wow that was quick i love those guys
OK here is the gap spec

Intake .003...not .025

exhaust .008

use a feeler gauge, you can get one at any auto parts store 4 or 5 bucks

 

adjust the lash with the tapet cam to achieve and accurate level turn

 

CatKrazy looks like your Mr. goodwrench.

The easiest machine to adjust the valves on is the little Hondas 50's,70's and 90's

ChetRacer[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

hehe oops. sorry.

no hard feelings, i do get my wires crossed from time to time.

speaking of which DISREGARd THE COMMENT ON THE PUSH ROD. They are not hydrolic nor do they have a push rod...sorry I was remembering adjusting my boat,Its all done with the tapet..see its all comming back

 

ONE LAST THING

I remember now that i took off the head cap and i didnt have to..Just after you remove the tank you can remove the two small inspection caps on the front and oft of the cylinder.There you can see the rocker on the valve.If you are looking from the right side of the bike the left valve will be the exhaust and the right valve will be the intake. on the rocker arm there is a nut,lossen the nut and then you will see a screw. that is your tapet cam,make your adjustments there tightening the scew or lossening a little at a time and the same place on the other valve,adjust them to the .003 and .008 using a feeler gauge. The lobes on the cam shaft should be pointing down.
A couple of ways to know if the valves need adjust is
#1 The bike smokes
#2 The bike will not start or Hit.
#3 The bike makes a loud ticking noise comming from the head/valve area.

 

CatKrazy,

Don't you have to get the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC), first?

 

Yes