I have drained and replaced the oil. It took a while to start and when it did it ran OK for a while, when I first put it in gear it bogged down really bad but didnt stall. I am going to change the oil atleast 2 more times. Are there any additives I can put in the oil to help pull the water out or does it require breaking the motor down. It is running fine but the new oil turned milky pretty quick.
Any help is appreciated

05 650 V2
2500lb Warn winch
stock every thing else

 

JL Wood use some Sea Foam it has a drying agent in it , and it's a great product for cleaning the fuel system as well ; i would add it to the oil and the fuel tank !

You can get the Sea Foam from most any Auto Parts Stores for $6.99 + tax , get a can and check it out it has a money back Guarantee it's the best fuel and oil additive i've ever used ; i highly reccomend this product !

Good luck getting your quad going again , i had to do this back in the early 90's to my cousins 89' Suzuki LT4WD after we swamped it in a creek , and back then i din't know about the Sea Foam i used kerosine to the oil to clean out the crankcase ; it worked good for the Suzuki and i put some Acetone to dry out the water !

On the Acetone i poured it through the crankcase with the drain plug in , and i turned over the engine without starting it up ; then i drained the Acetone and changed the engine oil 3 time's with the oil filter removed then once more with a new filter !

Either way you go once you get your 650 V2 flushed out i would add some Sea Foam in the fuel tank and the crankcase oil , there's complete instructions on the can for mixing ratio's ; and Sea Foam has been on the market since 1942 with the money back Garantee so it's has to be good to stay on the market this long !......

 

Glad to hear you got the 650 running, keep in mind though that your engine ingested water, so anything that occurs in the near future may be result from this.

Like Williebee said, Sea Foam is some great stuff - we've been using it for several years, and wish we'd have know about it a long time before we found out about it. Our local Walmart started carrying it a short while ago - about $5.49 a can vs. the usual $6.99 at the parts store.

Dad always uses a mixture of 2/3 engine oil and 1/3 automatic transmission fluid to pick up water out of the oil system - He says that ATF is high in detergent, which adheres to water very well - - he uses straight ATF to flush gearboxes too.
He puts in a new oil filter, flushes the engines (running long enough to warm the engine & oil) with this mixture a couple or three times (depending on how "pink" the draining oil comes out - water & red ATF = "pink" ), then runs 1 more round of cheap motor oil, before installing the final filter and regular engine oil.

 

Ujoint there is nothing that will dry out water better than Acetone , i used Acetone for over 20 yrs.before i closed my shop in 1997 to dry out gas tank's ; and small engine part's after i removed them from the Chem Dip i would wash out the part's with water then dunk them in Acetone and within second's the part's would air dry !

I've never found any drying agent that would drive out water as fast as Acetone , and you can get it at walmart kmart or any hard ware store for around $4 or $5 a gallon ; the 89' Suzuki Lt4WD 250 Quad Runner that i sank in the creek while riding double is still running great i got all the water out of it before i ever started the engine up !

I didn't know about the Sea Foam back then i used kerosine to wash out the engine crankcase with the oil filter removed , and poured the crankcase full of kerosine ; then i removed the spark plug and poured kerosine into the cyclinder to make sure i got all the water out !

But the main thing is not to start up an engine untill you have all the water out , once i drained the kerosine i used the Acetone to flush and dry out all of the kerosine and any water that the kerosine missed ; and left the plug's out to air dry any remaining water !

After the engine was dried out i changed the oil 3 time , 2 without the oil filter ; and 1 with the new filter when i fired the engine up it smoked for 1 to 3 minute's and cleared up even though i thought it would smoke longer the Acetone not only got the water out it also removed the kerosine residue out of the engine !

This is still the best way to remove water from an engine , but the Sea Foam will remove water from engine oil and fuel in small amount's the Suzuki was full of water in every part of the quad ; fuel tank , engine , air box everything you name it and there was water !.......

 

i just swamped my 06 400 last weekend and it took 10 quarts of oil to flush the water out. now im in the middle of adding snorkels to make sure this problem doesnt happen again.

 

Thanks for the advice with Seafoam. A buddy at work told me to put a little ISO Heet in the oil and that would help pull the water out with the oil. I changed the oil again tonite and it came out a grey color but I could see thru it and it didnt bead up when it hit the drain pan. I will look at getting the seafoam additive and when its dry I plan on running synthetic for the rest of the time. Can you buy the oil filter anywhere else besides a dealer and off the web cheaper, especially with having to change it so often.

