Arctic Cat Discussions about Arctic Cat ATVs.

1997 Bearcat

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 15, 2008 | 09:22 AM
  #1  
rdclifton's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Default 1997 Bearcat

I recently acquired a 1997 Bearcat 2X4 with 500 miles on it. It cranks, idles, and runs great when <u>cold</u>. After riding for 10-30 (depending on outside temperature) it begins missing, will not idle, and dies. It will not start until it has "cooled down". I don't believe the fan is running after it gets warm. (Don't know how long it should take for the fan to start operating.) I have tested the fan motor and it operates when the Fan Temperature Switch wires are "jumped together".

When I test the Temperature Light Voltage by grounding the "violet" wire from the <u>water</u> temperature switch, connecting the red test leader to the red/black wire from the <u>fan</u> temperature switch and black test lead to the grounded violet wire from the water temperature switch I do not get a voltage reading as the manual says I should, but the temperature light does come on. Am I not making the connections correctly?

All other test in the manual are positive.

Questions:

Is overheating likely causing the problem? If it is overheating, I don't think I've ran it enough to do any damage. It cranks and runs to good when cold. If overheating is not the problem[img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img], does anyone have any suggestions?

Are there any problems that might be created if I connect the two fan temperature switch wires together bypassing the switch and causing the fan to run when the key is in the on position?

How can I make sure the temperature light comes on if the engine overheats? Does anyone know of an aftermarket guage and sending unit that would work?
 
Reply
Old Dec 15, 2008 | 08:18 PM
  #2  
cherokee99's Avatar
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 0
From: centrail IL
Default 1997 Bearcat

my very best advice is, i dont think its your cooling system. if it warms up, 10-20mins of running then dies, its more likely a common AC problem. from about 02 and prior alot of AC models have thet very same problem; run til its warm then acts like its not getting gas and will miss and sputter out. not to be restarted until it cools down.

most common causes are in order that i have seen them:
1. regulator/rectifier is not working properly
2. coil/cdi warms up and misses, bad coil or cdi
3. least likely in your case, burnt exhaust valve. exhaust valve warms up and causes the motor to slow down until dead.

i would check the first 2 reasons before tearing apart your engine. it is prevelent on the older AC's. my AC dose the same thing, warms and dies, but IK its a burnt valve [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] hope its an easy fix, and good luck
 
Reply
Old Dec 16, 2008 | 04:01 PM
  #3  
swampyjunior's Avatar
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 0
From: Alaska
Default 1997 Bearcat

I agree with Cherokee99, I think your problem is either electrical of fuel related not temperature. My machine will run hot enough to singe the hair on your leg if you wear shorts and the fan won't turn on and the temp light will not turn on either.

You can hard wire a switch to the fan to turn it on manually but you have to remember to turn it on when it gets hot and off when going into deep water or it can damage the fan or stuff.

I would begin by checking that the vent tubes on the tank and carb are not plugged or pinched. You may also want to check the color of the spark plug. It should be a tan color. If black and carboned up it is running rich, very light tan or white means it is leaning itself out. These are easy fixes and cost $0 just the time to check out.

Now if all the hoses and the plug looks good then I would do a few tests (from the sercive manual) on the charging system, Rectifier, CDI. If you take it to a deaeler they will not spend time checking components. They will more than likely install a new Regulator ($200) and if it still does it a new CDI ($350) and then if the problem still occurs a new coil and possible a new stator ($500 total). To them it is easier to replace them than test them. PLUS you cannot return them once they are used.


I would not expect it to be a burnt valve because that can make it difficult to start.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2quiker
Yamaha
11
Mar 22, 2022 08:36 PM
lgardner61980
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
4
Sep 20, 2015 01:32 PM
robert301972robert
Polaris
29
Aug 30, 2015 11:34 AM
Peter_
Yamaha
2
Jul 18, 2015 07:06 AM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:23 AM.