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getting to front dif seal 05 500 auto question

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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #1  
w8dug's Avatar
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Default getting to front dif seal 05 500 auto question

So no slide hammer to remove the front axles, short of making something what's everyone else used?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 01:21 AM
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Should not need a slide hammer. If after you have removed the tire, brake caliper (support up out of the way with a bungee), castle nut, and outer hub the lower A-arm should drop out of your way. Then if needed unbolt the shock and remove it. This allows you to move the upper A-arm up out of your way with a bunjee. Make sure the fluid is drained from the differential. Now the trick...

Grasp the axle between the outer and inner CV boots with both hands. Push in towards the differential. The CV joint slides in its grove. Place one or both feet on the differential and pull straight out as hard as you can. This may need to be repeated once or twice but the axle should pop out of the front differential exposing the seal. There should be a cir-clip on the end of the axle that comes out of the diff. Some diff fluid may run out so have a rag handy. If you have drained the diff the remaining oil is thick enough that it just kind of drips slowly.

Now take a pair of small vice grips and grasp the metal part of the diff seal. Twist and pull and you should get the seal out with out damaging the lip. Grease up and tap in the new seal and install every thing in reverse order. Make sure you torque that castle nut to 75ft lbs when you put it back on to keep from having slop in the bearings.

To install the axle make sure the cir clip is in its groove, line up the spines, and push in real hard. I like to pull out slightly just to make sure but here again proper torque on the castle nut will help get the cir-clip back where it should go.

There are pictures of these steps in the service manual if yo have one. I can email them if you want them.

Hope this helps.
Swampy
 
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 07:14 AM
  #3  
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Default Thanks Swampy

Thanks man, didn't know it was that easy. I've got it torn down to the point of pulling the shaft out. Just figured I shouldn't just pull on the drive shaft. Isn't there something in the cv joint that can go bad if pulled in the wrong direction? That was my thought anyway.

Hey, any idea where to get the best replacement ball joints for that machine? I've only got 2000 mi on it and the ball joints are already worn out.

Thanks again!!!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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r.wyll's Avatar
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From: Bentley, LA
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try erlandson performance for the ball joints. they have got some really good parts for a/c's

https://www.erlandsonperformance.com
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by swampyjunior
Should not need a slide hammer. If after you have removed the tire, brake caliper (support up out of the way with a bungee), castle nut, and outer hub the lower A-arm should drop out of your way. Then if needed unbolt the shock and remove it. This allows you to move the upper A-arm up out of your way with a bunjee. Make sure the fluid is drained from the differential. Now the trick...

Grasp the axle between the outer and inner CV boots with both hands. Push in towards the differential. The CV joint slides in its grove. Place one or both feet on the differential and pull straight out as hard as you can. This may need to be repeated once or twice but the axle should pop out of the front differential exposing the seal. There should be a cir-clip on the end of the axle that comes out of the diff. Some diff fluid may run out so have a rag handy. If you have drained the diff the remaining oil is thick enough that it just kind of drips slowly.

Now take a pair of small vice grips and grasp the metal part of the diff seal. Twist and pull and you should get the seal out with out damaging the lip. Grease up and tap in the new seal and install every thing in reverse order. Make sure you torque that castle nut to 75ft lbs when you put it back on to keep from having slop in the bearings.

To install the axle make sure the cir clip is in its groove, line up the spines, and push in real hard. I like to pull out slightly just to make sure but here again proper torque on the castle nut will help get the cir-clip back where it should go.

There are pictures of these steps in the service manual if yo have one. I can email them if you want them.

Hope this helps.
Swampy
Pm sent
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #6  
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Just sent you an email Cookie. Hope it helps.

I just noticed I need to replace another seal on my TRV I may take my own photos and post them with a "how to" steps. Won't get to it very soon as my "honey do" list has turned into a novel.

SJ
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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Got it SJ.... Just what the Dr ordered! Thanks again!
 
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