1999 ACat 300 4x4 possible valve seal problem
#1
#2
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If the valve inspection/adjusting port you are referring to is the one that you have to take the 2 screws off the cap and remove it to adjust the valve clearance then yes there should be oil present. After you remove the 2 screws the cap on the cap it should have a small rubber oil seal in a groove in the cap. If you look into the port you should see the valve springs? These need oil to keep from wearing out. When you take the cap off to inspect or adjust the valve tappets some oil running out is normal.
If you run the engine at an idle with the cap removedfrom either the intake or exhaust ports a whole bunch of oil will splatter out.
SJ
If you run the engine at an idle with the cap removedfrom either the intake or exhaust ports a whole bunch of oil will splatter out.
SJ
#3
#4
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OK, it is supposed to have oil in there so there is nothing to worry about. The service manual calls the cap a tappet cover and the screws cap screws. There is also a detailed procedure with pictures for checking the valve tappet clearance using a feeler gauge in the service manual. Might want to see if you can find one for your machine.
SJ
SJ
#5
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thank you very much now i know whew! i was a bit worried for awhile because this question came as a result of having to drain all of my engine oil after the needle valve in the carb got stuck open and i noticed that the oil leval window was completly full of gas and oil mixed. I became a little paranoid that maby some other damage had occurred because of the gas possibly ruining the valve seals because a fair amt of oil came out of the lower inspection cover when i removed it after turning the engine over (3 or 4 Tbs worth)
last nite was the first time i had it running since i fixed the carb and there is no smoke coming from the muffler or other strange sounds but a little idle adjustment is needed before i take it out for a rip.
would i be wise to give it another oil change right away after a test run to be sure all of the resedual gas is gone or would the change i just did be good enough i changed out the oil from the air cooling rad when i drained the crankcase as well.
with cash a little harder to come by these days another oil change and filter is cheaper than valves,rings etc...
I picked up a service manual on ebay on cd/rom from midwest manuals that is where i got inspection cap from
thanks again for taking the time to reply
last nite was the first time i had it running since i fixed the carb and there is no smoke coming from the muffler or other strange sounds but a little idle adjustment is needed before i take it out for a rip.
would i be wise to give it another oil change right away after a test run to be sure all of the resedual gas is gone or would the change i just did be good enough i changed out the oil from the air cooling rad when i drained the crankcase as well.
with cash a little harder to come by these days another oil change and filter is cheaper than valves,rings etc...
I picked up a service manual on ebay on cd/rom from midwest manuals that is where i got inspection cap from
thanks again for taking the time to reply
#6
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The issue with fuel inthe oil comes with not enough lubrication from the diluted oil. This can take the bearings out of the lower end and since on the top end you have a steel cam riding on an aluminum bearing surface it can hammer that as well. It all depends on how much you ran the engine (if at all) with the fuel in it and exactly how much was mixed in with it.
I have seen the carnkcase full enough that the engine would not turn over! Luckily he could not start the engine. It took several oil changes to get it all cleaned out. You are correct in thinking that spending $30 now for an oil change is better than $1500 on a rebuild.
So if it was mine I would ride it for a short time allowing the engine to get to operating temp. Then change the oild and filter again. This should take care of any residual fuel in the oil cooler and that which is left sitting here and there inside the engine.
Also, I have found it normal to start "hearing things" after something like this happens. Tapping sounds and such that I did not remember from before. It does not mean they are new but possibly that you are just listening more for them. Like being paranoid.
On a side note I think that machine has a fuel shutoff? If it does use it any time you park it over night or trailer it to keep this from happening in the future.
Glad I could help and welcome to the forum. If you are looking for more information of have other questions don'thesitate to ask or search this forum for what you need. Lots of good info here.
SJ
I have seen the carnkcase full enough that the engine would not turn over! Luckily he could not start the engine. It took several oil changes to get it all cleaned out. You are correct in thinking that spending $30 now for an oil change is better than $1500 on a rebuild.
So if it was mine I would ride it for a short time allowing the engine to get to operating temp. Then change the oild and filter again. This should take care of any residual fuel in the oil cooler and that which is left sitting here and there inside the engine.
Also, I have found it normal to start "hearing things" after something like this happens. Tapping sounds and such that I did not remember from before. It does not mean they are new but possibly that you are just listening more for them. Like being paranoid.
On a side note I think that machine has a fuel shutoff? If it does use it any time you park it over night or trailer it to keep this from happening in the future.
Glad I could help and welcome to the forum. If you are looking for more information of have other questions don'thesitate to ask or search this forum for what you need. Lots of good info here.
SJ
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