CONTAIN 2 BAFFELS AND ONE WITH 3. THE TUBE THAT HAS ONLY 1 SPOT WELD WILL HAVE 2 AND THE OTHER 3. YOU CAN USE EITHER ONE, I USED THE ONE WITH 3. YOU SHOULD END UP WITH A TUBE THAT HAS A FAN LOOKING BAFFLE. PUT THAT END IN AND TACK WELD IT IN THE SAME SPOT WHERE YOU PUCHED OUT THE TACK WELDS. IN OTHER WORDS IT WILL BE THE FAN LOOKING THINGY IS THE FIRST THING THE EXHAUST HITS. ONCE TACK WELDED IN GO AHEAD AND WELD THE END CAP BACK ON THAT HAS YOUR HEAD PIPE ON IT. THEN TAKE A TORCH OR ANYTHING THAT WILL CUTT OFF THE EXISTING EXHAUST SPOT RUNNING UP INTO YOUR ACTUAL PIPE. THIS ALLOWS WATER AND MUD TO ESCAPE AND NOT STAY IN THERE AND CAKE UP LIKE MY STOCK PIPE WAS. THEN JUST WELD YOU OTHER CAP IN AND YOUR DONE!
OH YEA YOU MAY HAVE TO CUTT OFF WITH A GRINDER THE SPOUT ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE PIPE TO BEABLE TO FULLY CUTT AROUND THE CAP. ITS NO BIGGY JUST WELD IT BACK ON.
GO TO MY PICTURES TO SEE HOW I DID THE CUTTING AND SUCH
#7
more power
No i did not have to rejet when i did the muffler mod. it was real black but i dont think i had the jet kit at the time yet. But Yes even with the baffles out i could have used a lower jet.
With my super trapp the main is 148
with my stock mod pipe it is a 146. needle set on 3 for both.
AND YES YOU CAN TELL A BIG DIFFERENCE
With my super trapp the main is 148
with my stock mod pipe it is a 146. needle set on 3 for both.
AND YES YOU CAN TELL A BIG DIFFERENCE
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#9
more power
A pretty noticeable difference in the super trapp and stock. especially after the rejet process. the pipe gives it a mean sound. very intemidating. i like it. I noticed an increase in the throttle response and mid range. It does not have to build up. You push the throttle the power is there
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