I have a 2004 Arctic cat 500 automatic.
The back brakes ( foot pedal one ) were worn, I replaced the pads, however --- I cannot get the line bleed. Can't get fluid to go through the line.
Guy at the shop said they were a pain in the butt to bleed.
Anyone have an easy solution?

Thanks : )

 

If all you did was change the pads, wny are you having to bleed them? That's the nice part about disc brakes is not having to bleed them after pad changes. Oh yeah, welcome to the nut house.

 

well, I guess that's the main problem -- somehow the pressure was lost. The pedal would go down with no pressure. Don't see any leaks anywhere.
I had new Mudlites put on the other day, the shopguy never had time to fix the brakes up. He said he had the prob with a bike not long ago and it took quiet awhile to prime them.

 

I'm buying a 2005 auxiliary brake system. Looks as if it should bold on. Lots of people tolm the 2004 master cyl was junk.

 

did they change the foot brake I thought it was on a cable, the hand brake is the only one that you can bleed

 

On at least the 2004 400 and up the foot brake is hydraulic and there is a bleeder on the foot brake caliper. If nothing is going thru the brake line to the caliper, one of two conditions exist; 1=No fluid in the either the master cylinder, line, caliper or all three or 2=the master cylinder is bad. But changing pads only requires you to force the piston back into the caliper and R&R the pads and then pump the brake a couple of times. You should not have to bleed the system. If you are doing it any other way you are doing it wrong.

 

here's the deal Bear

my brake pedal started pushing down with no pressure. I took my bike in for new tires last week. The guy at the shop said the brake pads were worn out. He then took the caliper apart, replaced the pads and for some reason there is no pressure. The fluid won't go through the line. He didn't have time to look at it. It was almost closing. Since I live an hour away, I brought my bike home, figured I'd fix it myself.
After opening the bleed screw and pumping and pumping on the pedal with no results, I opened the 2 elm set screws which drains the fluid from the master cylinder, I then filled it back up -- and pumped and pumped the pedal --- still no pressure.
Guy at the shop said the master has a small plunger in it and they were a pain to get primed.

I guess I'll have to take it back and see what he can do.

 

First off, disc brakes self adjust (as long as there is fluid in the reservoir, so the pads can not cause your problem. Changing the pads fixed the worn pad problem, but not your real problem.

You are aware that you have to close the bleed valve before you let the brake pedal back up. If you don't you just move the air bubble in the system back and forth. To prime the master cylinder, fill the reservior over full. Pull the line off the caliper and push down on the pedal, hold it and put a thumb and finger over the two open sides of the caliper fitting. Let the pedal up, now repeat until you get fluid at the fitting. Be careful to not let the reservior run out of fluid. If it won't pump fluid after twenty pumps the master cylinder is bad and needs replacement.

If it works, don't let all the fluid run out of the brake hose. Either keep your fingers on it or get the fitting above the master cylinder. Reinstall the fitting on the caliper, loosing as little fluid as posible. Now bleed the caliper the same way, only using the bleed valve instead of your fingers. Again, make sure the reservior doesn't go dry or you are defeating your purpose.

I don't think much of your dealer's mechanic, size of the cylinder is not issue, but how you do the priming and bleeding.

 

thanks a million Bear ---- I'll give what you said a try tommorow.

 

tried again today bear with no results. Must be a bad master : (