2005 650V2
2500lbs Warn Winch

2005 Yamaha Kodiak 400
3000lbs CMT Winch

 

oops guess i mentioned swamping my atv in your other post. my brain is gone. lol bring your filter to the autoparts store and see what will work. i did and i found a fram that fit and it was only $4. seafoam is a great addative for fuel use it regularly. i do and my carbs are as clean as new. ive never had a carb issue. i swear by the stuff. you should buy a cheap oil that is safe for your atv and just keep flushing and flushing it until its clean. the longer the moisture sits in there the worse it will be on your motor.

 

The only problem I see with using straight Acetone is that, although Acetone is undoubtedly the best for removing water - it is also considered to be a "heavy duty" degreaser. By putting straight Acetone into an internal combustion engine, with no other lubricating substance, you are virtually removing all the oils in the engine, especially if someone circulates it through the oil system - an engine that originally was put together with an assembly lube to prevent an initial "dry" startup.

I feel there are less potentially harmful methods of removing water from an engine.

BTW - Sea Foam consists of Pale Oil (lubricating), Naphtha (petroleum distillates - extremely volitable), and Iso-Propyl Alcohol (drying agent - ie HEET) - - Sea Foam web site, MSDS sheet.

 

Well Ujoint i forgot to menion the oil lube i do to the engine before starting the engine up for the first time , i poured oil into the spark plug hole and the valve access cap's on the 89'Suzuki LT4WD 250 Quad Runner then i turned the engine over to prelube the top end before start up ; that's why it smoked because of the oil i put in the spark plug hole/cyclinder !

I never start an engine untill every drop of water is flushed out , and always prelube topend before a startup ; i've done this for over 20 yrs. in the Small Engine Service And Repair Industry and i'v never hurt an engine using Actone or kerosine to flush an engine !

But thanks for reminding me about the prelubing i just forgot to put it in the previous replies , like i stated before i never start an engine untill all the water is flushed out ; this is very important !

JL if your engine oil is grey it still has water in the oil , as for the oil filter Napa Auto Parts has a cross reference for the oil filters ; i would use Napa , Wix , Puralator , or STP filter !

I use to run a Fram filter in all my cars and trucks , untill i had one come apart on my 87' Chevy S10 Tahoe 2 WD pickup ; lucky thing i got out of the truck after starting the engine when the filter came apart it dumped the oil the Fram oil filters are bonded together with epoxy/glue !

I get my oil filters from my Dealer she carries an after market oil filter for $4.95 ea. , that's less than a good Automotive oil filter where i live ; so i just buy from this Dealer where i bought my quad and as for the Synthetic oil i can't see paying $8.00 a quart for oil i'm going to change after 300 mile's of extreme dust conditions we're having here in Ga. !

That's a different story when it come's to an Automobile that you are going to drive on city , county and state paved road's where you can go 7500 mile's between change's ; i put 20 mile's riding a 1/4 mile oval track went home pulled the air filter washed it out in hot soapy water and the water in the pan was filty !

I hate to think about that dirt going into my intake into the combustion chamber , then on through the bottom into the engine oil ; i don't even want to think of that i rode my first quad a 1986 Honda TRX350 Foreman 4x4 with just over 20 hrs. on it from Jan 1989 to Nov. 2005 in some of the worsh condition's you can get and it was still running as good as the day i bought it !

I sold it to my brother in Nov. 2005 and i told him to change the oil and oil filter at least every 10 hours , and clean the air filter every 5 hour's even more last summer ; my brother took some photo's of Carters Lake this past summer of 2007 it was so low the Army Corp Engineers had to close it to boat traffic i haven't seen this Lake this low in over 35 yrs. and we're still under a outdoors watering ban carried over from last year !

When my brother sent the photo's to me i didn't know it was Carters Lake untill i saw the pic of the Dam , it looked like a creek instead of a lake ; i saw this Lake this low only once since it was impounded in the late 50's and i was shocked to see it this low again !

The concrete boat ramp's went 85 ft under water when it was full and the ramp's were high and dry , you had to go another 1000 yrds. to get to the water ; my cousin has a large pontoon boat moored there last summer when they went for a day on the Lake they couldn't find the pontoon boat the Corp of Engineers had moved all the boat's and were told the Lake was closed to Boating for the remainder of the year !

I hope the weather forcasters are wrong and we get enough rain to replenish all the lake's and river's here in North Ga. , if not we'll be a dust bowl and this type condition's are the worst for ATVing ; i'll still ride but i may have to carry an extra air filter on every ride it's that bad here !..........

 

No way. Use Amsoil. Best oil and filter you can get. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

+1 on the frams being junk.

Make sure you replace the filter on you oil changes, as its also holding water.